“Remember, there are no mistakes, only lessons. Love yourself, trust your choices, and everything is possible.” - Cherie-Carter Scotts
Ok so here is a bit of an abstract blog that can be applied to all aspects of life I guess, but for me is mainly climbing focussed.
Failure. It's a word that has some big connotations, pretty much exclusively bad ones, in all aspects of life. For example; I didn't get the job, I couldn't climb the route, I didn't match my target time for my marathon, I failed my exam/driving test, I just broke up with my partner, etc, etc. All these are aspects of failure that are encountered in life, and usually looked upon negatively, and can sometimes even illicit negative feelings in the person for varying time periods afterwards.
For me the failures that I focus in on mostly come down to my climbing performance (I haven't applied for any jobs recently, I don't run, I am passing my exams* and am luckily still with my girlfriend) But I often fail in my climbing life... This leads to a lot of self-examination and soul-searching, often keeping me up for hours or distracting me from uni work. Looking back on my UKC log (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=70513), I have failed a lot since 2011 began; Cream, Sai Dancing, Poema de Roca, Yogur de Coca, Pilier Dorada, Stroll On, Bulling-747, just to name a few but I never try and hide my failures and always try to remain honest about them. However, in the past I have been guilty of not being positive or honest with myself about my reasons for failure.
Since reading the Rock Warriors Way my outlook on failure has changed immensely. Whereas before I would blame coldness or whatever now I will try and look at what I did, the choices I made and work out where I went wrong and where I was just unlucky... This I think is a major breakthrough in my climbing, and one I have found has helped already. I went to the Orme this Thursday with Dave and he had a crack at Gritstone Gorrila, despite the freezing wind! After taking 2 lobs on the crux he got it 3rd go ground up. I had to second with the numbest hands ever, and knowing the crux was a stiff layback I was nervous to say the least. However, on getting to it I remembered why I failed to onsight the laybacks on Stroll On, got my feet high and kept the commitment up. I soon found myself holding the good hold at the end of the crux, though at this point I had to rest as I could no longer feel my hands! We quickly bailed round the orme and back to Mayfair wall for my first taste of Upper Pen Trwyn sport climbing. I chose Julio Juvenito, F7a for its sexual crimpyness. Psyched up for the onsight, I was cautious not to misread the sequence. However once I got into the meat of the climbing, coupled with Al Mason's shouts of; "Come on Dunc, Turn it on", I had to start moving quickly and was unceremoniously spat off. Realising the error of my way and that I had to do an unlikely looking boulder problem to gain good holds more direct, I was at the top and on the way down giving Dave the beta. He consequently crushed it... brilliant! Back up, I blasted on, threw the throw, then completely changed my original poor sequence for a more direct one, and it was done. Another F7a in the bag! I have decided that every time I go sport climbing I will try something of F7a or above, as this will be the way to improve and enable me to onsight F6c (and above) trad routes. I then tried to second Mason on King Krank, E5 6b and found out that english 6b is tres hard! With rain drops falling I pulled through the crux and got the gear out before a massive band of rain passed over! Phew!
Now back to revision I am beginning to gain inspiration from routes and people. Rob Greenwood being one of them, he does everything well, is mad for it and totally chilled in scary environments. Mikey G's positivity is also inspirational, and seems to be seeing him recover exceedingly quickly (along with the amount of sleep he partakes in). I'm beginning to see a trend of 'positivity gets you through sticky situations', which I have realised and put to use in a recent exam and it seemed to work... I am mega keen to put it to use on some hard (for me) trad, but at the moment with poor weather and exams in North Wales, I am focussing on maintaining my current level, so that once I finish exams I can have a couple of weeks of crushing before I head off to Squamish! Luckily the weather is absolutely rubbish in North Wales at the moment, so I hit the Indy yesterday in search of a good workout and some more training. The Indy, is a brilliant way of learning through failure as you can and will fail on V2s!! Unfortunately there was a lack of failure, so maybe no learning? Managed to bosh out my 3rd Indy V5 (albeit a soft one) thanks to some beta from Mr Carroll! I then set to work on what drew me here in the first place... FITNESS! A new circuit set at Fr7a+/b with a potentially 7c extension! After a rest I got on the 7a+/b and flashed it, I had looked at the moves and knew there would be a sting in the tail but once I got there, despite being mega boxed I kept pulling! It's probably more like 6c/+. Now the 7c? ext. This adds a hard, short bouldery section onto the 7a that I reckon might even be V3/4....uh oh. Unfortunately I failed time and time again pulling around onto the last section. I then ran (stumbled) home... today I feel broken and have eaten A LOT! But endeavor to keep doing a bit more than just wall sessions during exams and maybe beyond!
A few blogs to get you inspired:
Scotch-wad Greg Boswell: http://gregboswell.blogspot.com/
Brenin-wad Davey Morse: http://davidmorse1984.blogspot.com/
So go forth and don't be afraid of failure, there is no other way to learn and become better at climbing/life/whatever you want to excel at... Dunc
*bar one which I will have to return to North Wales... DAMN... to retake :/
Monday, 16 May 2011
Thursday, 5 May 2011
The rain in Spain falls mainly in El Chorro....
Hey guys, it has been a while since I splurged my life onto the internet for a number of reasons... firstly there was a lack of climbing and time, then there was a lack of internet and time... now I have both, or do I? I apologise in advance for the monster post... lots to fit in you see!
So the last instalment saw tales of crushing lovely trad routes on the beautiful Pembrokeshire coastline, after this I had work to do and no climbing was done :( Once handed in, I managed to get out for a sneaky boulder in the Llanberis Pass on Saturday morning. First I headed up to the Barrel under Dinas Mot as it was shady. I decided after a quick warm-up to try a V6 called Bulling-747. A powerful problem starting from 2 undercuts and powering up to match two small, slopey crimps and then a lunge for a jug. I didn't quite get that far unfortunately, it is evident that what bouldering power I had in the winter, when I sent two Porth Ysgo V6s in a session each, is now well and truly gone. I managed to hold the holds but could not hang them to match at all.... a sign of the times that endurance is in and power is out... as the tradding season is well and truly dawning. I then went down to the Cromlech boulders for a bit of a potter before heading back to Bangor to miss my train home by literally minutes.
However, most mere mortals would have resigned themselves to not getting home the next day in time for the one day I would be able to go cragging whist at home, but me? Oh no, I am a seasoned public transportee, me lad, I'll find a way to get home this eve or at least get into Newton Abbot early enough for a quick snooze before the scheduled afternoon crushfest with my good matey Henry. And this is what I tried; I got on the next train to Chester, changed at Crewe, got to Birmingham, all the time texting and ringing my bro for updates on the next train further South in my quest to beat National Rail Enquiries. No more trains from birmingham once you get there bro, ho ho ho I'll find a way me ol' mucker! says I, there must be a way...
Birmingham 10:20 pm no more trains southward bound AT ALL. Woops, looks like for once confidence won't blindly see you through... I know I'll kip in the loos, dozing in a cubicle on my trusty rucksack, eventually I am turfed out into the cold...no wait surprisingly mild saturday night in Birmingham. People fired up for a night out of drinking, dancing and laughing... I am an outcast, no-one knows where a hostel is, but Subway is open to 3:30am perfect, and all for the price of a bottle of coke. Turfed out at 2:30am, damn, ok lets take a stroll my boy, wait the people you want to avoid by curling up in a dark corner will be avoiding the rozzers in the same places... hmmm could kip in the middle of the flower and hedge arrangement? No. Back to the train station, where Ron Fawcett keeps me company with stories of his crushing around the world, then music until at 7:00 am when the cold is gnawing at my bones, I am interviewed by Sheree. A brummie woman with elaphantitis in one leg... she talks to me about life and her woes and asks me mine.... I don't really have any I guess, I'm pretty lucky, I have my health, a slightly disjointed family, loads of good mates a sweet girlfriend, enough money in my pocket to feed me and allow me to partake in my passion, to push myself mentally and physically on bits of rock... Thanks Sheree for reminding me :) I hope your life is taking a turn for the better wherever you are...
Eventually I am back home and my body aches all over from huddling over myself all night, no climbing for me today, I fall asleep in the garden... Damn. Then began a week at work, moody customers, boring stuff to sell (pots, pans, bedding anyone?), being reminded that whatever you decide to devote your life to is pointless in someones eyes, you just gotta do what inspires YOU...
Finally Monday, and I fly at 2:00pm, so hot at Exeter airport, how hot will it be in Spain? Answer: raining, sleep in the airport once Heather and Mason land, wake, hunt out gas and stove to cook on in the caves and train to El Chorro. Get to the caves and then only one thing: CLIMBING.
It took a couple of days to get back into the sport vibe and El Polvorin being a harsh master, I began to see my goals and aims slip away, but managed to try and learn from the failure and put a positive light on it, the Rock Warriors Way, see. Poema de Roca, a classic 7a, you can tell by the polish (Mr Sheen not Eastern Europe), brushed me off tantalisingly close to the chains.Then an attempt on La Orejazo 7a saw me at the chains putting the draws in! This victory was quickly revoked when I was told I had done the 7c to the chains on aforementioned route and it was about F6c+ (Coincidence?). For these days we were mostly dodging heavy rain showers, and were therefore restricted to steepness or those routes with steepness above. Whilst you lucky lot were basking in Spanish weather!
Finally we got some Spanish sun, and Cono Paco was the route chosen to be a new potential first 7a...it is just over vertical and pumpy....yummy. After a couple of nice warm-up routes, I got on it, thirsty for the onsight. Up down like a yo-yo hell bent on not being thrown in the bin, I eventually was as every yo-yo has been. After some grub, and now knowing how to do every move, except I forgot how to do the crux, I got on it and it went like a dream... ahhh finally just above the average sport climber? After this we scuttled round to a different crag and I started up Makita Power a 6c that I was told was hard by both Gwen and Mason, eek! I just about managed the powerful and technical crux, and then managed to race to the top as the first big drops of a rainshower began to drop. Luckily we found a 6b in the rainshadow, and there went my most productive day of sport climbing, 6a+, 2 6bs, a 6c onsight and a 7a redpoint.... nooice..
Next day, semi chill, Florence heads back to conquer the route that scared her yesterday, and I head up a lovely 6b+ cos its in the shade and it is HOT! Back to the campsite for a bit of a chill whilst it is hottest... then up to Encatadas once a bit of cloud comes in. Get on the boulderiest, pockety 6c, and fall literally going for the finishing jug! Boooo.
The final full day, Eugene was coerced into taking us to a crag the other side of the gorge, that is in the shade... Desplomilandia. We start at Buenos Sombres, a crag with a bouldery style to it that I find hard, but Florence is crushing today, we both do the 6a+ and the 6b+ (she cruises, I flail), then I put the clips in on the 6c but mess up the crux :( Florence flashes it! Awesome effort.... It's so easy on redpoint I'm angry... We head round the corner to the reassuring 'pump' symbol in the guide... La Novia 7a, chosen, the guide says its a bit runout... it is aswell. I was lucky and got the sequence right first or at worst second go. Got the aggression and focus perfect and just kept moving, even when I wanted to chill out I knew I had just had to go. On the upper section a big move to a diagonal rail from a horizontal juggy break was too far, but I realised this early and managed to switch to an undercut, get my feet high and exploded onto the rail, in one of the coolest sequences I have onsighted to date!!
After we left the caves we stayed at The Olive Branch, a brilliant little place where there is a range of accommodation from tents to bunkhouses to private rooms... check it out here; http://www.olivebranchelchorro.co.uk/
Another night in Malaga airport and a flight home whilst Will and Kate got all tied up and I was back in the UK, crashing at Jess' in Glossop. After less than a day my hands were itching so we popped up to Stanage for a few VS's, borrowing Jess' dad's old rack... and with Jess forgetting chalk I went old school and almost fell off Fern Crack which at VS 4c, no chalk on a hot, sunny day and precious few bits of gear that would fit, I see now how gnarly people used to be...
Another day was spent chilling in Derbyshire before I boarded the train back to Bangor, thankfully no train stations were slept in.
The next day as it was a Bank holiday, I decided to give myself a break and went cragging in the Pass with Fingers, our third house dosser this year... We first went up to Scimitar Ridge, potentially the windiest place in christendom. Chreon E2 5b was crushed first by fingeroo, then I got on Sparta an E3 5c. However, under the dirt and the no. 1 and 2 RPs was easy climbing warrenting E2 5b at the most, and a soft one at that. I guess I took the worng line. The plan had been for fingers to crush Roc-nest Monster E4 6a, then we would go to the Cromlech and I would do Memory Lane, E3 5c and he would do resurrection E4 6a. But the wind made us feel that maybe the Grochan at the opposite end of the Pass and low down would be better. It wasn't but we climbed anyway, Fingers crushed Stroll On, E3 6a which he had been on last year but not got clean, making it look easy I stepped up to the plate and barn-doored off early on, woops! I lowered down and went back up, this time not choppering the moves up as before! Getting to the rest under the roof, I was pumping but not too badly. placed a couple of bits of gear then set about resting. (It really is quite a good rest). However the next bit was hard and much yoyo-ing was done before I committed to the hard laybacks. Access denied, not enough commitment to the laybacks given, I was spat off. Back up to the rest, next time up I had it, placed some gear a way above and carried on. Another hard layback and I was pumping trying to figure it out, nope not enough commitment, off again. Next time up, just enough juice to pull into the final groove section. Luckily the one cam left fits. Squirming up I get another 2 small RPs in before the final section to sthe the belay and I'm there pumped, panting, petrified. Abbing off into the wind to clean the route I finally reach the ground, spanked but relatively happy.
Now it is on with the revision, until freedom on the 26th May. I am determined to keep climbing, and at worst maintain my current level, so that I can explode back onto the crags once I am free before I head off to Squamish!
Peas out, DC
So the last instalment saw tales of crushing lovely trad routes on the beautiful Pembrokeshire coastline, after this I had work to do and no climbing was done :( Once handed in, I managed to get out for a sneaky boulder in the Llanberis Pass on Saturday morning. First I headed up to the Barrel under Dinas Mot as it was shady. I decided after a quick warm-up to try a V6 called Bulling-747. A powerful problem starting from 2 undercuts and powering up to match two small, slopey crimps and then a lunge for a jug. I didn't quite get that far unfortunately, it is evident that what bouldering power I had in the winter, when I sent two Porth Ysgo V6s in a session each, is now well and truly gone. I managed to hold the holds but could not hang them to match at all.... a sign of the times that endurance is in and power is out... as the tradding season is well and truly dawning. I then went down to the Cromlech boulders for a bit of a potter before heading back to Bangor to miss my train home by literally minutes.
However, most mere mortals would have resigned themselves to not getting home the next day in time for the one day I would be able to go cragging whist at home, but me? Oh no, I am a seasoned public transportee, me lad, I'll find a way to get home this eve or at least get into Newton Abbot early enough for a quick snooze before the scheduled afternoon crushfest with my good matey Henry. And this is what I tried; I got on the next train to Chester, changed at Crewe, got to Birmingham, all the time texting and ringing my bro for updates on the next train further South in my quest to beat National Rail Enquiries. No more trains from birmingham once you get there bro, ho ho ho I'll find a way me ol' mucker! says I, there must be a way...
Birmingham 10:20 pm no more trains southward bound AT ALL. Woops, looks like for once confidence won't blindly see you through... I know I'll kip in the loos, dozing in a cubicle on my trusty rucksack, eventually I am turfed out into the cold...no wait surprisingly mild saturday night in Birmingham. People fired up for a night out of drinking, dancing and laughing... I am an outcast, no-one knows where a hostel is, but Subway is open to 3:30am perfect, and all for the price of a bottle of coke. Turfed out at 2:30am, damn, ok lets take a stroll my boy, wait the people you want to avoid by curling up in a dark corner will be avoiding the rozzers in the same places... hmmm could kip in the middle of the flower and hedge arrangement? No. Back to the train station, where Ron Fawcett keeps me company with stories of his crushing around the world, then music until at 7:00 am when the cold is gnawing at my bones, I am interviewed by Sheree. A brummie woman with elaphantitis in one leg... she talks to me about life and her woes and asks me mine.... I don't really have any I guess, I'm pretty lucky, I have my health, a slightly disjointed family, loads of good mates a sweet girlfriend, enough money in my pocket to feed me and allow me to partake in my passion, to push myself mentally and physically on bits of rock... Thanks Sheree for reminding me :) I hope your life is taking a turn for the better wherever you are...
Eventually I am back home and my body aches all over from huddling over myself all night, no climbing for me today, I fall asleep in the garden... Damn. Then began a week at work, moody customers, boring stuff to sell (pots, pans, bedding anyone?), being reminded that whatever you decide to devote your life to is pointless in someones eyes, you just gotta do what inspires YOU...
Finally Monday, and I fly at 2:00pm, so hot at Exeter airport, how hot will it be in Spain? Answer: raining, sleep in the airport once Heather and Mason land, wake, hunt out gas and stove to cook on in the caves and train to El Chorro. Get to the caves and then only one thing: CLIMBING.
It took a couple of days to get back into the sport vibe and El Polvorin being a harsh master, I began to see my goals and aims slip away, but managed to try and learn from the failure and put a positive light on it, the Rock Warriors Way, see. Poema de Roca, a classic 7a, you can tell by the polish (Mr Sheen not Eastern Europe), brushed me off tantalisingly close to the chains.Then an attempt on La Orejazo 7a saw me at the chains putting the draws in! This victory was quickly revoked when I was told I had done the 7c to the chains on aforementioned route and it was about F6c+ (Coincidence?). For these days we were mostly dodging heavy rain showers, and were therefore restricted to steepness or those routes with steepness above. Whilst you lucky lot were basking in Spanish weather!
Finally we got some Spanish sun, and Cono Paco was the route chosen to be a new potential first 7a...it is just over vertical and pumpy....yummy. After a couple of nice warm-up routes, I got on it, thirsty for the onsight. Up down like a yo-yo hell bent on not being thrown in the bin, I eventually was as every yo-yo has been. After some grub, and now knowing how to do every move, except I forgot how to do the crux, I got on it and it went like a dream... ahhh finally just above the average sport climber? After this we scuttled round to a different crag and I started up Makita Power a 6c that I was told was hard by both Gwen and Mason, eek! I just about managed the powerful and technical crux, and then managed to race to the top as the first big drops of a rainshower began to drop. Luckily we found a 6b in the rainshadow, and there went my most productive day of sport climbing, 6a+, 2 6bs, a 6c onsight and a 7a redpoint.... nooice..
Next day, semi chill, Florence heads back to conquer the route that scared her yesterday, and I head up a lovely 6b+ cos its in the shade and it is HOT! Back to the campsite for a bit of a chill whilst it is hottest... then up to Encatadas once a bit of cloud comes in. Get on the boulderiest, pockety 6c, and fall literally going for the finishing jug! Boooo.
The final full day, Eugene was coerced into taking us to a crag the other side of the gorge, that is in the shade... Desplomilandia. We start at Buenos Sombres, a crag with a bouldery style to it that I find hard, but Florence is crushing today, we both do the 6a+ and the 6b+ (she cruises, I flail), then I put the clips in on the 6c but mess up the crux :( Florence flashes it! Awesome effort.... It's so easy on redpoint I'm angry... We head round the corner to the reassuring 'pump' symbol in the guide... La Novia 7a, chosen, the guide says its a bit runout... it is aswell. I was lucky and got the sequence right first or at worst second go. Got the aggression and focus perfect and just kept moving, even when I wanted to chill out I knew I had just had to go. On the upper section a big move to a diagonal rail from a horizontal juggy break was too far, but I realised this early and managed to switch to an undercut, get my feet high and exploded onto the rail, in one of the coolest sequences I have onsighted to date!!
After we left the caves we stayed at The Olive Branch, a brilliant little place where there is a range of accommodation from tents to bunkhouses to private rooms... check it out here; http://www.olivebranchelchorro.co.uk/
Another night in Malaga airport and a flight home whilst Will and Kate got all tied up and I was back in the UK, crashing at Jess' in Glossop. After less than a day my hands were itching so we popped up to Stanage for a few VS's, borrowing Jess' dad's old rack... and with Jess forgetting chalk I went old school and almost fell off Fern Crack which at VS 4c, no chalk on a hot, sunny day and precious few bits of gear that would fit, I see now how gnarly people used to be...
Another day was spent chilling in Derbyshire before I boarded the train back to Bangor, thankfully no train stations were slept in.
The next day as it was a Bank holiday, I decided to give myself a break and went cragging in the Pass with Fingers, our third house dosser this year... We first went up to Scimitar Ridge, potentially the windiest place in christendom. Chreon E2 5b was crushed first by fingeroo, then I got on Sparta an E3 5c. However, under the dirt and the no. 1 and 2 RPs was easy climbing warrenting E2 5b at the most, and a soft one at that. I guess I took the worng line. The plan had been for fingers to crush Roc-nest Monster E4 6a, then we would go to the Cromlech and I would do Memory Lane, E3 5c and he would do resurrection E4 6a. But the wind made us feel that maybe the Grochan at the opposite end of the Pass and low down would be better. It wasn't but we climbed anyway, Fingers crushed Stroll On, E3 6a which he had been on last year but not got clean, making it look easy I stepped up to the plate and barn-doored off early on, woops! I lowered down and went back up, this time not choppering the moves up as before! Getting to the rest under the roof, I was pumping but not too badly. placed a couple of bits of gear then set about resting. (It really is quite a good rest). However the next bit was hard and much yoyo-ing was done before I committed to the hard laybacks. Access denied, not enough commitment to the laybacks given, I was spat off. Back up to the rest, next time up I had it, placed some gear a way above and carried on. Another hard layback and I was pumping trying to figure it out, nope not enough commitment, off again. Next time up, just enough juice to pull into the final groove section. Luckily the one cam left fits. Squirming up I get another 2 small RPs in before the final section to sthe the belay and I'm there pumped, panting, petrified. Abbing off into the wind to clean the route I finally reach the ground, spanked but relatively happy.
Now it is on with the revision, until freedom on the 26th May. I am determined to keep climbing, and at worst maintain my current level, so that I can explode back onto the crags once I am free before I head off to Squamish!
Peas out, DC
Wednesday, 6 April 2011
Limestone Lemurs
After being cooped up like a small rodent from Wednesday to Friday, I handed my essay in, and was picked up by Dave so that we could get an early start on Friday morning.
We woke to thick cloud and rain in Capel Curig, but buoyed by the fact that Capel is the wettest place in the world, we packed the car and set off South, headed for an afternoon hit on Carreg-y-Barcud, North Pembroke. After hours of driving, we saw a few patches of blue sky and forged on, imagining golden sun, blue skies and bikini clad women at the bottom of the crag (or was that just me??). Arriving at Barcud it was clear that few of these would materialise, though I did try and convince Heather to crack her bikini out, but fortunately she declined. Abbing in to the belay ledges, it was obvious that the incoming tide and rough swell dictated a swift traverse to the right-hand side of the Main Face. I ended up on Beyond the Azimuth, with Dave on belay duty, as I set off up the route I began to feel a splattering on me and shouted down "Is it just me or is this sea spray really heavy!?!?" The response being "It's raining get a move on!". 'Right, shit' I thought 'slabby E1 in the rain'. I placed another bit of gear, and began to move up the diagonal crackline, placing gear more often than I usually do on that sort of terrain. Despite being a bit intimidated at the beginning of the route I soon found myself at the top by just taking it a move at a time and getting as much gear in as possible. I searched out a couple of stacked wires for a belay, and bought Dave up. By this time, Heather and Siobhan had also topped out on their route and declared their escape back to the car. Dave decided as we were here he would have a quick top-rope of an E5 he had tried before, and luckily cruised to the top, and we bailed back to the car.
We headed to Dave's Dad's House for warmth and dryness, and Siobhan russled up a mega chilli, which I ate far too much of! After a good sleep, we headed down to Bosherston Head for some steep Limestone!
It was me and Florence the Machine on Crush Team B whilst Dave and Shivvers went to have a crack at Star Wars...
Florence crushed Cool for Cats at Stennis Head in the shade as a warm up so we headed to St Govan's for some sun and lactic acid. It was my lead, and abbing in I knew that to push myself and get a decent route in I would have to get on The Butcher E2/3 5c or Poisoned Arrow E4 6a. Unsure of how well I was climbing on steep rock I opted for the Butcher. Setting off it felt greasy and I had a hard time believing I would get up it clean, but just took it in sections, and after a tricky section found myself at the Jug rest under the crux...It turned out to be full of water, so with a wet right hand I set about putting in some good gear for the crux. However, in an effort to keep my left hand dry I was using a poorer hold and had to keep swapping hands to place gear and then rest the other hand! After what seemed like an age, I had assessed the crux and decided to go for it, my right hand dry, grabbing the crimp, pulling through to the good hold on the arete, my feet and body moving into position to allow me to carry on upwards, on into the upper crack I plug a cam in and keep moving, riding the pump now, nearing the top, pull over and whoop for joy! Make a belay and my whole body is buzzing, I did it, no in-situ gear to clip, no ledges, hands off rests or respite from the steepness. It felt more E3 than E2 to me but steep, pumpy climbing is not a strong point of mine. Whatever the grade, what an experience and a big boost to my confidence. Florence crushed it on second like the machine she is and we got some grub down us.
We abbed back in for the Arrow, a classic E1 I seconded on my last trip to Pembroke, after a few false starts on the wet bottom section, Heather flew up it, and I tried to do the same on second. Not sure what to do next, I decided another classic was in order so blasted up Army Dreamers (HVS 5a) which has some brilliant climbing marred only by the polish. After my battle with the Butcher I felt flowing and confident, enjoying the position and climbing. Satisfied, we headed to the campsite, had some reet tasty food and headed to the pub for some cider...
Sunday began in an overcast manner and with both the Castle and Rusty Walls soaked, we headed back to St Govan's, so I pottered up Panzer II, a shortlived HVS to the right of Army Dreamers. Then the sun came out, Heather then did Tactitian another HVS with a burly, cornery crux...kudos! I then did War Games, an E1 next to Tactitian, its no harder, just a bit bolder and a tad more goey but has hands off rests and the best, most exposed corner at the top. To carry on the Military theme of the day, Heather finished off with Front line a really great HVS to the left of Army Dreamers. A brilliantly chilled day, just enjoying the movement over rock, and being next to the sea in great company, bathed in sunshine!
Overall, a wicked weekend, with a fair amount of mileage, I also have started feeling far more comfortable on steep ground, and instead of panicking as soon as I begin to feel my forearms fill with lactic acid, I sort myself out and try and find a rest or push on to a rest.
A good effort to Dave for abbing in and getting on Star Wars, the idea of it intimidated me all weekend, unfortunately the send was halted by a dodgy move above RPs, still at least I've got some beta on it now!
I cannot wait to get back down there, armed with a bit more sport fitness and more sun!! I think I will try and get a load more E3s done and maybe have a crack at Bloody Sunday, Poisoned Arrow, or Star Wars all E4... Spicy times!!
DC
We woke to thick cloud and rain in Capel Curig, but buoyed by the fact that Capel is the wettest place in the world, we packed the car and set off South, headed for an afternoon hit on Carreg-y-Barcud, North Pembroke. After hours of driving, we saw a few patches of blue sky and forged on, imagining golden sun, blue skies and bikini clad women at the bottom of the crag (or was that just me??). Arriving at Barcud it was clear that few of these would materialise, though I did try and convince Heather to crack her bikini out, but fortunately she declined. Abbing in to the belay ledges, it was obvious that the incoming tide and rough swell dictated a swift traverse to the right-hand side of the Main Face. I ended up on Beyond the Azimuth, with Dave on belay duty, as I set off up the route I began to feel a splattering on me and shouted down "Is it just me or is this sea spray really heavy!?!?" The response being "It's raining get a move on!". 'Right, shit' I thought 'slabby E1 in the rain'. I placed another bit of gear, and began to move up the diagonal crackline, placing gear more often than I usually do on that sort of terrain. Despite being a bit intimidated at the beginning of the route I soon found myself at the top by just taking it a move at a time and getting as much gear in as possible. I searched out a couple of stacked wires for a belay, and bought Dave up. By this time, Heather and Siobhan had also topped out on their route and declared their escape back to the car. Dave decided as we were here he would have a quick top-rope of an E5 he had tried before, and luckily cruised to the top, and we bailed back to the car.
 |
| A wild Carreg-y-Barcud |
It was me and Florence the Machine on Crush Team B whilst Dave and Shivvers went to have a crack at Star Wars...
Florence crushed Cool for Cats at Stennis Head in the shade as a warm up so we headed to St Govan's for some sun and lactic acid. It was my lead, and abbing in I knew that to push myself and get a decent route in I would have to get on The Butcher E2/3 5c or Poisoned Arrow E4 6a. Unsure of how well I was climbing on steep rock I opted for the Butcher. Setting off it felt greasy and I had a hard time believing I would get up it clean, but just took it in sections, and after a tricky section found myself at the Jug rest under the crux...It turned out to be full of water, so with a wet right hand I set about putting in some good gear for the crux. However, in an effort to keep my left hand dry I was using a poorer hold and had to keep swapping hands to place gear and then rest the other hand! After what seemed like an age, I had assessed the crux and decided to go for it, my right hand dry, grabbing the crimp, pulling through to the good hold on the arete, my feet and body moving into position to allow me to carry on upwards, on into the upper crack I plug a cam in and keep moving, riding the pump now, nearing the top, pull over and whoop for joy! Make a belay and my whole body is buzzing, I did it, no in-situ gear to clip, no ledges, hands off rests or respite from the steepness. It felt more E3 than E2 to me but steep, pumpy climbing is not a strong point of mine. Whatever the grade, what an experience and a big boost to my confidence. Florence crushed it on second like the machine she is and we got some grub down us.
 |
| Low down on The Butcher E3 5c *** |
We abbed back in for the Arrow, a classic E1 I seconded on my last trip to Pembroke, after a few false starts on the wet bottom section, Heather flew up it, and I tried to do the same on second. Not sure what to do next, I decided another classic was in order so blasted up Army Dreamers (HVS 5a) which has some brilliant climbing marred only by the polish. After my battle with the Butcher I felt flowing and confident, enjoying the position and climbing. Satisfied, we headed to the campsite, had some reet tasty food and headed to the pub for some cider...
Sunday began in an overcast manner and with both the Castle and Rusty Walls soaked, we headed back to St Govan's, so I pottered up Panzer II, a shortlived HVS to the right of Army Dreamers. Then the sun came out, Heather then did Tactitian another HVS with a burly, cornery crux...kudos! I then did War Games, an E1 next to Tactitian, its no harder, just a bit bolder and a tad more goey but has hands off rests and the best, most exposed corner at the top. To carry on the Military theme of the day, Heather finished off with Front line a really great HVS to the left of Army Dreamers. A brilliantly chilled day, just enjoying the movement over rock, and being next to the sea in great company, bathed in sunshine!
 |
| Florence the Machine fiddling some gear into the Tactitian, HVS 5a *** |
Overall, a wicked weekend, with a fair amount of mileage, I also have started feeling far more comfortable on steep ground, and instead of panicking as soon as I begin to feel my forearms fill with lactic acid, I sort myself out and try and find a rest or push on to a rest.
A good effort to Dave for abbing in and getting on Star Wars, the idea of it intimidated me all weekend, unfortunately the send was halted by a dodgy move above RPs, still at least I've got some beta on it now!
I cannot wait to get back down there, armed with a bit more sport fitness and more sun!! I think I will try and get a load more E3s done and maybe have a crack at Bloody Sunday, Poisoned Arrow, or Star Wars all E4... Spicy times!!
DC
Monday, 4 April 2011
Battling with the Colossal....
Colossal is the theme of the blog for better and worse, this week, although unfortunately it isn't due to a colossal amount of routes.....yet.
Since Thursday's successful trip to Tremadog, in which Mikey has had a write up on his new route, The Philtrum, which received its 2nd ascent at the hands of Ed Booth on Sunday the 27th, confirming the grade at E6 6b....decent!! You can read Si Panton's write up on the V12 website here; http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/03/29/philtrum-e6-6b-craig-bwlch-y-moch/
Next up was an assignment due in 5:00pm friday...yikes! Luckily, it was fairly straightforward River Habitat Survey....zzzzzzzz. Saturday was also spent making headway into an essay whilst the sun shone outside.
Sunday promised a trip to LPT and with any luck a 7a+ redpoint, in way of a bit of training, despite the fact my heart lay in the Pass. Any dreams were however thwarted by a colossal error....leaving my rock-boots at home...d'oh!!! The day however was not lost, I ran up the F5+, and the F6a twice in Charlie's softer than 'kitten fur' shoes, and had a play on I've been a bad, bad boy F7c on toprope whilst Mikey tried to redpoint it. I am unsure on how to feel about it as a potential future redpoint project, it has some fairly steady sections, but a few wild moves where I struggled to keep my feet on... but anyway it was cool to have a go...
Monday saw more work done, but an escape to the slate quarries with Mikey (again!), visiting Colossus wall, a place where I have unfinished business, with the wall's namesake... Colossus E3 5c. Last March I had a go but intimidated by the steepness of the wall and the fact it looked wet higher up, I bailed by the 3rd bolt. This time, I was sure it would go better, I would defeat Colossus despite my diminutive stature.... Up by the second bolt I pulled on a nice positive crimp to give me some security from greasing off the slopey one I had with my left, but instead of upward motion I felt a thump on my forehead as I prised a rugby-ball sized block of slate off the wall! Glad to be wearing a lid, I composed myself and carried on up. The crux proved to be a bit pumpy, and technical, but I enjoyed every second of it, especially the wild dynamic crossover I made to the ledge that marks the end of the difficulties. Topping out, I was once again awash with the adrenal highs of a good fight into the unknown, reminding me the reason for getting out of your comfort zone. As I basked in the glorious March sun (and my own self satisfaction), I belayed Mikey up it for his warm-up. I then gave Mikey a belay on Major Headstress an E4/5 6a, then seconded it. I managed to get through the crux clean but stopped concentrating and fell off a 5b/c layback move then again trying to go direct to Mikey...woops! Fantastic climbing on that wall though... Great Balls of Fire, E4 6a is set firmly in my sights!
Tuesday saw a colossal training session at the Indy Wall on Anglesey, a few runs on the F6b(7a?) circuit, and then back to trying to redpoint the F7a+/b(7c?) circuit. Managed to get a new highpoint, on the final section, but just lost power on the unhelpful 'elephant ears' hold. However, this bodes well for my fitness. I've given up on trying any hard boulder problems now, and my power is dwindling a bit... Finished off with a fingerboard session doing frenchies on the Jugs and then the slopers, and then just did a 'pump session' where I just traversed around the feature wall trying to maintain a steady pump, I then moved on to traversing the top-rope walls and onto the lead walls before heading home for press-ups, sit-ups and beans on toast...
I am currently battling the colossal amount of Psyche I have, to instead finish my essay and then.....
Onto PEMBROKE!!!! YYEEEEEHHAAAA!!! Should be a mint little trip, heading down with Florence the Machine, Davey Morse, Shivvers and a couple of cars worth of BUMS, including Mikey and Mason...pretty keen to be honest with you, so many routes to do!
Now on to a couple of Blogs for you to peruse...
First up is a mate of mine from the shire who has now moved on to Scotland, but he writes a really good blog, with nice abstract views on everyday life, and climbing of course: http://dominicjeff.blogspot.com/
Next up is a Guy I have met once or twice, but is a mate of Mason's, and despite being a handy little pocket rocket, is always genuinely psyched for other's achievements which I really respect.. Guy VG's blog: http://knowhereboy.blogspot.com/2011/03/consolidation.html
Peace out.
Since Thursday's successful trip to Tremadog, in which Mikey has had a write up on his new route, The Philtrum, which received its 2nd ascent at the hands of Ed Booth on Sunday the 27th, confirming the grade at E6 6b....decent!! You can read Si Panton's write up on the V12 website here; http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/03/29/philtrum-e6-6b-craig-bwlch-y-moch/
Next up was an assignment due in 5:00pm friday...yikes! Luckily, it was fairly straightforward River Habitat Survey....zzzzzzzz. Saturday was also spent making headway into an essay whilst the sun shone outside.
Sunday promised a trip to LPT and with any luck a 7a+ redpoint, in way of a bit of training, despite the fact my heart lay in the Pass. Any dreams were however thwarted by a colossal error....leaving my rock-boots at home...d'oh!!! The day however was not lost, I ran up the F5+, and the F6a twice in Charlie's softer than 'kitten fur' shoes, and had a play on I've been a bad, bad boy F7c on toprope whilst Mikey tried to redpoint it. I am unsure on how to feel about it as a potential future redpoint project, it has some fairly steady sections, but a few wild moves where I struggled to keep my feet on... but anyway it was cool to have a go...
Monday saw more work done, but an escape to the slate quarries with Mikey (again!), visiting Colossus wall, a place where I have unfinished business, with the wall's namesake... Colossus E3 5c. Last March I had a go but intimidated by the steepness of the wall and the fact it looked wet higher up, I bailed by the 3rd bolt. This time, I was sure it would go better, I would defeat Colossus despite my diminutive stature.... Up by the second bolt I pulled on a nice positive crimp to give me some security from greasing off the slopey one I had with my left, but instead of upward motion I felt a thump on my forehead as I prised a rugby-ball sized block of slate off the wall! Glad to be wearing a lid, I composed myself and carried on up. The crux proved to be a bit pumpy, and technical, but I enjoyed every second of it, especially the wild dynamic crossover I made to the ledge that marks the end of the difficulties. Topping out, I was once again awash with the adrenal highs of a good fight into the unknown, reminding me the reason for getting out of your comfort zone. As I basked in the glorious March sun (and my own self satisfaction), I belayed Mikey up it for his warm-up. I then gave Mikey a belay on Major Headstress an E4/5 6a, then seconded it. I managed to get through the crux clean but stopped concentrating and fell off a 5b/c layback move then again trying to go direct to Mikey...woops! Fantastic climbing on that wall though... Great Balls of Fire, E4 6a is set firmly in my sights!
Tuesday saw a colossal training session at the Indy Wall on Anglesey, a few runs on the F6b(7a?) circuit, and then back to trying to redpoint the F7a+/b(7c?) circuit. Managed to get a new highpoint, on the final section, but just lost power on the unhelpful 'elephant ears' hold. However, this bodes well for my fitness. I've given up on trying any hard boulder problems now, and my power is dwindling a bit... Finished off with a fingerboard session doing frenchies on the Jugs and then the slopers, and then just did a 'pump session' where I just traversed around the feature wall trying to maintain a steady pump, I then moved on to traversing the top-rope walls and onto the lead walls before heading home for press-ups, sit-ups and beans on toast...
I am currently battling the colossal amount of Psyche I have, to instead finish my essay and then.....
Onto PEMBROKE!!!! YYEEEEEHHAAAA!!! Should be a mint little trip, heading down with Florence the Machine, Davey Morse, Shivvers and a couple of cars worth of BUMS, including Mikey and Mason...pretty keen to be honest with you, so many routes to do!
Now on to a couple of Blogs for you to peruse...
First up is a mate of mine from the shire who has now moved on to Scotland, but he writes a really good blog, with nice abstract views on everyday life, and climbing of course: http://dominicjeff.blogspot.com/
Next up is a Guy I have met once or twice, but is a mate of Mason's, and despite being a handy little pocket rocket, is always genuinely psyched for other's achievements which I really respect.. Guy VG's blog: http://knowhereboy.blogspot.com/2011/03/consolidation.html
Peace out.
Saturday, 26 March 2011
The Thanks Blog
Well this week has been a pretty damn busy one!
As it was my 21st birthday this wednesday (I'm definately no longer chronologically a kid anymore, mentally is different) me and Jess headed down to my homeland, Devon to see me rents and all the family actually! It was great to see Mum, Dad, Ali the bro and all the family again and we had awesome weather too which was great! I was showered with generous gifts, I'm a lucky, lucky boy. This feeling was excentuated by watching Red Nose Day, a great event which always makes me feel lucky to be British and put my hand in my pocket.
We headed back to North Wales on monday and plans were made for Castell Cidwm on the tuesday with Alex, Central Wall, E3 being the target. On waking I felt rough as dogs, but perked up enough to go to the crag. Once we got there I felt worse again, so the Curver at HVS 4c was the first tick of the day me taking the EXPOSED 2nd pitch. It's probably only VS but a fun little route. Then Mase ticked off the Straightener, and I kicked off a block whilst seconding! It was then time to go as we had an important date to make.......
Jess and her Dad took Bubbles, Laura, Mason and me to a Ron Fawcett lecture in Stockport, this was a dream come true for me as Ron is one of my all time heroes. It didn't dissapoint with lots of personal stories about his travels, First Ascents, and just the general scene in the 70's and 80's. To top it all I got a signed copy if his autobiography and two, yes TWO handshakes! I endeavour never to wash my right hand again... However, for the first time I felt truly starstruck, I have a bit of a rep for making a twat out of myself when meeting famous climbers... sorry George I was young and naive.... but I truly didn't know what to say to Ron.... Thanks guys it was awesome.
We busted back to the big N.W. and on wednesday we headed out to the pass armed with a minbus full of pads, people and psyche! Utopia, wavelength and boysen's groove boulders were swarmed up, around and over in a mad rush. I had an aim of getting at least 21 V-points and managed this fairly comfortably with, a V2 a V3, 2 V4s, a V5, and a V5/6 repeat. But the effort of the day was Tom 'Bubbles' Ripley's ascent of his first V4 Boysen's groove, he has gone from a mountaineer who casted bouldering off as rubbish to being on a natural high for literally hours after.... inspirational!! We finished the day off with a barbie down by the cromlech boulders and an adventure into a munitions store near Llanberis.
Thursday saw Tommy Martin come over to crush and we headed to Tremadog. I teamed up with Mikey and headed off up Merlin Direct a really nice HVS that I have been wanting to do for a while. we then headed over to the Vector Buttress so he could try his project. After a few topropes, sorting the gear and a new sequence, Mikey G went for the lead, and whilst he was doing the 6b crux I was on tenter-hooks. He obviously cruised through to the final mantle where he looked a bit shakey but he cruised on up to glory! The Philtrum E5/6 6b *(*). An awesome effort from Mikey who's boyish good looks and flowing climbing style will surely be the feature of magazines and DVD's of the future, it was awesome to be there to share the experiance with him! I headed up Grim Wall VS to get the gear from the top and we headed down for some grub and water.
After this we still had some more time so I led the first pitch of the Fang HVS 5a and the led the second pitch of Extraction, E2 5c which I found surprisingly straight-forward, which bodes well! A brilliant few days and some awesome weather for North Wales at the moment, I hope it stays good for pembroke!
Now though it's back to the grindstone so I can go to pembroke.....
Here is a nice little blog for you guys to dip in and out of, and the inspiration behind this post:
http://thxthxthx.com/
The Thanks Blog, is a series of thankyou notes written by an American woman and can range from funny, to very poiniant.... well worth a browse...
So Thanks everyone, whos made my 21st such an awesome week!!
As it was my 21st birthday this wednesday (I'm definately no longer chronologically a kid anymore, mentally is different) me and Jess headed down to my homeland, Devon to see me rents and all the family actually! It was great to see Mum, Dad, Ali the bro and all the family again and we had awesome weather too which was great! I was showered with generous gifts, I'm a lucky, lucky boy. This feeling was excentuated by watching Red Nose Day, a great event which always makes me feel lucky to be British and put my hand in my pocket.
We headed back to North Wales on monday and plans were made for Castell Cidwm on the tuesday with Alex, Central Wall, E3 being the target. On waking I felt rough as dogs, but perked up enough to go to the crag. Once we got there I felt worse again, so the Curver at HVS 4c was the first tick of the day me taking the EXPOSED 2nd pitch. It's probably only VS but a fun little route. Then Mase ticked off the Straightener, and I kicked off a block whilst seconding! It was then time to go as we had an important date to make.......
Jess and her Dad took Bubbles, Laura, Mason and me to a Ron Fawcett lecture in Stockport, this was a dream come true for me as Ron is one of my all time heroes. It didn't dissapoint with lots of personal stories about his travels, First Ascents, and just the general scene in the 70's and 80's. To top it all I got a signed copy if his autobiography and two, yes TWO handshakes! I endeavour never to wash my right hand again... However, for the first time I felt truly starstruck, I have a bit of a rep for making a twat out of myself when meeting famous climbers... sorry George I was young and naive.... but I truly didn't know what to say to Ron.... Thanks guys it was awesome.
We busted back to the big N.W. and on wednesday we headed out to the pass armed with a minbus full of pads, people and psyche! Utopia, wavelength and boysen's groove boulders were swarmed up, around and over in a mad rush. I had an aim of getting at least 21 V-points and managed this fairly comfortably with, a V2 a V3, 2 V4s, a V5, and a V5/6 repeat. But the effort of the day was Tom 'Bubbles' Ripley's ascent of his first V4 Boysen's groove, he has gone from a mountaineer who casted bouldering off as rubbish to being on a natural high for literally hours after.... inspirational!! We finished the day off with a barbie down by the cromlech boulders and an adventure into a munitions store near Llanberis.
Thursday saw Tommy Martin come over to crush and we headed to Tremadog. I teamed up with Mikey and headed off up Merlin Direct a really nice HVS that I have been wanting to do for a while. we then headed over to the Vector Buttress so he could try his project. After a few topropes, sorting the gear and a new sequence, Mikey G went for the lead, and whilst he was doing the 6b crux I was on tenter-hooks. He obviously cruised through to the final mantle where he looked a bit shakey but he cruised on up to glory! The Philtrum E5/6 6b *(*). An awesome effort from Mikey who's boyish good looks and flowing climbing style will surely be the feature of magazines and DVD's of the future, it was awesome to be there to share the experiance with him! I headed up Grim Wall VS to get the gear from the top and we headed down for some grub and water.
After this we still had some more time so I led the first pitch of the Fang HVS 5a and the led the second pitch of Extraction, E2 5c which I found surprisingly straight-forward, which bodes well! A brilliant few days and some awesome weather for North Wales at the moment, I hope it stays good for pembroke!
Now though it's back to the grindstone so I can go to pembroke.....
Here is a nice little blog for you guys to dip in and out of, and the inspiration behind this post:
http://thxthxthx.com/
The Thanks Blog, is a series of thankyou notes written by an American woman and can range from funny, to very poiniant.... well worth a browse...
So Thanks everyone, whos made my 21st such an awesome week!!
Thursday, 17 March 2011
All creamed out...
This week has become a very exciting one indeed.....
On monday me and Davey Morse set a plan to go to Tremadog with the goal to climb the Vector headwall classic Cream, E4 6a. I prepared myself the night before with comedy avec Green Wing and 8 hours sleep (perfecto, non?). Meeting in tremadog village I was surprised to find Dave missing his trusty 'Chariot', instead with a car he had pikey-ed off some poor unsuspecting soul I suspect.
Anyway we busted up to the base of the Vector Buttress, necks craning to get a look at the impressive Vector headwall and the crux pitch... Luckily my nervousness was distracted by two guys trying to find One Step in the Clouds, a Tremadog classic at VS 4c. So jovially, I set off on pitch 1 and soon found myself at the palatial belay that seems to be the starting point of nearly all the classic hard routes on this beautiful piece of dolerite... Soon enough Dave was up there with me and was off and onto the tricky 5c pitch of Cream. Once he was out of sight, doubts began to creep into my mind; 'I've only ever climbed one E3 at tremadog', 'All my other E4 onsights have been bold slabs, not steep cracks!'. However, I managed to banish these thoughts partly from psyche for the route (which was reet high) and lessons learnt from the book: 'The Rock Warriors Way' by Arno Ilgner which is a mental training book for climbing, a rarity and despite having not finished it, it has helped me relax into hard trad attempts much quicker than I thought I would, which has gotta be a good thing, eh?
Despite audible hassle from my krabs of wires Dave made it to the belay and made a sizeable belay in one of the most wild positions you'll find yourself in so close to the road yet not above the sea! I followed, impressed at the trickiness of the crux. Getting to the belay I noticed that a few of the pieces I predicted I might like up there were in the belay, but just took everything I could and started climbing. A tricky move to a Jug filled with wet plants, slowed the flow, until I committed to the tricky section before the rest and the crux crack... I almost managed to spoon this up, noticing a good hold once I had passed it but sketched my way up to an almost no-hands rest. After fannying around trying to get some good gear in, I began to rest and actually really enjoy the position I was in!
Now came the hard bit, getting real steep, real quick, I pulled up into fingerlocks and edges with poor feet, and tried to get some gear in, unfortunately I had already placed the best sized cam lower down so bunged in the smaller one in the best bit of the crack and hastily retreated. Back up saw me push on into the crux, I won't spoil it for you aspirant Cream-ers but I couldn't see what I was going to and wasn't confident that I wouldn't kick the cam out on the way past so made a half-assed attempt at the move and the dream fell away...
Next up was Dave and despite looking good and being a Brenin wad, he got a move further, wiggled some gear in and fell! Nightmare!! After a rest, it was discovered that he was a move away from a juggaroo! Dave quickly despatched the juggy traverse and I followed with one rest to remove some gear...
Despite blowing a route that I have wanted to onsight for a while now, my over-riding feeling is that of psyche, inspiration and just having some really good fun on it. The climbing is brilliant, loads of gear if you have the guns and in an amazing position... it has made Strawberries a route which I will definately get on at some point in my life I hope, despite the E7 grade!
2011 should be a good year for me, getting on a steep E4 so early in the season bodes well for my goals, this time last year I almost decked out on an E2, and went on to consistantly onsight E2 by the summer!
This brings me nicely on to my travel arrangements for my 21st year! At easter I will be heading to El Chorro, Spain for some sunny sport climbing and hopefully a boost to my rock fitness.
Then in June I am heading to Squamish, Canada... I am really excited about this, I'm not the best crack climber so it will be great to be forced onto them, plus the diversity of Squamish is amazing, slabs, walls, cracks, sport, 500m routes, bouldering all within walking distance from the campsite! I will be accompanied by Heather aka Florence the machine. I'm so excited!!!
First up in my blog reccomendations are the two blogs that should keep you psyched and inspired by tales of hard trad, sport and boulders from two of the best climbers I know:
Alex Mason's blog: http://alexmasonclimbing.blogspot.com/
Mason is a good mate and one of my housemates, he regurlarly gets on and cruises hard trad routes all over the country, and I think he's pretty much done every route I aspire to do up to E5, crushed V9 boulder, flashed F7c, RP-ed F8a and racked up some E6 onsights including crushing Lord of the Flies last summer...he really is a stinky bugger....
Mikey Goldthorp's blog: http://mikeygoldthorp.blogspot.com/
Mikey, another good mate and Harry Potter-esque housemate (he lives under the stairs) and is surely the most-talented reacher I have yet to meet... in 4 years he has gone from never touching rock to ticking F8a slab, E7 ground-up, E6 onsight solo on grit, Font 7c+ boulders and E5 onsight. Don't worry I'll be breaking his legs soon as an experiment to see if it would slow him down at all.
Keep it creamy...
On monday me and Davey Morse set a plan to go to Tremadog with the goal to climb the Vector headwall classic Cream, E4 6a. I prepared myself the night before with comedy avec Green Wing and 8 hours sleep (perfecto, non?). Meeting in tremadog village I was surprised to find Dave missing his trusty 'Chariot', instead with a car he had pikey-ed off some poor unsuspecting soul I suspect.
Anyway we busted up to the base of the Vector Buttress, necks craning to get a look at the impressive Vector headwall and the crux pitch... Luckily my nervousness was distracted by two guys trying to find One Step in the Clouds, a Tremadog classic at VS 4c. So jovially, I set off on pitch 1 and soon found myself at the palatial belay that seems to be the starting point of nearly all the classic hard routes on this beautiful piece of dolerite... Soon enough Dave was up there with me and was off and onto the tricky 5c pitch of Cream. Once he was out of sight, doubts began to creep into my mind; 'I've only ever climbed one E3 at tremadog', 'All my other E4 onsights have been bold slabs, not steep cracks!'. However, I managed to banish these thoughts partly from psyche for the route (which was reet high) and lessons learnt from the book: 'The Rock Warriors Way' by Arno Ilgner which is a mental training book for climbing, a rarity and despite having not finished it, it has helped me relax into hard trad attempts much quicker than I thought I would, which has gotta be a good thing, eh?
Despite audible hassle from my krabs of wires Dave made it to the belay and made a sizeable belay in one of the most wild positions you'll find yourself in so close to the road yet not above the sea! I followed, impressed at the trickiness of the crux. Getting to the belay I noticed that a few of the pieces I predicted I might like up there were in the belay, but just took everything I could and started climbing. A tricky move to a Jug filled with wet plants, slowed the flow, until I committed to the tricky section before the rest and the crux crack... I almost managed to spoon this up, noticing a good hold once I had passed it but sketched my way up to an almost no-hands rest. After fannying around trying to get some good gear in, I began to rest and actually really enjoy the position I was in!
Now came the hard bit, getting real steep, real quick, I pulled up into fingerlocks and edges with poor feet, and tried to get some gear in, unfortunately I had already placed the best sized cam lower down so bunged in the smaller one in the best bit of the crack and hastily retreated. Back up saw me push on into the crux, I won't spoil it for you aspirant Cream-ers but I couldn't see what I was going to and wasn't confident that I wouldn't kick the cam out on the way past so made a half-assed attempt at the move and the dream fell away...
Next up was Dave and despite looking good and being a Brenin wad, he got a move further, wiggled some gear in and fell! Nightmare!! After a rest, it was discovered that he was a move away from a juggaroo! Dave quickly despatched the juggy traverse and I followed with one rest to remove some gear...
Despite blowing a route that I have wanted to onsight for a while now, my over-riding feeling is that of psyche, inspiration and just having some really good fun on it. The climbing is brilliant, loads of gear if you have the guns and in an amazing position... it has made Strawberries a route which I will definately get on at some point in my life I hope, despite the E7 grade!
2011 should be a good year for me, getting on a steep E4 so early in the season bodes well for my goals, this time last year I almost decked out on an E2, and went on to consistantly onsight E2 by the summer!
This brings me nicely on to my travel arrangements for my 21st year! At easter I will be heading to El Chorro, Spain for some sunny sport climbing and hopefully a boost to my rock fitness.
Then in June I am heading to Squamish, Canada... I am really excited about this, I'm not the best crack climber so it will be great to be forced onto them, plus the diversity of Squamish is amazing, slabs, walls, cracks, sport, 500m routes, bouldering all within walking distance from the campsite! I will be accompanied by Heather aka Florence the machine. I'm so excited!!!
First up in my blog reccomendations are the two blogs that should keep you psyched and inspired by tales of hard trad, sport and boulders from two of the best climbers I know:
Alex Mason's blog: http://alexmasonclimbing.blogspot.com/
Mason is a good mate and one of my housemates, he regurlarly gets on and cruises hard trad routes all over the country, and I think he's pretty much done every route I aspire to do up to E5, crushed V9 boulder, flashed F7c, RP-ed F8a and racked up some E6 onsights including crushing Lord of the Flies last summer...he really is a stinky bugger....
Mikey Goldthorp's blog: http://mikeygoldthorp.blogspot.com/
Mikey, another good mate and Harry Potter-esque housemate (he lives under the stairs) and is surely the most-talented reacher I have yet to meet... in 4 years he has gone from never touching rock to ticking F8a slab, E7 ground-up, E6 onsight solo on grit, Font 7c+ boulders and E5 onsight. Don't worry I'll be breaking his legs soon as an experiment to see if it would slow him down at all.
Keep it creamy...
Saturday, 12 March 2011
Blog to Begin All Blogs...An Intro
Wow, that's a bit of a cocky blog title, but its not intended to be a showy one, more to show appreciation, gratitude, addiction,
OK....Love. I just said it, I Love blogs.
It's everything about them, and embaressingly, the word: blog It's just beautiful in every way; short, simple, instantly meaningful yet gobeldy-gook simultaneously. Serious, fictitious, anonymous, general, specific, blogs are a big source of inspiration for me, I realised. Albeit half an hour ago.
But it's been dawning on me for a few days now, I guess it's been that two of my housemates, and good mateys, Mason and Mikey have just started blogging about their really awesome climbing/crushing/puntering/inspiring exploits. Add the discovery of good blogs by people I sort of know and those I will never know. Equals the admittance that I really like blogs.
I have also always wanted a climbing blog too.... I'm a bit worried that it's an ego thing, but I'd like to think it might be a source of inspiration to someone, somewhere. :-)
This, combined with my less than crystal clear mentality I have decided to start blogging. As the two of my subjects could make for a fairly weak blogs individually are combined to make the super-est blog EVER!!!
So the deal is; my musings on blogs, life and climbing and potentially my life in general. And I'll try and make them as varied, inspiring and well-written I possibly can with the use of various graphical delightful cheats (Videos and photos and drawings, maybe graphs too....who knows!)
Stay tuned for good blogs, bad blogs, climbing and monkeying around!!!
Dunc :-D
OK....Love. I just said it, I Love blogs.
It's everything about them, and embaressingly, the word: blog It's just beautiful in every way; short, simple, instantly meaningful yet gobeldy-gook simultaneously. Serious, fictitious, anonymous, general, specific, blogs are a big source of inspiration for me, I realised. Albeit half an hour ago.
But it's been dawning on me for a few days now, I guess it's been that two of my housemates, and good mateys, Mason and Mikey have just started blogging about their really awesome climbing/crushing/puntering/inspiring exploits. Add the discovery of good blogs by people I sort of know and those I will never know. Equals the admittance that I really like blogs.
I have also always wanted a climbing blog too.... I'm a bit worried that it's an ego thing, but I'd like to think it might be a source of inspiration to someone, somewhere. :-)
This, combined with my less than crystal clear mentality I have decided to start blogging. As the two of my subjects could make for a fairly weak blogs individually are combined to make the super-est blog EVER!!!
So the deal is; my musings on blogs, life and climbing and potentially my life in general. And I'll try and make them as varied, inspiring and well-written I possibly can with the use of various graphical delightful cheats (Videos and photos and drawings, maybe graphs too....who knows!)
Stay tuned for good blogs, bad blogs, climbing and monkeying around!!!
Dunc :-D
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