"54-46 was my number, ohh yeeaaah"
I was bricking it, I've heard a lot of 'E5' being bandied around, despite this I set off knowing the first bit from previous ground-up efforts to be scary but easy. First bolt clipped, I began my mantra "I am Johnny Dawes' illegitimate love-child, I will cruise this". I startled myself moving past the first bolt, how could I be so chilled onsighting way above my ability?
"Right now someone has that number, ohh yeaaahh"
Up above the second bolt now, I falter. I know how to get into the crux but it's a little tricky. A quick foot swap and I am immersed, all small feet and thin side-pulls. I grab a good crimp at my full reach 'You forgot the number 1 rule of slate; don't overstretch!!'. Paddling my feet up, I match left foot and hand, rocking up into good holds and the next clip, a few strenuous moves and the next bolt is clipped, rushing I almost fall but nope, I'm into the jugs yarding my way up the final run-out, looking out over Moel Eilio, over Bangor and onto Anglesey, I'm BUZZING! I did it, I tried hard and did it!
|Heading the Shot: THIN! |
(c) Nikki off UKC
(stolen photo as I cleverly forgot my camera)
The next day, everyone was paired up and Al had to work, so I followed Ballsford to Parisella's Cave so that we could both send Left Wall Traverse (V8), neither of us did, but we both made better links and got some shweeet beta for the start! Also was reet good training!
Having felt smothered by the rain in North Wales, Jess and I headed to Glossop to visit her Dad, their awesome new puppy, Woody and so that I could pull some moves on the fabled Gritstone.
Thursday dawned bright and clear, so 'Team North Wales' consisting of Dave Morse, Josh Marshall and I headed to Curbar, or 'Sandbag crag' as it shall now be known. Having not climbed on grit much, or for a while I declined the offer of first lead, which was valiantly taken up by Josh. He fought the good fight with Maupassant (HVS 5a) for a while before declaring man-down and sending me up into the jaws of the layback flake!
|Josh fighting the good fight on Maupassant.|
(c) Dave Morse
|Dave on Insanity|
|Dave, happy topping out on The Toy, E1 5c|
Friday turned out to be slightly colder than the day before and we hurriedly got warmed up on a couple of moderate problems, a flakey throw for a flat hold and a lovely little arete with a slopey, horrible top-out. After some spankings on a few other problems, Chris Todd headed over to Zippy's traverse (Font 7b), we all had a go, Chris got close, but no send! Josh headed up to the Green Traverse (Font 7a) to get the beta from Big Ron Fawcett, with the rest of us close behind. I felt that being fairly competant at the grade it should go for me, but no luck for any of us, and so we were sent packing with our tails between our legs once more! So we headed over to the Grand Hotel block, home to Not To Be Taken Away (Font 6c), the start felt a bit greasy, but after a few false starts, Dave was up on the ramp, faltering around the tricky high move he took the fall. I had a few goes but was really struggling with the start. Luckily, after failing on the first moves a few times, I got properly established and clicked into that focussed mind-set, concentrated on my feet and cruised to the top!
|Not To Be Taken Away; Classic.|
(c) Dave Morse
|Josh putting in a great effort on D.I.Y.|
|Woody and Jess watching the rabbits...N'awww|