Your own desert island paradise... It's closer than you realise...

And the name of your new favourite place??

Pabbay and Mingulay, two uninhabited islands on the Southern end of the Outer Hebrides off the West Coast of bonnie Scotland. Ok so maybe they won't be yours, but they have certainly earnt themselves a solid place in my list of favourite climbing destinations. And it seems they have this effect upon most people who go there, even without weather as good as we were lucky to have.

A group of 11 fun-loving trad crushers loosely based around having attended Bangor University (with a couple of exceptions) were assembled by Jimmy Marjot, and after various people saying yes then no, and some organisational fuck-ups, we all finally merged in Oban, Scotland on May the 26th.

After a late and long ferry journey from Oban to Barra, we hopped over a fence into a grassy field and eventually fell asleep despite the insistence of the Corncrakes that we stay awake. Soon enough, sunlight and the morning came and we packed up and giddily boarded the 'Boy James' in which, Donald and his crew took us off to our home for the next 7 days, Pabbay.

Leaving Oban

Mark, George and Mason all show their psyche in different ways...

Off to Pabbay!!

As we turned towards our landing spot, I could hardly believe my eyes; a beauitful, pristine beach of white sand leading into the clearest, blue-est sea I had ever seen. It was like something out of a holiday brochure to the Caribbean! After boarding the scarily small landing boat, we were soon back on dry land... and what a place! A ruined house sat a few hundred metres away, the beach a few hundred metres to the North, and with any luck a metric fuck-load of perfect, juggy gneiss to the South-West. We had some grub and after a while everyone left to go and sample our first taste of Pabbay climbing.

"Oooh, Heaven is a place on Earth"
Pabbay Campsite

From now on life would be beautifully simple; eat, sleep, drink and climb, until we got picked up and taken to Mingulay for the remaining 3 and a half days of the trip. A real adventure, we even had to buy all our food in Tesco's before we got there, I sure as hell hoped we had enough, or we'd be experiencing those stories about pirates being left on desert Islands to starve. Bad times.

I won't bore you with a day-by-day, jug-by-humungous, grippy jug account of the climbing, I'll give you the top 5 highlights and boy is this going to be tricky!

• Onsighting Sugar Cane Country (E4 6a), was the highlight of the trip for me. It has been a route I have wanted to do for years, ever since I saw a picture of a steep wall of perfect gneiss with a line of crimps weaving up it. As soon as I saw the picture, I knew that one day I had to climb it. But after 2 days of climbing I felt tired and wasn't sure I could pull a lead like that out of the bag. After a quick warm up I racked up and just took it move by move and after a good fight topped out elated! 

• Spit in Paradise (E4 6a) was another moment where I doubted my ability, except this route was much more of a team effort. Ben, Fingers and I had all been recommended the route by everyone who had done it, "Three E4 pitches going through some amazing ground, and a wild abseil in!". It was steep that much was certain, but would we be able to do it? The ab in didn't help, right down the line of the route except the further you slid down the rope the further away the route got. Luckily Ben crushed the first, bird-infested pitch, I got the the next slightly sandy pitch, and Fingers the short, but wild corner to top out!

• Spring Squill (E1 5b), pitch one of this route is absolutely amazing - HUGE jugs blasting up some great overhanging territory! Just great fun and confidence inspiring so you just run it out between the obvious bomber placements. Big smiles on this one.

• Corncrakes for Breakfast (E2 5c) did this on a very hot day and thought I was going to melt onto the rock. The crux felt desperate on the small holds (for Pabbay). Upon abbing back down it became apparent how steep the wall is!

• Voyage of Faith (E3 5c) climbed as a three with Gwen and Fingers, great fun a real nice route, though we did get a bit lost due to the lack of topos for Mingulay and the vague route descriptions caused us to do a completely horizontal traverse pitch! By chance I got pitch 2, (the best one!) which involves a brilliant rising traverse above the lip of a massive sea-cave. Belay penguin chocolate bars and jokes made it a real fun, sociable route! 

Callum crushing Sugar Cane Country (E4 6a)
(c) Gwen Lancashire

Gwen and Al roasting on our first route on Pabbay;
The 4 star classic Prophecy of Drowning

Gwen cruising Corncrakes for Breakfast (E2 5c)

Ben on the epic ab-in to Spit in Paradise (E4 6a)

Me bridging wide on pitch 2 of Spit in Paradise

Fingers starting up the wild last pitch of
Spit in Paradise whilst Ben and I enjoy the situation

Mark Almack crushing The Herbrudean (E5 6a)

Dun Mingulay and Yours Truly

Belay buddies! Voyage of Faith (E3 5c)

Finally after having Faith in my convictions, we are back on route!
I begin the traverse over the lip of the Sea Cave!

Gwen as chilled as ever pitch 3 Voyage of Faith

However, for me at least, Pabbay and Mingulay were so much more than just climbing destinations. Pabbay was a perfect island, we were the only inhabitants and it felt like a million miles from the hassles of normal civilisation. Mingulay felt slightly different, the other team of climbers, team of scientists carrying out research on the bird life of the island and the daily groups of tourists dropped off for day trips made it feel a lot less wild and closer to civilisation. However, the bird-life there was absolutely amazing, with Puffins and Bonxies present, whereas they weren't on Pabbay. The Bonxies were my favourite, massive brown sea-gulls that once you ventured into their territory they would 'Bonx' you. This involves flying right at your face before turning up at the very last minute! I have never experienced birds so comfortable with human presence, they were totally chilled and I got to see many birds very close-up. Bonxies (obviously) but I also had some close encounters with Razorbills, who despite looking threatening, are actually wimps, I climbed right past one on The Arch Deacon (A 4-star HVS) and it didn't do owt. Fulmars aren't wimps however, and if you get too close they'll puke on you, luckily I never got hit, but it was a constant fear...

Fingers getting Bonxed!

Overall, Pabbay was the better island (I think most of us agreed on this), but both islands are worth a visit. Our 7 - 3 days split between Pabbay and Mingulay was perfect, we spent the majority of our time, on our own island of adventure, but still experienced the best of Mingulay too. 

Mingulay from Pabbay

The Great Arch

Late evening Sun on Pabbay 

A nice photo on Pabbay

Pabbay Sunset

Looking North towards the beach on Pabbay

Pabbay from Mingulay

Mingulay's Beach

It was a sad day when Donald came to pick us up, but it had started raining so it wasn't too bad! At the last minute Scooby made a dash for island freedom, and Al nearly forgot her!

What a great trip, thanks to Fingers for organising the boat and getting a brilliant group of people together, and thanks to all those great people for coming along and making it such a good trip. I'll remember it for a long time with a big old smile on my face.

Fingers, the beautiful man!

The people I went with were real MEN. No messing.

Team photo on the ruined house, Pabbay. (c) Will Nicholls

If you are a climber, or even someone in search of cool, quiet, beautiful places, Scotland is the place for you! As long as the weather is good it is a really amazing place to go. Pabbay and Mingulay potentially being two of the most amazing places.

Top Tips for potential Pabbay and Mingulay visitors:

• Take lots of TASTY food. More than you think you'll need. Big days equal big appetites. Me and Al didn't really bring enough food, our evening meals were good and big, but never big enough to save for lunch and a third of a Soreen and a chocolate bar aren't enough for during the day. Niether is one bag of porridge oats. Schoolboy error. 

• Get fit. In every sense of the word. You want to be climbing fit for these islands as the style is steep, juggy and sustained. You want to feel fine at having to use your arms everyday for the whole trip, there are no slabs here. If you aren't into walking/running, get into it. Due to a lack of time I haven't been running or fell-running for a long time and the big, hard walk-ins on the islands leave you feeling pretty tired before you even grab your first jug. Mingulay's walk-ins are bigger but on the most part have better paths making them easier than the grass/rock yomps found on Pabbay.

• Don't drop your big blue camalot into the sea or plug your little blue metolius cam into a crack and expect Ballsford to get it out. He's a punter. It really sucks losing £100 worth of kit on a trip.

• Take and use sunscreen. Just 'cos you are in Scotland doesn't mean you won't get savagely burnt when it is hot. It does get hot in Scotland sometimes, honest.  

• Take a camera and a spare battery. You'll want to remember every second of it.

• Photocopy the guide so you can take the topo and description down without having to rely on your camera's battery. The guide is too big to take down, a piece of paper is perfect, as the leader can carry it no bother. Gwen and Mark did this which was perfect, I considered it but was too lazy to do so.
• Enjoy it, hunt out the 4-star classics and you won't go far wrong.

Return to Gogarth...

The day started the night before for me, really. Mason had expressed his desire to do The Cad, meaning that Blue Peter was on the cards for me. All night I tried to sleep but could just feel my heart thumping in my chest as I imagined huge, gear-ripping lobs smashing me into the rocks below, I eventually got to sleep at about 4:30am and was awake by 7:30am. A half-eaten breakfast before packing and we were off on our way to the Holy Island and the adventure playground that is Gogarth. Luckily, we would first be swapping partners with some guy Al knew from Hull, meeting in Morrisons, I had a free round 2 with breakfast, and wolfed down a bacon buttie, thanks Martin. 

My partner for the morning was a vet called Andy, who weirdly had a son my age at Aber Uni. He said he was a bit rusty so wasn't keen for anything above 5b, as I had The Sind (E3 5c) in mind. Instead, we opted for The Savage, which gets given E2 5b, I was on rope-gun duty, so racked up and abbed in. The first pitch was ungraded, though the second got 5a it was tricky and not made easier by my partner's tight grip on the rope below me! After a bit of dustiness, I emerged into the light and bought Andy up. After a much less faff-free changeover than I envisaged, I stepped up into the 3-D funkiness that is Yellow Walls climbing. Expecting some sustained or bold 5b sequences I was pleasantly surprised to find a couple of fairly well protected 5b moves into an enjoyable finish. As we had gone quick, I imagined we would have been quicker than Al and Martin, so to enable Andy some leading mileage, we headed over to the busiest crag at the Big G, Castell Helen. We abbed in and Andy set off up pitch 1 of Rap, a nice, juggy, VS 4c. Secretly, I hoped for Andy to take a while so Al would go and do something else with Martin and I would escape Blue Peter. 

No such luck, as I got to the belay, Al popped his head over the top and said he was keen to go to North Stack Wall. Suddenly, the dormant butterflies in my stomach took some cocaine or something and went absolutely mental. I carried on up to the top of the crag and Al asked what I was keen for...

"Errrr whatever you are mate, I'm easy", I replied.

"So North Stack Wall then?" Al said, a mischievous glint in his eye as he revelled in his desire to climb The Cad, E6 6a.

"Err yeah, ok, I'm totally shitting it, but go on then, you gotta be in it to win it, eh?" Said I, my heart thumping in my throat. 

So we headed over to North Stack, sorted the rack and walked in. On arriving, the wall was out of the sun and the tide was too far in for Al to do The Cad first, so it was down to me to kick the crush off. We went over to the top of the huge Parliament House Cave to scope it out with the guide and I tried to justify it as looking slabby, although this didn't work so well I did spot a small ledge at 3/4 height. Something to aim for then.

Racked up, I soon found myself at the bottom staring up at the dark, looming, undercut 40m wall. The start blasted straight up through an overhang to a peg. I got a couple of good wires in below but was fair pumped once I clipped the peg. Trying to compose and sort a sequence by the peg, the pump increased before I committed to a brilliant technical traverse on small edges and side-pulls, all the while the peg got further and further away. Now the real boldness kicked in, I fiddled in some uninspiring gear and began trying to shake the lactic from my forearms. More tricky moves followed until a slight easing, I continued to fiddle in gear that you most likely wouldn't hang your jacket on. 

Before I knew it, the ledge was looming above me, reaching up it wasn't as positive as expected but I surprised myself by just open-handing it, getting my feet up and crossing into a jug. As has happened before, the quality of the move and my feeling of executing it well despite my anxiety and fear kicked me into in enjoyment mode, and I whooped at the top of my voice, to signify my joy at being 30m up a vertical wall with little in the way of bomber gear to stop a fall...

I also sort of thought it would be all over by now, and that I'd get some bomber gear in. I managed to get some semi-good gear but not quite as good as expected, though now I found that all the good foot holds were in the wrong place! Some more tricky moves ensued, by-passing possible gear placements until it eased off a bit. Right at the end of the flake-crack I placed an absolutely bomber Rock 3 and knew it was in the bag! Proclaiming it's solid nature to the world, I clipped in and eye-balled the end of the route; the angle kicked back again, but I could see a line of brilliant jugs leading up the prow to the top, I set off, placing a cam (just in case) and romped up to the top, savouring the moment before pulling over and screaming at the top of my voice! After setting up a slightly dodgy belay I bought Al up.

Hansjorg Auer on the final juggy romp of Blue Peter, E4 5c.
(c) Hot Aches Productions, (cheekily nicked this off their facebook!)

Al got to the top, still had cold hands, and had stubbed his toe low down, I could imagine how cold he had got out of the sun and in the wind as I was cooling down fast and I was in the sun and had been physically active for the last 45mins or so. In addition to this, the tide was still not far enough out for Al to do The Cad, and by the time it was we would be cold and would only have time for the one route. Graciously, Al said he wouldn't make me second the Cad as he thought it would be an onsightable E6 for me in the future (gulp!) He racked up for 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea, but we stumbled across a bird ban sign. 

For a complete change, Al was at a loss as to what to do, I said I'd belay him on whatever, but lacking in inspiration, we headed home. I was sort of relieved as I felt pretty beat up from climbing Blue Peter in total control, with some real brutal bicep, forearm and calf ache. I have been buzzing ever since, I know I say this every time, but Blue Peter must be my hardest route to date, in which I had to draw upon all the skills I have developed throughout my climbing career: Boldness, confidence, pacing, efficient placement of gear and fitness/ability to deal with steep and sustained climbing. I am now mega psyched to gain the ability to climb the other test-piece routes on this wall, and am supremely inspired by The Cad most of all at the moment I think, so I best get better, fitter and bolder!

The Cad... One of the most inspirational E6 testpieces in the UK?
(c) Mike Miller

In case you haven't already guessed I'm pretty chuffed with myself  though am fully expecting to get spanked on an E1 next time I go climbing... Having got away with climbing a bold, solid E4 the climbing Gods will want repayment I imagine...

I also managed a quick evening's bouldering in the Ogwen valley, the highlight being Red Sky Wall which gets V5 now but I think it is closer to it's old V4 grade, I surprised myself by managing it first go. Here's a picture of Livingstone on it.

Red Sky Wall V4/5, Clogwyn y Tarw.

I have now finished university, having done my last exam (potentially ever!!!), I have had my first driving lesson and am soon to be heading to Pabbay and Mingulay, and I have a potential job for the winter... in short life is good and I feel well blessed by the Gods. Hope wherever you are, whatever you are doing, life is going your way too...

Variety is the spice of life...

Due to the intense amount of university work I have had of late, I have neglected from posting. Since I tried What a Difference a Day Makes, I've been getting out every now and then and there has been some considerable variety to my activities, which is always good! I'll try and keep waffle low on this post, and instead illustrate what I have been up to using pictures (not always mine) with a bit of chat on each photo. 

Iron Crag, Thirlmere, The Lake District.


The day dawned bright and sunny, after Bubbles and I had sorted some stuff for the weekend's work we boshed off to Thirlmere, and on up to Iron Crag after a quick drink and weasel through a tube.

Bubbles stuck in a tube!

 I kicked the day off with Solidarity, E1 5b, a route with a stiff, dusty section low down followed by bold, airy, but positive climbing up a corner and rib higher up. Very nice!

Solidarity, E1 5b (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbles then strapped his cock on and went for a route high on his tick list; Hiddenite, E2 5c. After some upping and downing, fiddling kit in he showed excellent form by blasting to the top stopping only to slot a wire in. Great effort Booblar!!

Seconding Hiddenite, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley

Next up it was my lead once again. I had, had my eye on one of the E4's of the crag but was secretly wishing for something a bit less taxing that I would have a higher chance of success on; something in the order of E3. No such luck, I set off up a new E4 6a; Amaballite, but after struggling up the overhanging starting groove, I found my self having to commit to a ledge above two reasonable runners, though in my wimpish state I wasn't sure how much I trusted them considering I couldn't see a runner coming for a looong way. After much pussy-footing around I backed off. SOFT. On abbing down Bubbles said he had found a runner a few moves off the ledge and declared my runners good enough. Get on it, it looks ace.

Strenuous starting groove of Amaballite, E4 6a. (c) Tom Ripley

Great Scotch Road-Trip; Skye, Torridon, Cairngorms


After working for the weekend, we risked the dodgy forecast and blasted up North of the border, took a lovely, scenic detour through Glasgow to pick up the beautiful, Jimmy 'Fingers' Marjot. We carried on up North, stopping to buy food in Fort Bill and eventually arrived at Glenbrittle, Skye at 8pm in pouring rain. Apparently it was due to stop at 4:00am, so we set our alarms for 4:30am and tried to get to sleep.

Road Trippin' (c) Tom Ripley

Upon waking up, we found it was still raining, albeit gently at 4:30, and heavier again at 6:30. Eventually we awoke to sunlight at 8:30am to find our objective; the Cuillin Ridge coated in snow. It was already too late to do it, but it looked as though we might not do it on this trip either.

The Cuillin Ridge, Skye, coated in fresh snow

Instead we headed to Kilt Rock and Bubbles lead his first Extreme Rock route; Grey Panther, E1 5b. It's a real ace route, but right in the wind so we bailed to the cafe and planned the next day.

Bubbles crushing Grey Panther, E1 5b.

My first driving lesson didn't go too well... (c) Tom Ripley

The snow was not forecast to melt so we headed over to Diabaig, Torridon. This is one of THE most beautiful places I have ever been fortunate enough to visit. We arrived at last light, pitched our tent and had dinner washed down by a fine ale each and fell asleep once more. The morning wasn't as bright as yesterday but we soldiered on.

Torridon... B-E-A-Utiful.

First up I led the Pillar; E2 5b which at 45m with numb hands and feet and small, spaced gear was fun! A brilliant route!

On The Pillar, E2 5b. (c) Tom Ripley

Next up Jimmy cruised Route Two; HVS 5a, and after trying Northumberland Wall, E2 5c, Bubbles did Route Three; E1 5b with a top pitch very reminiscent of St Victus' Dance in Squamish.

Fingers on Route Two, HVS 5a (c)Tom Ripley

Diabaig. (c)Tom Ripley

We then headed over to Aviemore in the hope of getting a quick route in at Creag Dubh before picking up some skis in Edinburgh for Bubbles' Alaska expedition. However, we had forgotten the larger amount of snow-fall on the East coast and how much colder this meant it was. After a cold night's shivering we drove straight to Glasgow to drop Fingers off before heading to Edinburgh, where the nice man at Anatom gave me four free pairs of Teko socks and some insoles for my boots! (I fervently suggest you get some Teko socks, they are great and for me, women's size medium are the best fitting sock I have ever had!)

Euro-sport in the English Riviera, Empire of the Sun f7b


After a very successful hitch from the Lakes to Exeter in just two lifts, with ne'er more than 5mins spent at the side of the road, I knew I had to crack on with the dissertation. However, after a few days of remembering how much of an uphill struggle it felt like, I gave an old climbing friend, Jerome, a text to see if he fancied a catch up.

Luckily he did, and I surprised him by requesting we go to the very un-traditionally angled Empire wall. I finally felt like I was ready for 7b and I knew Empire of the Sun was a solid tick at the grade and also very European in style; pumpy, with good holds all the way, and therefore good fitness training for my trad goals of the year.

After a quick traverse along the bottom of the wall to warm-up, Jerome whizzed up and put the draws in for me, deciding that going all out and trying to flash this would be unwise given the short day, I dogged it bolt to bolt getting the sequence sorted for a clean ascent. Jerome then put the clips in Avenged (F7c+), now the weather reared its ugly head in the form of a massive hail-storm! The top of the route began to get wet but after sitting it out for a bit it seemed to dry up enough for me to consider going for a redpoint attempt. I surprised myself by getting past the crux, but forgot a foot placement on the next hard throw and dropped it! After a quick rest, I pulled back on and got to the last hard move, off of a poor pocket only to slip off! The water had run-down into the back of it! Gutted, that I could have done the route in two halves, I did the move and carried on to the chains.

After Jerome cruised a lap on Avenged, the weather came in again!!!! Jerome offered to go up and dry the pocket out for me, but even after doing that, the weather knew and rained again! The water was now running in streaks down the top of the route, so a redpoint was almost out of the question. However, I had another go for some fitness training and despite messing up the crux, I got a move higher before running out of juice! I carried on to the top with a rest or two and cleaned the route as Jerome had work soon.

What a route! One of the best sport routes I have been on in the UK without doubt, and one I am keen to get back on when I'm back home!

Trem-fest, Bwlch y Moch


For a quick break from dissertation work, and due to the promise of a good prize draw, Bubbles, Ollie Burrows, Gwen and I headed to Tremadog for the clean-up festival. We arrived early and helped put the tent up before me and Bubbles opted to clean Grotto, an esoteric VS on the Christmas Curry Buttress. Donning water-proofs, we expected light drizzle, but on arriving at the first belay, the rain was coming in thick and fast. Abandoning the idea of climbing Grotto, Bubbles put in a commendable effort climbing the original Christmas Curry top pitch in a total waterfall. I seconded and cleaned as I went, and then lowered Bubbles into Grotto so he could clean it as he went down. Luckily, the sun had come out by now, and the crag was drying quickly. We walked down having carried out our duties and tried to decide what to do that would be dry and that Bubbles hadn't done already. We managed to postpone the raffle and after finding the Neb still under heavy cleaning activity, we remembered that neither of us had done the Daddy Cool/The Sting combination on Merlin Buttress. I set off up the main Daddy Cool (E2 5c) pitch and really enjoyed the positive, burly start which then gave way to less secure, technical in balance climbing up top.

Pulling the overlap on Daddycool, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbles joined me and scooted across the 5a pitch to the bottom of his pitch, the Sting (E2 5c). I struggled on this pitch for some unknown reason, height maybe? But was soon chilling at the belay ready to race up Ths Sting after Tom as the call for "Raffle in 45 minutes" had been given! Bubbles up and downed a bit before slipping off, so I instructed him to aid out and promptly raced up after him, clean but only just. It is a very well protected pitch but very tough 5c in my opinion.

We raced over to the beer house, grabbed a pint each and started rubbing our lucky charms, it worked out for me as I got a Petzl Bug rucksack (flogged for £30) and a Beanie. We then got Fish and Chips from Porthmadog and got pissed!

Awaking to rain, I cashed in my agreement with Burrows; I bought him dinner the night before and was treated to a lovely breakfast! We left and chilled in Bangor for a bit before deciding a quick boulder at Braichmelyn was in order. Bubbles and Ollie flashed The V1 arete and the V2 ramp, Mike turned up and crushed Central Wall V5 after a surprising amount goes considering he has flashed V7 - it's not easy!

Boulder scenes (c) Tom Ripley

A Righteous Day at the Promised Land, Gogarth 


With my dissertation handed in, Bubbles asked if I wanted to go climbing, to which I unsurprisingly answered, yes! We originally planned to head to Rhoscolyn, but with the recent rain we thought Fallen Block Zawn may be wet so despite Bubbles' epic the previous day on The Moon, we headed to Gogarth.

The offending item.

On arrival, we were soon joined by Mason and Jon Ratcliffe who were heading for Rat Race, an E3 I have wanted to do for a while. Upon arriving at the racking up spot I was still unsure what I was keen for, then remembered I hadn't done Aardvark, E2 6a. I racked up and we set off down the approach path.

Aardvark, E2 6a. (c) Tom Ripley

I found the bottom of Aardvark harder and bolder than expected, with in my opinion, a 5c sequence around 2 poor RPs well above the last kit. I got a bit freaked out as I knew the top was supposed to be a lot harder than the bottom. However, I carried on and managed to get a load of good runners before sprinting the top. I'd say there wasn't any 6a on it, so it felt more E3 5c to me, though maybe if you are tall with fat fingers it feels different.

Mad, Bad, and Dangerous to know - Tom Ripley

Bubbles put in a good effort, seconding it clean, then had a crack at Fail Safe, E2 5b. But wasn't feeling it so suggested Cordon Bleu, HVS 5b. I agreed, and got the gear out for him. We headed over and started off the sight-seeing trip that it is. Along the way, we bumped into Al and Jon and Rat Race, and Bubbles began to complain at how crap our route was, though he perked up once he had climbed the tricky crux. Although the climbing isn't hard for the most part, I was simply enjoying being out in the sunshine and cruising along halfway up the Main Cliff.

We topped out and returned to the gearing up area along with Al and Jon. After sitting around, eating sandwiches and chatting, it was time for some more routes. Al and Jon headed for Run Fast, Run Free (E5 6a), whilst I headed for Snakebite Wall, a tough E4 6a at Holyhead Mountain. Snakebite Wall is a really great route, with good hard sustained climbing up a vertical wall into the top of Penny (E4 6a). I felt like I climbed well and kept going despite being savagely pumped, but I made the mistake of placing too much gear in the Penny crack, and fell just a few moves away from the end of the hard climbing - Gutted!!

Snakebitten (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbes then made a clean ascent of the hard King Bee Crack, HVS 5a (sandbag), a route he had dogged late last year. I seconded it, though found it very tricky due to high fatigue levels, it isn't very positive and is very burly! After abbing to get my gear back, we packed up and bumped into Jon and Al walking back, having done Run Fast, Run Free, and were greeted by a brilliant sunset as we got back to the cars! A great day, which was a great reward for all my slaving over my dissertation.

A good end to a righteous day at the Big G

An Afternoon of Faffing, Fiendish Beamish f7a+/b


On the Sunday, I had told Al that I'd be keen for a half day, enabling me to getsome climbing and revison done. Aiming to meet him about 2, he soon texted back asking to go early but be back early, unfortunately his idea of early was about 3 hours later than mine, and after a small textual argument, we ended up going out at 12. Choosing the Orme, we sped off only to be stuck in bank holiday parade traffic for a good hour or so. After extrapolating ourselves we sped over to the Lighthouse Crags to try Red Meat, a new 7b addition to the Orme. However, upon abbing down I found the route wet and covered in birds, we bailed and by this time had lost a good 3 hours!!

Notice Board Crag,
Fiendish Beamish goes up the centre of the crag from the 'V' at the base.

Luckily, plan B was a simple one, go to Notice Board Crag. We warmed up on Leaning Jowler, a really great, steep F6b, and Al put the clips in Fiendish Beamish F7a+/b as he lowered off. After I stripped Leaning Jowler, Al set off up Fiendish, but stalled above the 4th bolt, after upping and downing a few times, he downclimbed to the deck and offered me the rope ends!! Nervously, I tied on and blasted upwards, stopping to take in beta from Al on the moves. Soon I found myself at Al's highpoint, a quick rearrangement of my right hand in the pocket to facilitate a match, and a quick slap out right found me totally committed, eye-balling the 5th clip. I pulled up an armful of slack but was so pumped I fumbled the clip and grabbed the draw, as I nearly took a massive whipper! Clipping in, I rested and then climbed to the top, trying a different sequence on the way down and beta-ing Al up. He duly cruised it this go, and it was soon my turn... I again felt apprehensive as the pump from the last go was still present in my forearms, but I strapped it on and got to it. Once into the crux, I moved quickly and aggressively, slapping my way between the holds, and before I knew it, I had done the crux and after a tricky couple of last moves was clipping the chains, chuffed at my hardest redpoint to date!

What a Difference a Day Makes...

A day can make all the difference, in many ways...

I aged a whole year in just 24 hours, turning 22 when I had been only 21 the day before! All very unfair, but I did get some chocolate, coca-cola, ribena, climbing gear and money! Spent the day chilling with Jess, then went to a beach BBQ with a load of people for a joint birthday doo with Burdy, who turns 23 (Ha!) on the 1st.

What a difference a day makes, the paranoia about time passing too quickly grew...

Feeling guilty about neglecting my dissertation, I tucked my vagina in and boshed out 1000 words on Saturday. What a difference a day makes, the guilt melted away...

The next day, with minus an hour's sleep, I was picked up by Ollie and owing to the amazing weather, sped off to the Llanberis Pass, to a theme-tune of Bubble's choosing (Frank Sinatra - since when was Sinatra psyche music?!?). A quick stop to pick up Mark Reeves, and we were safely parked in the CC car park (Oooooh! Posh!), it seemed like it might be a mafter, but Ollie was keen for SS Special on the Grochan, and I was unsure of whether it would be too cold on the 'dark-side' of the Pass. Ollie boshed SS Special, and I got a free return ticket to it. I lead it in 1st year and thoroughly enjoyed it then, and this time, good effort younger me... it's tricky! By the time I reached the belay it was mafting (hot/boiling/roasting for those not with me lingo innit), so we hot-footed it over to Hidden Wall, behind Gravestones. I had a few routes in mind on this slice of the Pass, Rimsky Korsakov (E4/5 6a) and What A Difference A Day Makes (E4 6a) being right up there on things to have a bash at.

Cor blimey! Roasting hot weather in the Pass,
Clogwyn y Grochan the obvious crag on the sunny side.

I was told it may be wet so left Ollie chilling whilst I sussed out whether either was dry, and if I wanted to get on either one of them. Turning the corner, I didn't know what I wanted to see; a lot of wetness rendering the routes un-climbable but a wasted journey to the dark-side, or bone-dry rock and then I'd have no excuse but to go for it? I found Rimsky totally dry (get on up there if you are capable; it looks mega) but What a Difference had some wetness at the base. Looking closely at them both, Rimsky looked to have small gear which I wasn't sure would be good for forearms as tender as mine; I might get too pumped to put good kit in. What a Difference had bigger cracks in and it turned out the wetness wasn't affecting the climbing too much at the start. Walking back down to Ollie I wasn't sure whether to take the risk... luckily I manned up and got psyched - if you don't try, you'll never know!

So we boshed back up and I got psyched for a bit of lactic poisoning on What a Difference... The start went well, I managed it without the wet bits and got some gear in and was feeling good, tempted out left by an undercut jug rail I found myself in a nice niche but off route...bollocks. After a lot of faffing and swapping cams over to get my gear back on-line, I made a tenuous series of moves rightwards and 'powered' in the loosest sense of the word up the wall into the real meat of the route. Not feeling 100% happy with the gear below my feet I put a good small wire in, but still the paranoia flows and I am pumped, VERY pumped. Still I came here for a fight so that's what I'm gonna give! I am power-screaming and whimpering at the same time  - each cancelling the other out into what I have now termed "power-whines". Half of my (small) brain said "HAVE IT!", the other said "This is freaking scary mate, is that gear good enough for you to even sit on it? Better get another bit in and sit on that, be a good boy".

I took tips from both and put some more gear in but battled on up, another piece of gear to go in but I'm so pumped I'm struggling to open krabs and can't get the wire I want, opt for the next one up which is luckily the right size. "It didn't look this hard from below, looked like jugs all over and that you could bridge out" I think but instead there are a few incuts hidden in a sea of dirty, unhelpful rock. I power-whine up to the next hold but instead of something positive I find nothing good enough for the state of my forearms. I fall, a small one really as my runner is close by. Forearms boxed, I hang around and then try to climb back to my last piece of gear to dog it out, but I'm too pumped in both forearm and brain so lower off, defeated.

I always have to find the lesson in these things and upon abbing down to clean the gear I realise how steep it is; my runners are hanging away from the wall like they would on a sport route, I also find a small, positive hold just above where I was looking for one, but also the route kicks back more above it and I didn't bring a big enough cam for a big crack at the top which will protect me for the final layback.

I have learnt a few things though:

• RELAX! Being the first hard trad route I've been on this year (Heading the Shot is sport), not being my style, I was mega tense, probably over-gripping, not finding the best body positions, and not shaking out that I can remember. With a more relaxed style, I would have done better. 
• Give 110%. I think I gave 100% on the route, but could I have squeezed a bit more out? 
• Listen to your instincts on gear size you spot from the ground. I almost knew it was blue camalot sized up there but hate carrying unnecessary weight. 
• Get on it again soon, or something else pumpy soon. You need to get fitter and better you fat bastard.

After cleaning it, Ollie boshed the Stebbing which gets E2 but is closer to HVS. I had also done this in 1st year so it was nice to revisit it in safety. Finally, to really knacker us out we walked back to the Grochan and linked the first 4c pitch of Spectre into Nea (HVS and VS respectively) before heading home. All in all a great day, and I think that once my calves, forearms and shoulders stop aching, I'll be fitter once more.

Right Wall, Bloody Sunday etc all feel a million miles away right now, but I'm staying optimistic, they are all only bits of rock. A bit more familiarity with the "dreaded pump" and it might become a good friend, no reason why not eh?

What a difference a day makes, I've grown older, made some good inroads into my dissertation and given myself the kick up the arse to knuckle down and try and get fitter, stronger and better to actually achieve my goals for this year.

Airtime.

Airtime, the antithesis of climbing, yet without the fall, looming or experienced, it would be a boring 2-dimensional exercise whereby half the fun would be taken away. If you aren't risking falling off then you aren't trying hard enough, but imagine if there was never the risk of falling? Top-roping classic routes in imperfect safety, just working out the moves and being fit and strong, except it wouldn't matter, you would just go for the most obvious sequence and if you couldn't do it, who cares?. Falling is a big part of climbing, and I like it that way. 

As with everyone, I find the thought of falling scary at the beginning of the season, but I enjoy climbing a lot more once I am comfortable with falling, and truth be told, I do quite enjoy falling. Big whippers, whilst scary are FUN!

A brilliant yet slightly naughty form of fall practice is bridge jumping. On a whim, and after we had exhausted our supplies of stale bread to throw at unsuspecting drunks, Livingbone, Bubbles, Ollie, Harry and I went and found a bridge, set up a suspect hauling system and a dynamic rope to jump on. Despite others' 100% psyche levels, no-one was keen to jump first, so I stepped up to the plate. I was apprehensive tying in, I knew the dynamic set up was fine, but the hauling system was unorthodox to say the least. Climbing over the railings, I was a bit scared but I knew I just had to commit. A split-second of control and it is out of your hands, you are falling, flying through the sky and suddenly, the rope catches and you swing around for a bit, as you are pulled up by your mates. 

This time was different, I jumped and fell; as usual, was caught; as usual but looking down, I grabbed the static but it was dangling underneath me, not above!? 

"What the F***!" 

Was my first thought, asking the guys above if it had snapped, they seemed to think it hadn't, though they weren't sure. In the end, they agreed with me so I asked them if they would be so kind as to lower down a new bit of rope? They obliged, and whilst I waited, I realised I had stopped swinging. Usually, whilst bridge jumping you are hauled back up before you stop swinging, but now I was dangling, hoping the hauling system would work and that I wouldn't have to be rescued (embarresing much?) Luckily, it worked and I was soon standing on solid bridge...phheww!

Jump psyche... Also putting on a brave face as I'm not sure if my pants are still clean...
(c) Tom Ripley

Seeing it safe, the rest of the crew jumped, without mishap, though Ollie and Harry did take a while to man up and jump, though Bubbles put in a commendable effort and went quick, unlike last time when he requested to be 'thrown overboard' as he couldn't bring himself to jump.

Remember kids; think carefully about eating that last biscuit cos' ropes snap sometimes...
(c) Tom Ripley 

After some amount of sleep, Eugene and I went to Penmaen Head on the A55, to go sport climbing. I wanted to get some early season mileage in, though was feeling ache-y from hauling people up and tired from the late night. First up we boshed a couple of Fr6a's; Helyg Crack and Red Handed, these went without mishap and so I decided to have a go at onsighting a 6c, Top Secret taking my fancy. I felt pretty good and confident, I was getting pumped, but I was working out the moves too. A tricky sequence to a bolt passed, I moved up and could taste success, spotting a good crimp rail, I grabbed it, unfortunately it was sloping, but I matched and tried to press on but fell. DAMN! De-pumping I carried on up to the top, chastising myself for not reading the sequence correctly. Eugene had a go but fell at the second and third bolts, came down and boshed it. After some lunch, I did the same, confidently flowing through moves I had been much more static and slow on before. Getting to the crux, a quick shake and I boshed the right sequence right to the top, Woopa! Next up, Eugene had a go at The Gimp Crimp, 7a after a slip low down, he boshed on to the top but came to a hault at the last bolt, unable to foresee a way to the chains he passed over to me. It looked desperate, so I didn't hold out much hope, but I went up and tried my very best, passing the lower crux, I rested well in the middle, got up and committed to the laybacks and slapped for the finishing jug! As I held it, I realised I'd left the quickdraws on the ground, so fumbled with my belay device and screwgate, getting a bit pumped and gripped, but psyched to have got it first go.

On Wednesday, I got the call from Mason that he was going for an evening Parisella's Cave hit, and did I want to join him and Laura? Yes I did, despite having had an Indy session the night before I desperately wanted to close my account on Left Wall Traverse (V8/Fr7c+). We got there and after a short warm up in Split Infinity (I always feel like such a punter not being able to warm up in the cave), I boshed Flake start to be sure I knew I could do the end of the full thing. Anyway, there were loads of beasts there trying some hard shit, and Mason added himself to that mix with some really brilliant links on Lou Ferrino, a powerful, steep, V10. Anyway, I had a load of mediocre efforts including one stupid one where I slightly messed up with my feet and let go thinking it not worth it! That last stupid little fail did not sit well with me, and I found myself in a very determined mindset. After a short rest and a banana (Thanks to Al and Laura for that one) I was pandered to by Laura who kindly brushed all the holds and got chalk ready at the halfway rest while I got focussed and booted up. This time up everything fell into place and I just focussed on getting the next hold, then the next etc, any mistake and I just kept going, trying to eak another move out of the attempt. Suddenly I found myself through the crux and starting the last tricky sequence down to the rest. My right foot wasn't quite correctly seated but I pressed on, all of a sudden my left hand popped (I didn't let go) and I found myself trying to grab a handhold whilst lying on the pad. One move away from the rest I had fallen, although it is not totally in the bag at that point, it is a hands-off rest so I could have rested until I felt fresh enough to finish. However, a brilliant triumph for tenacity! After this effort I could barely pull the starting moves so called it a day, but a great bit of training! Thanks to Al, Laura (espesh) and all the cave beasts for being so supportive!

Here's what I've learnt recently;

Give everything you have to give, and you will be rewarded with a fulfilling experience. Oh and don't fear the airtime ... just sit back, relax and enjoy the ride...

Buzzin'

I was BUZZING! For days after! Last saturday, me and Al headed out to the Slate, with an ambitious day planned; first we would head to Serengheti where he would redpoint The Medium (8a), I would flash Heading the Shot (7a+), then we would head down to the Rainbow slab, I would onsight Poetry Pink (E5) and he Ground-up Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6). Upon arrival we both had a head-sorting solo of the Quarries' classic Seamstress (VS), then Mason abbed and put the draws in his project, and all but the first draws in my target. After a quick toprope each and a lead attempt on The Medium by Al, I was up... Like a substitute being called on to the pitch I felt excited and yet unsure whether I would be able to step up to the plate and put in the required performance.

"54-46 was my number, ohh yeeaaah"

I was bricking it, I've heard a lot of 'E5' being bandied around, despite this I set off knowing the first bit from previous ground-up efforts to be scary but easy. First bolt clipped, I began my mantra "I am Johnny Dawes' illegitimate love-child, I will cruise this". I startled myself moving past the first bolt, how could I be so chilled onsighting way above my ability?

"Right now someone has that number, ohh yeaaahh"

Up above the second bolt now, I falter. I know how to get into the crux but it's a little tricky. A quick foot swap and I am immersed, all small feet and thin side-pulls. I grab a good crimp at my full reach 'You forgot the number 1 rule of slate; don't overstretch!!'. Paddling my feet up, I match left foot and hand, rocking up into good holds and the next clip, a few strenuous moves and the next bolt is clipped, rushing I almost fall but nope, I'm into the jugs yarding my way up the final run-out, looking out over Moel Eilio, over Bangor and onto Anglesey, I'm BUZZING! I did it, I tried hard and did it!

Heading the Shot: THIN!
(c) Nikki off UKC
(stolen photo as I cleverly forgot my camera)

Before long, Gwen and her friend Anna turn up, and Gwen (total technical crusher) cruises the crux without my flapping, only to fall off the traverse! Nightmare! Anna begins to re-work it (and later sent it, bon effort!), as Mason has some more burns at the, not so moderate, Medium. But no such luck, with each attempt I see his psyche diminish (not something I witness all that often with Al), Ballsford then turns up and we decide to go down to Rainbow Area. With diminishing time, we hit up Taken Over By Department C (7a/+), Al puts on a stylish onsight, and Ballsford puts on a stylish repeat ascent. Which left me to make a frumpy dogged ascent. It went so well up to the last bolt, reachy powerful moves, but I did them, then I failed to find the correct sequence and was well and truly taken over by fatigue. Still, a great route so get on it!

The next day, everyone was paired up and Al had to work, so I followed Ballsford to Parisella's Cave so that we could both send Left Wall Traverse (V8), neither of us did, but we both made better links and got some shweeet beta for the start! Also was reet good training!

Having felt smothered by the rain in North Wales, Jess and I headed to Glossop to visit her Dad, their awesome new puppy, Woody and so that I could pull some moves on the fabled Gritstone.

Thursday dawned bright and clear, so 'Team North Wales' consisting of Dave Morse, Josh Marshall and I headed to Curbar, or 'Sandbag crag' as it shall now be known. Having not climbed on grit much, or for a while I declined the offer of first lead, which was valiantly taken up by Josh. He fought the good fight with Maupassant (HVS 5a) for a while before declaring man-down and sending me up into the jaws of the layback flake!

Josh fighting the good fight on Maupassant.
(c) Dave Morse

Next, Morsey went a bit crazy on Insanity (E2 5c), a horrendously steep, pumpy, thin, awkward layback flake. After two good efforts, the rope ends were once again handed over to me (why me!?!), I fought the fight, but I got a good kicking this time, and was sent packing. A quick Top-rope effort from Josh and we decided to move on. Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a) being the next on the list upon recommendation by Jess' Dad. After some faffing at the bottom, I got stuck into the great movement between twin cracks, before jamming myself into the niche. After a bit of a flail, I got into the jugs and topped out triumphant, glad not to have to tell Jess' Dad the bad news that his daughter was indeed, dating a pansy.

Dave on Insanity

Dave then wanted to return to a previous spanking on The Toy (E1 5c), after getting all the gear in he fell off, returned to the ground and sent it, like a true hero! Looking forward to being on the blunt end of the rope for the first time all day, I was alarmed to see him drop the ropes saying, "You'll flash that Dunky!". Without question I tied on, squeaked me boots and set on up the longest 6 metres of my life. Nearing the top crack, I used my rat fingers to simply climb the crack instead of using Dave's sequence, just about managing to haul my sorry ass over the edge and to terra firma! Cheers for the gear and the numbers Dave!

Dave, happy topping out on The Toy, E1 5c

After lingering in the Gritstone evening, we headed home, with Josh psyched for a quick boulder hit to plantation the next day we chatted about problems we wanted to try, hushed hopes of Not To Be Taken Away for Dave and I, with Josh being keen for the Green Traverse, something I hoped to have a play on.

Friday turned out to be slightly colder than the day before and we hurriedly got warmed up on a couple of moderate problems, a flakey throw for a flat hold and a lovely little arete with a slopey, horrible top-out. After some spankings on a few other problems, Chris Todd headed over to Zippy's traverse (Font 7b), we all had a go, Chris got close, but no send! Josh headed up to the Green Traverse (Font 7a) to get the beta from Big Ron Fawcett, with the rest of us close behind. I felt that being fairly competant at the grade it should go for me, but no luck for any of us, and so we were sent packing with our tails between our legs once more! So we headed over to the Grand Hotel block, home to Not To Be Taken Away (Font 6c), the start felt a bit greasy, but after a few false starts, Dave was up on the ramp, faltering around the tricky high move he took the fall. I had a few goes but was really struggling with the start. Luckily, after failing on the first moves a few times, I got properly established and clicked into that focussed mind-set, concentrated on my feet and cruised to the top!

Not To Be Taken Away; Classic.
(c) Dave Morse

We then went and had a play on Silk Start (Font 7a/+) and Help the Aged (Font 7a/+), I could do niether but Chris put in a mint effort and nearly stuck the move on HtA. Running out of time, we headed down to D.I.Y an E3 6a solo with a cruxy move to start but trickyness up high and despite a good drop-zone the ground slopes away behind this, giving a feeling of exposure. Dave and Josh put in a brilliant effort but felt uneasy at committing to the tricky high move, I struggled on the start move partly due to fear of falling off the top.

Josh putting in a great effort on D.I.Y.

All in all, it's been a brilliant week or so of climbing, with both sides of the coin, failure and success experienced. After playing with Jess' new puppy, Woody, all weekend I really should be cracking on with my dissertation...

Woody and Jess watching the rabbits...N'awww