Colossal is the theme of the blog for better and worse, this week, although unfortunately it isn't due to a colossal amount of routes.....yet.
Since Thursday's successful trip to Tremadog, in which Mikey has had a write up on his new route, The Philtrum, which received its 2nd ascent at the hands of Ed Booth on Sunday the 27th, confirming the grade at E6 6b....decent!! You can read Si Panton's write up on the V12 website here; http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/03/29/philtrum-e6-6b-craig-bwlch-y-moch/
Next up was an assignment due in 5:00pm friday...yikes! Luckily, it was fairly straightforward River Habitat Survey....zzzzzzzz. Saturday was also spent making headway into an essay whilst the sun shone outside.
Sunday promised a trip to LPT and with any luck a 7a+ redpoint, in way of a bit of training, despite the fact my heart lay in the Pass. Any dreams were however thwarted by a colossal error....leaving my rock-boots at home...d'oh!!! The day however was not lost, I ran up the F5+, and the F6a twice in Charlie's softer than 'kitten fur' shoes, and had a play on I've been a bad, bad boy F7c on toprope whilst Mikey tried to redpoint it. I am unsure on how to feel about it as a potential future redpoint project, it has some fairly steady sections, but a few wild moves where I struggled to keep my feet on... but anyway it was cool to have a go...
Monday saw more work done, but an escape to the slate quarries with Mikey (again!), visiting Colossus wall, a place where I have unfinished business, with the wall's namesake... Colossus E3 5c. Last March I had a go but intimidated by the steepness of the wall and the fact it looked wet higher up, I bailed by the 3rd bolt. This time, I was sure it would go better, I would defeat Colossus despite my diminutive stature.... Up by the second bolt I pulled on a nice positive crimp to give me some security from greasing off the slopey one I had with my left, but instead of upward motion I felt a thump on my forehead as I prised a rugby-ball sized block of slate off the wall! Glad to be wearing a lid, I composed myself and carried on up. The crux proved to be a bit pumpy, and technical, but I enjoyed every second of it, especially the wild dynamic crossover I made to the ledge that marks the end of the difficulties. Topping out, I was once again awash with the adrenal highs of a good fight into the unknown, reminding me the reason for getting out of your comfort zone. As I basked in the glorious March sun (and my own self satisfaction), I belayed Mikey up it for his warm-up. I then gave Mikey a belay on Major Headstress an E4/5 6a, then seconded it. I managed to get through the crux clean but stopped concentrating and fell off a 5b/c layback move then again trying to go direct to Mikey...woops! Fantastic climbing on that wall though... Great Balls of Fire, E4 6a is set firmly in my sights!
Tuesday saw a colossal training session at the Indy Wall on Anglesey, a few runs on the F6b(7a?) circuit, and then back to trying to redpoint the F7a+/b(7c?) circuit. Managed to get a new highpoint, on the final section, but just lost power on the unhelpful 'elephant ears' hold. However, this bodes well for my fitness. I've given up on trying any hard boulder problems now, and my power is dwindling a bit... Finished off with a fingerboard session doing frenchies on the Jugs and then the slopers, and then just did a 'pump session' where I just traversed around the feature wall trying to maintain a steady pump, I then moved on to traversing the top-rope walls and onto the lead walls before heading home for press-ups, sit-ups and beans on toast...
I am currently battling the colossal amount of Psyche I have, to instead finish my essay and then.....
Onto PEMBROKE!!!! YYEEEEEHHAAAA!!! Should be a mint little trip, heading down with Florence the Machine, Davey Morse, Shivvers and a couple of cars worth of BUMS, including Mikey and Mason...pretty keen to be honest with you, so many routes to do!
Now on to a couple of Blogs for you to peruse...
First up is a mate of mine from the shire who has now moved on to Scotland, but he writes a really good blog, with nice abstract views on everyday life, and climbing of course: http://dominicjeff.blogspot.com/
Next up is a Guy I have met once or twice, but is a mate of Mason's, and despite being a handy little pocket rocket, is always genuinely psyched for other's achievements which I really respect.. Guy VG's blog: http://knowhereboy.blogspot.com/2011/03/consolidation.html
Peace out.
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