Variety is the spice of life...

Due to the intense amount of university work I have had of late, I have neglected from posting. Since I tried What a Difference a Day Makes, I've been getting out every now and then and there has been some considerable variety to my activities, which is always good! I'll try and keep waffle low on this post, and instead illustrate what I have been up to using pictures (not always mine) with a bit of chat on each photo. 

Iron Crag, Thirlmere, The Lake District.


The day dawned bright and sunny, after Bubbles and I had sorted some stuff for the weekend's work we boshed off to Thirlmere, and on up to Iron Crag after a quick drink and weasel through a tube.

Bubbles stuck in a tube!

 I kicked the day off with Solidarity, E1 5b, a route with a stiff, dusty section low down followed by bold, airy, but positive climbing up a corner and rib higher up. Very nice!

Solidarity, E1 5b (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbles then strapped his cock on and went for a route high on his tick list; Hiddenite, E2 5c. After some upping and downing, fiddling kit in he showed excellent form by blasting to the top stopping only to slot a wire in. Great effort Booblar!!

Seconding Hiddenite, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley

Next up it was my lead once again. I had, had my eye on one of the E4's of the crag but was secretly wishing for something a bit less taxing that I would have a higher chance of success on; something in the order of E3. No such luck, I set off up a new E4 6a; Amaballite, but after struggling up the overhanging starting groove, I found my self having to commit to a ledge above two reasonable runners, though in my wimpish state I wasn't sure how much I trusted them considering I couldn't see a runner coming for a looong way. After much pussy-footing around I backed off. SOFT. On abbing down Bubbles said he had found a runner a few moves off the ledge and declared my runners good enough. Get on it, it looks ace.

Strenuous starting groove of Amaballite, E4 6a. (c) Tom Ripley

Great Scotch Road-Trip; Skye, Torridon, Cairngorms


After working for the weekend, we risked the dodgy forecast and blasted up North of the border, took a lovely, scenic detour through Glasgow to pick up the beautiful, Jimmy 'Fingers' Marjot. We carried on up North, stopping to buy food in Fort Bill and eventually arrived at Glenbrittle, Skye at 8pm in pouring rain. Apparently it was due to stop at 4:00am, so we set our alarms for 4:30am and tried to get to sleep.

Road Trippin' (c) Tom Ripley

Upon waking up, we found it was still raining, albeit gently at 4:30, and heavier again at 6:30. Eventually we awoke to sunlight at 8:30am to find our objective; the Cuillin Ridge coated in snow. It was already too late to do it, but it looked as though we might not do it on this trip either.

The Cuillin Ridge, Skye, coated in fresh snow

Instead we headed to Kilt Rock and Bubbles lead his first Extreme Rock route; Grey Panther, E1 5b. It's a real ace route, but right in the wind so we bailed to the cafe and planned the next day.

Bubbles crushing Grey Panther, E1 5b.

My first driving lesson didn't go too well... (c) Tom Ripley

The snow was not forecast to melt so we headed over to Diabaig, Torridon. This is one of THE most beautiful places I have ever been fortunate enough to visit. We arrived at last light, pitched our tent and had dinner washed down by a fine ale each and fell asleep once more. The morning wasn't as bright as yesterday but we soldiered on.

Torridon... B-E-A-Utiful.

First up I led the Pillar; E2 5b which at 45m with numb hands and feet and small, spaced gear was fun! A brilliant route!

On The Pillar, E2 5b. (c) Tom Ripley

Next up Jimmy cruised Route Two; HVS 5a, and after trying Northumberland Wall, E2 5c, Bubbles did Route Three; E1 5b with a top pitch very reminiscent of St Victus' Dance in Squamish.

Fingers on Route Two, HVS 5a (c)Tom Ripley

Diabaig. (c)Tom Ripley

We then headed over to Aviemore in the hope of getting a quick route in at Creag Dubh before picking up some skis in Edinburgh for Bubbles' Alaska expedition. However, we had forgotten the larger amount of snow-fall on the East coast and how much colder this meant it was. After a cold night's shivering we drove straight to Glasgow to drop Fingers off before heading to Edinburgh, where the nice man at Anatom gave me four free pairs of Teko socks and some insoles for my boots! (I fervently suggest you get some Teko socks, they are great and for me, women's size medium are the best fitting sock I have ever had!)

Euro-sport in the English Riviera, Empire of the Sun f7b


After a very successful hitch from the Lakes to Exeter in just two lifts, with ne'er more than 5mins spent at the side of the road, I knew I had to crack on with the dissertation. However, after a few days of remembering how much of an uphill struggle it felt like, I gave an old climbing friend, Jerome, a text to see if he fancied a catch up.

Luckily he did, and I surprised him by requesting we go to the very un-traditionally angled Empire wall. I finally felt like I was ready for 7b and I knew Empire of the Sun was a solid tick at the grade and also very European in style; pumpy, with good holds all the way, and therefore good fitness training for my trad goals of the year.

After a quick traverse along the bottom of the wall to warm-up, Jerome whizzed up and put the draws in for me, deciding that going all out and trying to flash this would be unwise given the short day, I dogged it bolt to bolt getting the sequence sorted for a clean ascent. Jerome then put the clips in Avenged (F7c+), now the weather reared its ugly head in the form of a massive hail-storm! The top of the route began to get wet but after sitting it out for a bit it seemed to dry up enough for me to consider going for a redpoint attempt. I surprised myself by getting past the crux, but forgot a foot placement on the next hard throw and dropped it! After a quick rest, I pulled back on and got to the last hard move, off of a poor pocket only to slip off! The water had run-down into the back of it! Gutted, that I could have done the route in two halves, I did the move and carried on to the chains.

After Jerome cruised a lap on Avenged, the weather came in again!!!! Jerome offered to go up and dry the pocket out for me, but even after doing that, the weather knew and rained again! The water was now running in streaks down the top of the route, so a redpoint was almost out of the question. However, I had another go for some fitness training and despite messing up the crux, I got a move higher before running out of juice! I carried on to the top with a rest or two and cleaned the route as Jerome had work soon.

What a route! One of the best sport routes I have been on in the UK without doubt, and one I am keen to get back on when I'm back home!

Trem-fest, Bwlch y Moch


For a quick break from dissertation work, and due to the promise of a good prize draw, Bubbles, Ollie Burrows, Gwen and I headed to Tremadog for the clean-up festival. We arrived early and helped put the tent up before me and Bubbles opted to clean Grotto, an esoteric VS on the Christmas Curry Buttress. Donning water-proofs, we expected light drizzle, but on arriving at the first belay, the rain was coming in thick and fast. Abandoning the idea of climbing Grotto, Bubbles put in a commendable effort climbing the original Christmas Curry top pitch in a total waterfall. I seconded and cleaned as I went, and then lowered Bubbles into Grotto so he could clean it as he went down. Luckily, the sun had come out by now, and the crag was drying quickly. We walked down having carried out our duties and tried to decide what to do that would be dry and that Bubbles hadn't done already. We managed to postpone the raffle and after finding the Neb still under heavy cleaning activity, we remembered that neither of us had done the Daddy Cool/The Sting combination on Merlin Buttress. I set off up the main Daddy Cool (E2 5c) pitch and really enjoyed the positive, burly start which then gave way to less secure, technical in balance climbing up top.

Pulling the overlap on Daddycool, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbles joined me and scooted across the 5a pitch to the bottom of his pitch, the Sting (E2 5c). I struggled on this pitch for some unknown reason, height maybe? But was soon chilling at the belay ready to race up Ths Sting after Tom as the call for "Raffle in 45 minutes" had been given! Bubbles up and downed a bit before slipping off, so I instructed him to aid out and promptly raced up after him, clean but only just. It is a very well protected pitch but very tough 5c in my opinion.

We raced over to the beer house, grabbed a pint each and started rubbing our lucky charms, it worked out for me as I got a Petzl Bug rucksack (flogged for £30) and a Beanie. We then got Fish and Chips from Porthmadog and got pissed!

Awaking to rain, I cashed in my agreement with Burrows; I bought him dinner the night before and was treated to a lovely breakfast! We left and chilled in Bangor for a bit before deciding a quick boulder at Braichmelyn was in order. Bubbles and Ollie flashed The V1 arete and the V2 ramp, Mike turned up and crushed Central Wall V5 after a surprising amount goes considering he has flashed V7 - it's not easy!

Boulder scenes (c) Tom Ripley

A Righteous Day at the Promised Land, Gogarth 


With my dissertation handed in, Bubbles asked if I wanted to go climbing, to which I unsurprisingly answered, yes! We originally planned to head to Rhoscolyn, but with the recent rain we thought Fallen Block Zawn may be wet so despite Bubbles' epic the previous day on The Moon, we headed to Gogarth.

The offending item.

On arrival, we were soon joined by Mason and Jon Ratcliffe who were heading for Rat Race, an E3 I have wanted to do for a while. Upon arriving at the racking up spot I was still unsure what I was keen for, then remembered I hadn't done Aardvark, E2 6a. I racked up and we set off down the approach path.

Aardvark, E2 6a. (c) Tom Ripley

I found the bottom of Aardvark harder and bolder than expected, with in my opinion, a 5c sequence around 2 poor RPs well above the last kit. I got a bit freaked out as I knew the top was supposed to be a lot harder than the bottom. However, I carried on and managed to get a load of good runners before sprinting the top. I'd say there wasn't any 6a on it, so it felt more E3 5c to me, though maybe if you are tall with fat fingers it feels different.

Mad, Bad, and Dangerous to know - Tom Ripley

Bubbles put in a good effort, seconding it clean, then had a crack at Fail Safe, E2 5b. But wasn't feeling it so suggested Cordon Bleu, HVS 5b. I agreed, and got the gear out for him. We headed over and started off the sight-seeing trip that it is. Along the way, we bumped into Al and Jon and Rat Race, and Bubbles began to complain at how crap our route was, though he perked up once he had climbed the tricky crux. Although the climbing isn't hard for the most part, I was simply enjoying being out in the sunshine and cruising along halfway up the Main Cliff.

We topped out and returned to the gearing up area along with Al and Jon. After sitting around, eating sandwiches and chatting, it was time for some more routes. Al and Jon headed for Run Fast, Run Free (E5 6a), whilst I headed for Snakebite Wall, a tough E4 6a at Holyhead Mountain. Snakebite Wall is a really great route, with good hard sustained climbing up a vertical wall into the top of Penny (E4 6a). I felt like I climbed well and kept going despite being savagely pumped, but I made the mistake of placing too much gear in the Penny crack, and fell just a few moves away from the end of the hard climbing - Gutted!!

Snakebitten (c) Tom Ripley

Bubbes then made a clean ascent of the hard King Bee Crack, HVS 5a (sandbag), a route he had dogged late last year. I seconded it, though found it very tricky due to high fatigue levels, it isn't very positive and is very burly! After abbing to get my gear back, we packed up and bumped into Jon and Al walking back, having done Run Fast, Run Free, and were greeted by a brilliant sunset as we got back to the cars! A great day, which was a great reward for all my slaving over my dissertation.

A good end to a righteous day at the Big G

An Afternoon of Faffing, Fiendish Beamish f7a+/b


On the Sunday, I had told Al that I'd be keen for a half day, enabling me to getsome climbing and revison done. Aiming to meet him about 2, he soon texted back asking to go early but be back early, unfortunately his idea of early was about 3 hours later than mine, and after a small textual argument, we ended up going out at 12. Choosing the Orme, we sped off only to be stuck in bank holiday parade traffic for a good hour or so. After extrapolating ourselves we sped over to the Lighthouse Crags to try Red Meat, a new 7b addition to the Orme. However, upon abbing down I found the route wet and covered in birds, we bailed and by this time had lost a good 3 hours!!

Notice Board Crag,
Fiendish Beamish goes up the centre of the crag from the 'V' at the base.

Luckily, plan B was a simple one, go to Notice Board Crag. We warmed up on Leaning Jowler, a really great, steep F6b, and Al put the clips in Fiendish Beamish F7a+/b as he lowered off. After I stripped Leaning Jowler, Al set off up Fiendish, but stalled above the 4th bolt, after upping and downing a few times, he downclimbed to the deck and offered me the rope ends!! Nervously, I tied on and blasted upwards, stopping to take in beta from Al on the moves. Soon I found myself at Al's highpoint, a quick rearrangement of my right hand in the pocket to facilitate a match, and a quick slap out right found me totally committed, eye-balling the 5th clip. I pulled up an armful of slack but was so pumped I fumbled the clip and grabbed the draw, as I nearly took a massive whipper! Clipping in, I rested and then climbed to the top, trying a different sequence on the way down and beta-ing Al up. He duly cruised it this go, and it was soon my turn... I again felt apprehensive as the pump from the last go was still present in my forearms, but I strapped it on and got to it. Once into the crux, I moved quickly and aggressively, slapping my way between the holds, and before I knew it, I had done the crux and after a tricky couple of last moves was clipping the chains, chuffed at my hardest redpoint to date!

What a Difference a Day Makes...

A day can make all the difference, in many ways...

I aged a whole year in just 24 hours, turning 22 when I had been only 21 the day before! All very unfair, but I did get some chocolate, coca-cola, ribena, climbing gear and money! Spent the day chilling with Jess, then went to a beach BBQ with a load of people for a joint birthday doo with Burdy, who turns 23 (Ha!) on the 1st.

What a difference a day makes, the paranoia about time passing too quickly grew...

Feeling guilty about neglecting my dissertation, I tucked my vagina in and boshed out 1000 words on Saturday. What a difference a day makes, the guilt melted away...

The next day, with minus an hour's sleep, I was picked up by Ollie and owing to the amazing weather, sped off to the Llanberis Pass, to a theme-tune of Bubble's choosing (Frank Sinatra - since when was Sinatra psyche music?!?). A quick stop to pick up Mark Reeves, and we were safely parked in the CC car park (Oooooh! Posh!), it seemed like it might be a mafter, but Ollie was keen for SS Special on the Grochan, and I was unsure of whether it would be too cold on the 'dark-side' of the Pass. Ollie boshed SS Special, and I got a free return ticket to it. I lead it in 1st year and thoroughly enjoyed it then, and this time, good effort younger me... it's tricky! By the time I reached the belay it was mafting (hot/boiling/roasting for those not with me lingo innit), so we hot-footed it over to Hidden Wall, behind Gravestones. I had a few routes in mind on this slice of the Pass, Rimsky Korsakov (E4/5 6a) and What A Difference A Day Makes (E4 6a) being right up there on things to have a bash at.

Cor blimey! Roasting hot weather in the Pass,
Clogwyn y Grochan the obvious crag on the sunny side.

I was told it may be wet so left Ollie chilling whilst I sussed out whether either was dry, and if I wanted to get on either one of them. Turning the corner, I didn't know what I wanted to see; a lot of wetness rendering the routes un-climbable but a wasted journey to the dark-side, or bone-dry rock and then I'd have no excuse but to go for it? I found Rimsky totally dry (get on up there if you are capable; it looks mega) but What a Difference had some wetness at the base. Looking closely at them both, Rimsky looked to have small gear which I wasn't sure would be good for forearms as tender as mine; I might get too pumped to put good kit in. What a Difference had bigger cracks in and it turned out the wetness wasn't affecting the climbing too much at the start. Walking back down to Ollie I wasn't sure whether to take the risk... luckily I manned up and got psyched - if you don't try, you'll never know!

So we boshed back up and I got psyched for a bit of lactic poisoning on What a Difference... The start went well, I managed it without the wet bits and got some gear in and was feeling good, tempted out left by an undercut jug rail I found myself in a nice niche but off route...bollocks. After a lot of faffing and swapping cams over to get my gear back on-line, I made a tenuous series of moves rightwards and 'powered' in the loosest sense of the word up the wall into the real meat of the route. Not feeling 100% happy with the gear below my feet I put a good small wire in, but still the paranoia flows and I am pumped, VERY pumped. Still I came here for a fight so that's what I'm gonna give! I am power-screaming and whimpering at the same time  - each cancelling the other out into what I have now termed "power-whines". Half of my (small) brain said "HAVE IT!", the other said "This is freaking scary mate, is that gear good enough for you to even sit on it? Better get another bit in and sit on that, be a good boy".

I took tips from both and put some more gear in but battled on up, another piece of gear to go in but I'm so pumped I'm struggling to open krabs and can't get the wire I want, opt for the next one up which is luckily the right size. "It didn't look this hard from below, looked like jugs all over and that you could bridge out" I think but instead there are a few incuts hidden in a sea of dirty, unhelpful rock. I power-whine up to the next hold but instead of something positive I find nothing good enough for the state of my forearms. I fall, a small one really as my runner is close by. Forearms boxed, I hang around and then try to climb back to my last piece of gear to dog it out, but I'm too pumped in both forearm and brain so lower off, defeated.

I always have to find the lesson in these things and upon abbing down to clean the gear I realise how steep it is; my runners are hanging away from the wall like they would on a sport route, I also find a small, positive hold just above where I was looking for one, but also the route kicks back more above it and I didn't bring a big enough cam for a big crack at the top which will protect me for the final layback.

I have learnt a few things though:

• RELAX! Being the first hard trad route I've been on this year (Heading the Shot is sport), not being my style, I was mega tense, probably over-gripping, not finding the best body positions, and not shaking out that I can remember. With a more relaxed style, I would have done better. 
• Give 110%. I think I gave 100% on the route, but could I have squeezed a bit more out? 
• Listen to your instincts on gear size you spot from the ground. I almost knew it was blue camalot sized up there but hate carrying unnecessary weight. 
• Get on it again soon, or something else pumpy soon. You need to get fitter and better you fat bastard.

After cleaning it, Ollie boshed the Stebbing which gets E2 but is closer to HVS. I had also done this in 1st year so it was nice to revisit it in safety. Finally, to really knacker us out we walked back to the Grochan and linked the first 4c pitch of Spectre into Nea (HVS and VS respectively) before heading home. All in all a great day, and I think that once my calves, forearms and shoulders stop aching, I'll be fitter once more.

Right Wall, Bloody Sunday etc all feel a million miles away right now, but I'm staying optimistic, they are all only bits of rock. A bit more familiarity with the "dreaded pump" and it might become a good friend, no reason why not eh?

What a difference a day makes, I've grown older, made some good inroads into my dissertation and given myself the kick up the arse to knuckle down and try and get fitter, stronger and better to actually achieve my goals for this year.

Airtime.

Airtime, the antithesis of climbing, yet without the fall, looming or experienced, it would be a boring 2-dimensional exercise whereby half the fun would be taken away. If you aren't risking falling off then you aren't trying hard enough, but imagine if there was never the risk of falling? Top-roping classic routes in imperfect safety, just working out the moves and being fit and strong, except it wouldn't matter, you would just go for the most obvious sequence and if you couldn't do it, who cares?. Falling is a big part of climbing, and I like it that way. 

As with everyone, I find the thought of falling scary at the beginning of the season, but I enjoy climbing a lot more once I am comfortable with falling, and truth be told, I do quite enjoy falling. Big whippers, whilst scary are FUN!

A brilliant yet slightly naughty form of fall practice is bridge jumping. On a whim, and after we had exhausted our supplies of stale bread to throw at unsuspecting drunks, Livingbone, Bubbles, Ollie, Harry and I went and found a bridge, set up a suspect hauling system and a dynamic rope to jump on. Despite others' 100% psyche levels, no-one was keen to jump first, so I stepped up to the plate. I was apprehensive tying in, I knew the dynamic set up was fine, but the hauling system was unorthodox to say the least. Climbing over the railings, I was a bit scared but I knew I just had to commit. A split-second of control and it is out of your hands, you are falling, flying through the sky and suddenly, the rope catches and you swing around for a bit, as you are pulled up by your mates. 

This time was different, I jumped and fell; as usual, was caught; as usual but looking down, I grabbed the static but it was dangling underneath me, not above!? 

"What the F***!" 

Was my first thought, asking the guys above if it had snapped, they seemed to think it hadn't, though they weren't sure. In the end, they agreed with me so I asked them if they would be so kind as to lower down a new bit of rope? They obliged, and whilst I waited, I realised I had stopped swinging. Usually, whilst bridge jumping you are hauled back up before you stop swinging, but now I was dangling, hoping the hauling system would work and that I wouldn't have to be rescued (embarresing much?) Luckily, it worked and I was soon standing on solid bridge...phheww!

Jump psyche... Also putting on a brave face as I'm not sure if my pants are still clean...
(c) Tom Ripley

Seeing it safe, the rest of the crew jumped, without mishap, though Ollie and Harry did take a while to man up and jump, though Bubbles put in a commendable effort and went quick, unlike last time when he requested to be 'thrown overboard' as he couldn't bring himself to jump.

Remember kids; think carefully about eating that last biscuit cos' ropes snap sometimes...
(c) Tom Ripley 

After some amount of sleep, Eugene and I went to Penmaen Head on the A55, to go sport climbing. I wanted to get some early season mileage in, though was feeling ache-y from hauling people up and tired from the late night. First up we boshed a couple of Fr6a's; Helyg Crack and Red Handed, these went without mishap and so I decided to have a go at onsighting a 6c, Top Secret taking my fancy. I felt pretty good and confident, I was getting pumped, but I was working out the moves too. A tricky sequence to a bolt passed, I moved up and could taste success, spotting a good crimp rail, I grabbed it, unfortunately it was sloping, but I matched and tried to press on but fell. DAMN! De-pumping I carried on up to the top, chastising myself for not reading the sequence correctly. Eugene had a go but fell at the second and third bolts, came down and boshed it. After some lunch, I did the same, confidently flowing through moves I had been much more static and slow on before. Getting to the crux, a quick shake and I boshed the right sequence right to the top, Woopa! Next up, Eugene had a go at The Gimp Crimp, 7a after a slip low down, he boshed on to the top but came to a hault at the last bolt, unable to foresee a way to the chains he passed over to me. It looked desperate, so I didn't hold out much hope, but I went up and tried my very best, passing the lower crux, I rested well in the middle, got up and committed to the laybacks and slapped for the finishing jug! As I held it, I realised I'd left the quickdraws on the ground, so fumbled with my belay device and screwgate, getting a bit pumped and gripped, but psyched to have got it first go.

On Wednesday, I got the call from Mason that he was going for an evening Parisella's Cave hit, and did I want to join him and Laura? Yes I did, despite having had an Indy session the night before I desperately wanted to close my account on Left Wall Traverse (V8/Fr7c+). We got there and after a short warm up in Split Infinity (I always feel like such a punter not being able to warm up in the cave), I boshed Flake start to be sure I knew I could do the end of the full thing. Anyway, there were loads of beasts there trying some hard shit, and Mason added himself to that mix with some really brilliant links on Lou Ferrino, a powerful, steep, V10. Anyway, I had a load of mediocre efforts including one stupid one where I slightly messed up with my feet and let go thinking it not worth it! That last stupid little fail did not sit well with me, and I found myself in a very determined mindset. After a short rest and a banana (Thanks to Al and Laura for that one) I was pandered to by Laura who kindly brushed all the holds and got chalk ready at the halfway rest while I got focussed and booted up. This time up everything fell into place and I just focussed on getting the next hold, then the next etc, any mistake and I just kept going, trying to eak another move out of the attempt. Suddenly I found myself through the crux and starting the last tricky sequence down to the rest. My right foot wasn't quite correctly seated but I pressed on, all of a sudden my left hand popped (I didn't let go) and I found myself trying to grab a handhold whilst lying on the pad. One move away from the rest I had fallen, although it is not totally in the bag at that point, it is a hands-off rest so I could have rested until I felt fresh enough to finish. However, a brilliant triumph for tenacity! After this effort I could barely pull the starting moves so called it a day, but a great bit of training! Thanks to Al, Laura (espesh) and all the cave beasts for being so supportive!

Here's what I've learnt recently;

Give everything you have to give, and you will be rewarded with a fulfilling experience. Oh and don't fear the airtime ... just sit back, relax and enjoy the ride...

Buzzin'

I was BUZZING! For days after! Last saturday, me and Al headed out to the Slate, with an ambitious day planned; first we would head to Serengheti where he would redpoint The Medium (8a), I would flash Heading the Shot (7a+), then we would head down to the Rainbow slab, I would onsight Poetry Pink (E5) and he Ground-up Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6). Upon arrival we both had a head-sorting solo of the Quarries' classic Seamstress (VS), then Mason abbed and put the draws in his project, and all but the first draws in my target. After a quick toprope each and a lead attempt on The Medium by Al, I was up... Like a substitute being called on to the pitch I felt excited and yet unsure whether I would be able to step up to the plate and put in the required performance.

"54-46 was my number, ohh yeeaaah"

I was bricking it, I've heard a lot of 'E5' being bandied around, despite this I set off knowing the first bit from previous ground-up efforts to be scary but easy. First bolt clipped, I began my mantra "I am Johnny Dawes' illegitimate love-child, I will cruise this". I startled myself moving past the first bolt, how could I be so chilled onsighting way above my ability?

"Right now someone has that number, ohh yeaaahh"

Up above the second bolt now, I falter. I know how to get into the crux but it's a little tricky. A quick foot swap and I am immersed, all small feet and thin side-pulls. I grab a good crimp at my full reach 'You forgot the number 1 rule of slate; don't overstretch!!'. Paddling my feet up, I match left foot and hand, rocking up into good holds and the next clip, a few strenuous moves and the next bolt is clipped, rushing I almost fall but nope, I'm into the jugs yarding my way up the final run-out, looking out over Moel Eilio, over Bangor and onto Anglesey, I'm BUZZING! I did it, I tried hard and did it!

Heading the Shot: THIN!
(c) Nikki off UKC
(stolen photo as I cleverly forgot my camera)

Before long, Gwen and her friend Anna turn up, and Gwen (total technical crusher) cruises the crux without my flapping, only to fall off the traverse! Nightmare! Anna begins to re-work it (and later sent it, bon effort!), as Mason has some more burns at the, not so moderate, Medium. But no such luck, with each attempt I see his psyche diminish (not something I witness all that often with Al), Ballsford then turns up and we decide to go down to Rainbow Area. With diminishing time, we hit up Taken Over By Department C (7a/+), Al puts on a stylish onsight, and Ballsford puts on a stylish repeat ascent. Which left me to make a frumpy dogged ascent. It went so well up to the last bolt, reachy powerful moves, but I did them, then I failed to find the correct sequence and was well and truly taken over by fatigue. Still, a great route so get on it!

The next day, everyone was paired up and Al had to work, so I followed Ballsford to Parisella's Cave so that we could both send Left Wall Traverse (V8), neither of us did, but we both made better links and got some shweeet beta for the start! Also was reet good training!

Having felt smothered by the rain in North Wales, Jess and I headed to Glossop to visit her Dad, their awesome new puppy, Woody and so that I could pull some moves on the fabled Gritstone.

Thursday dawned bright and clear, so 'Team North Wales' consisting of Dave Morse, Josh Marshall and I headed to Curbar, or 'Sandbag crag' as it shall now be known. Having not climbed on grit much, or for a while I declined the offer of first lead, which was valiantly taken up by Josh. He fought the good fight with Maupassant (HVS 5a) for a while before declaring man-down and sending me up into the jaws of the layback flake!

Josh fighting the good fight on Maupassant.
(c) Dave Morse

Next, Morsey went a bit crazy on Insanity (E2 5c), a horrendously steep, pumpy, thin, awkward layback flake. After two good efforts, the rope ends were once again handed over to me (why me!?!), I fought the fight, but I got a good kicking this time, and was sent packing. A quick Top-rope effort from Josh and we decided to move on. Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a) being the next on the list upon recommendation by Jess' Dad. After some faffing at the bottom, I got stuck into the great movement between twin cracks, before jamming myself into the niche. After a bit of a flail, I got into the jugs and topped out triumphant, glad not to have to tell Jess' Dad the bad news that his daughter was indeed, dating a pansy.

Dave on Insanity

Dave then wanted to return to a previous spanking on The Toy (E1 5c), after getting all the gear in he fell off, returned to the ground and sent it, like a true hero! Looking forward to being on the blunt end of the rope for the first time all day, I was alarmed to see him drop the ropes saying, "You'll flash that Dunky!". Without question I tied on, squeaked me boots and set on up the longest 6 metres of my life. Nearing the top crack, I used my rat fingers to simply climb the crack instead of using Dave's sequence, just about managing to haul my sorry ass over the edge and to terra firma! Cheers for the gear and the numbers Dave!

Dave, happy topping out on The Toy, E1 5c

After lingering in the Gritstone evening, we headed home, with Josh psyched for a quick boulder hit to plantation the next day we chatted about problems we wanted to try, hushed hopes of Not To Be Taken Away for Dave and I, with Josh being keen for the Green Traverse, something I hoped to have a play on.

Friday turned out to be slightly colder than the day before and we hurriedly got warmed up on a couple of moderate problems, a flakey throw for a flat hold and a lovely little arete with a slopey, horrible top-out. After some spankings on a few other problems, Chris Todd headed over to Zippy's traverse (Font 7b), we all had a go, Chris got close, but no send! Josh headed up to the Green Traverse (Font 7a) to get the beta from Big Ron Fawcett, with the rest of us close behind. I felt that being fairly competant at the grade it should go for me, but no luck for any of us, and so we were sent packing with our tails between our legs once more! So we headed over to the Grand Hotel block, home to Not To Be Taken Away (Font 6c), the start felt a bit greasy, but after a few false starts, Dave was up on the ramp, faltering around the tricky high move he took the fall. I had a few goes but was really struggling with the start. Luckily, after failing on the first moves a few times, I got properly established and clicked into that focussed mind-set, concentrated on my feet and cruised to the top!

Not To Be Taken Away; Classic.
(c) Dave Morse

We then went and had a play on Silk Start (Font 7a/+) and Help the Aged (Font 7a/+), I could do niether but Chris put in a mint effort and nearly stuck the move on HtA. Running out of time, we headed down to D.I.Y an E3 6a solo with a cruxy move to start but trickyness up high and despite a good drop-zone the ground slopes away behind this, giving a feeling of exposure. Dave and Josh put in a brilliant effort but felt uneasy at committing to the tricky high move, I struggled on the start move partly due to fear of falling off the top.

Josh putting in a great effort on D.I.Y.

All in all, it's been a brilliant week or so of climbing, with both sides of the coin, failure and success experienced. After playing with Jess' new puppy, Woody, all weekend I really should be cracking on with my dissertation...

Woody and Jess watching the rabbits...N'awww

Gotta keep on, keeping on...

January and February have been pretty crappy months in the big N.W, unfortunately. We've been plagued by really crappy weather, too warm for the winter-ey whiteness, but too wet for the rock. On top of this I feel increasingly weighed down by uni work, I can feel my energy and psyche being drained and this just makes me feel worse. Being of a positive mindset I have tried to fight this, and I'm still a happy chappy on the whole, but the last couple of months have definitely lived up to their depressing reputation. I keep trying to remember that you gotta have the lows to appreciate the highs...

If you feel like this too, then I recommend you watch this video:

http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/en/srikumar_rao_plug_into_your_hard_wired_happiness.html

"Happiness" is something I seem to be more obsessed/fascinated/intrigued by than many people, well I'm probably not, but I am very conscious that YOU are responsible for your own happiness and if you aren't happy then YOU have to do something to change your current predicament, no-one else can, should or will do it for you. So if you feel down in the dumps, watch the vid and think about it, I hope it inspires you. Pass it on to others too, if you feel it would help them too. It's not necessarily easy to make the change, could take some real balls and commitment, but if it'll make a difference then why not go for it? Happiness is the key, or else what is the point? Have a good hard think about what makes you happy too rather than just believing society's set path to happiness, as although it may work for some it won't work for all, we are all different and that's the beauty of life; variety!

Anyway, back to climbing. As I said the weather has been real bad, but I have been trying to get out, honest! I have had a couple of okey-ish trips to Porth Ysgo, on the Lleyn Peninsula. The first trip was dry when we arrived and I managed to bosh out a soft unnamed V6 which was fun, and also started working on my first V7; Perrin's Crack Sit-down start. Then it rained and I don't think I did anything else after that.

Chris on the send on the un-named V6

The second trip, we arrived to find the rock wet! So we sat around and played on the 'Ysgo Challenge; Lite', which is an axel with two wheels on each end left over from when the area was a port or 'Porth' in welsh. The actual one is a lot heavier, but I still couldn't do the light version. Bubbles beasted it though, as did Miles, Ballsford (managing to hold it one armed above his head, and press it out 15 times with two arms), Dyllan and Burdy who made t look like it was made of polystyrene! I don't think I did anything of note on this trip though we had a good play on a damp Popcorn Party; V6, which I did last year but is always a joy to climb on, beautiful rock and tricky technical moves.

Bubbles completing the 'Ysgo Challenge; Lite' GRRR
(c) Nikki Sommers

Pulling funny faces on Popcorn Party, V6.
Classic of Porth Ysgo. (c) Miles Hill

In preparation for a trip to Scotland which thanks to a poor forecast never happened, Bubbles took me out for a day of getting used to wearing crampons, for a day up Bristly Ridge on the Glyders. This was actually on a beautiful day, and I felt like a kid in a sweet shop, just so excited to be out having an adventure, learning to climb again (almost), taking me back to my early days in climbing but without my crippling fear of heights.

Bubbles showing just how Alpinists prepare before a winter route... eeerrrm?

Tryfan, and the Carneddau... B-E-A-Utiful.

That was a while ago, but yesterday I got out and tied on for the second time this year! Off to the Orme with Al Mason, we met up with Sam Radcliffe and Tom Livingstone. We nipped off to do a Fr6c above Parisella's Cave, instead doing the 6a+ by accident, though it felt stiff at that! We then headed back to their route, to find Livingstone having a top-rope on a bouldery 7a called Jerusalem is Lost. I was encouraged to have a go, so I pulled the rope down and went for it, but failed on the start of the crux. Lowering down a few inches I was back on the floor, and after a few more attempts like this, made the crux move and clipped the second bolt! Then with misremembered beta being thrown up at me, I got to the top, Huzzah! We then went up to the Firefly area for some trad (gulp!), I was a bit gripped knowing it was all hard, E3+ sort of affairs and therefore the sort of thing I would find tricky at my best last year! Anyway, Mason boshed on up Firefly, with a cheeky rest on the bolt as it was wet. Leaving the gear in, I was originally just going to top-rope it, feeling tired from my previous efforts. However, Mason convinced me to go for the lead, so I did, slipping off on the second move I dropped back to the ground, and went for it again, this time getting it right, with the pump rising I managed to rest it off and carry on all the way to the chains, just by being confident and keeping on! The rain set in, and after Mason had a clean ascent, we finished the day off in the Cave. After Livingstone sent the 7a of earlier in the day, we boshed down to a busy cave. I headed for the Left Wall traverse, refining and remembering my sequence. I then had a burn from the start to see how I was going and surprised myself with my best link yet, getting through the crux and failing due to not quite being able to remember some moves.

Owain sending Jerusalem is Lost Fr7a, last summer.
(c) Owain Atkins

So if everything seems crap and pointless, keep on keeping on, and work out where you are going wrong and change that to squeeze some more happiness out of your life. Oh and take a chance every once in a while, it feels good, I promise...

Humans are shit...

A bit of a different post here, but it is something I feel strongly about. As some of you may know, during my year out between Sixth Form and Uni, I went away and had some amazing experiences. One of these was volunteering in a Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre in Thailand, in which monkeys, gibbons, bears and many other animals that had been taken from their natural environment and used by humans as photo-props, and pets as babies but then mistreated as they grew to adolescence and became more aggressive. 

The centre I went to is run by the WFFT or Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand, I worked with many of the animals, feeding them, cleaning enclosures, creating stimuli for them to give a more natural life, and more interest than being kept in an average enclosure, with the aim that one day they might be ready to be released into the wild. 

The staff and volunteers at WFFT do a brilliant job, making life for these animals good again, whilst trying to help as many animals as possible, and fight for animals rights through-out Thailand, often standing up and using the media to bring light to any poor conduct from humans towards animals, both wild and domestic. 

Unfortunately it seems that the government in Thailand are shits too and have been found to be killing elephants in the natural reserves to make a bit of money on the black market. I was lucky enough to see these elephants on a trip from the centre and it is amazing to see such a powerful, wild animal that should not be shot and sold for money, least of all by those who already have enough.

WFFT stood up against the government, naming, shaming and campainging them to punish those who are guilty. This has unfortunately caused a massive backlash from the government towards WFFT and also an Elephant sanctuary (I don't know much about this), whereby the government has sent armed officials to raid the sanctuary, and have now taken around 100 animals without anesthesia catching them in an aggressive and stressful way. They have also arrested one staff member and detained many other volunteers and staff members, without real reason. 

Here are some videos of the raid;

Sandee the Binturong being captured, knocked off branches, hit with nets as the gov't officials hamfistedly attempt to catch him: https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150605164348290

Having been caught, the officials get him into a crate by holding his tail, pinning him down and trap his tail in the crate door, whilst Thai officials laugh:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150605233393290&set=vb.28211827656&type=2&permPage=1

I emplore you to help the plight of these animals, it really sickens me to hear of this and to see the videos makes me feel really angry. 

However, there are a number of ways you can help;

Firstly you can sign the petition here; http://www.thepetitionsite.com/2/urgent-plea-for-rescued-thai-wildlife/

Secondly you can send an email to the Thai Embassy in London: csinfo@thaiembassyuk.org.uk

The British Embassy in Bangkok: ConsularEnquiriesBangkok@fco.gov.uk 

Here is a stock email another ex-volunteer wrote to make it easier for you;

Dear Sir/Madam

It has come to my attention that officials have raided Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand, located Phet Buri, Thailand 76130. As I am writing this one co-worker has been arrested, and over 100 animals taken from the sanctuary in an inhumane way, causing stress and harm to these animals.

I have known this foundation to do great work preserving the beautiful wildlife of your country. A wildlife so rich you have every reason to be proud of. A foundation that has dedicated itself to help elephants, primates, bears, tigers and so forth should have every support of the government. Not only for tourists (as eco-tourism is booming business) but very much so for the people of your country it is so important to preserve the wildlife that is still with us. You have so many animals living in your country that are almost extinct, and it would be a powerful message to your own people and the world if you could preserve them now and in the future.

The raid that has been performed now followed after a critical article was written regarding the trade of elephants in your national parks. If this truly is the reason the raid was sanctioned, than I am truly appalled.

I would really appreciate it if you would let your government know that I am really worried about the wellbeing of the workers at the foundation and of the rescued animals currently residing there.

I would also like you to let your government know that I would applaude any future support given to Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand and the wildlife in general.

Thank you very much for the time you have taken to read this email, I am looking forward to a positive reply.

Sincerely,

Simply copy and paste it into your email, add your name and hit send, it's simple and you can make a difference! 

Please, please, please do this, it must be stopped! 

Thank you for reading this and helping these animals.

The future is unwritten...

So 2011 is out and having reflected upon the good and bad of the last year, I think I now need to start setting achievable goals for 2012, whilst also outlining things I can do to achieve them. Having read Mason and Morse's blogs it seems to be a good idea to look back and analyse the past year and use that to set next year's goals and area's for improvement.

In preparation, I have been doing a bit of research and trying to work out key areas to train that may give me the edge when I get onto the rock next year. I have begun a love-affair with sustained, sometimes bold routes up vertical walls, and so I obviously need to be fit, but there are a few subtle things that I can train that require (a) less effort and (b) could make a bigger difference whilst saving the effects of training for when I am in dire need of a plateau-breaker. 

The first of my sneaky tricks is to get good frog flexibility! Being able to get my CoG (and my semi) as close to the rock as possible will likely make a bigger difference than extra fitness, especially when pumped! 

The second is to do some drills (sounds boring as feck eh? But it seems a lot of other sports and the military use them to good effect). This is to focus on the fact that once you (I) get pumped, quite often technique, sequence deciphering, gear placement, and aggressive mindsets go out the window quicker than you can say "Take!". By drilling myself good movement skills in a normal situation and then build it into stressful situations, I will hopefully reinforce smooth movement, efficient sequence deciphering, and the ability to place good gear, allowing better focus, that's the theory anyway...

Thirdly, climb with Al Mason more, because despite him being hairy and smelly, I have done all my E4 on-sights with him either belaying or at the crag, and most of my hard boulders with him... I can learn a lot from him and he pushes me. Maybe I just fancy him...

2012 GOALS:

 Climbing Goals

• Onsight some classic, solid E4s. E.g. Ressurection, Moon Walk, Sugar Cane Country, Great Wall (Both!), Star Wars, Bloody Sunday, True Grip, Roc-Nest Monster, Break On Through, etc.
• Ground-up an E5 that inspires me. E.g. Rimsky Korsakov/Mur y meirwon/Pembroke E5?
• Redpoint 7b. E.g. Red Meat, Ceuse 7b, Bloodsports?
• Onsight more 7a's and some 7a+'s. E.g. Axle Attack, Calimero, Ceuse 7a/+'s.
• Send powerful V6 and technical V7. E.g. Chummer's Wall, Lipstick, Perrin's Crack SDS.
• Get more comfortable yet again on sustained, pumpy ground, especially with a trad rack and/or runouts. This will basically be a case of putting in effort whilst training, but more importantly getting on bigger sport numbers and simply getting on pumpy trad routes!
• Have a good day at the Cromlech! Have a day doing classics, then get on Foil and try it onsight/ground-up. It's not a route I'm super bothered about so it should breakdown the 'Cromlech barrier'. Just do Memory Lane. Then start getting on the harder routes.
• Remain motivated and injury-free.
• Go on some sweeeet trips. Got a fair bit lined up once I'm free from uni; Pabbay or Ceuse in June, Pembroke or Lakes in July, maybe Les Alpes in August?
• Get some winter climbing done! 

Life Goals

• Pass my degree!!! - Pretty important this one, don't want to waste all that money!
• Enjoy the last 6 months of Uni life.
• Get a job that I can save loads of money with for Autumn/Winter 2012/13.
• Try and be the nicest, happiest, most positive person I can.
• Learn to drive, pass my test and get some wheels.
• Save as much of my last loans as possible!
• BE HAPPY

So is there any vague plan I hear you ask! Yes! Trip-wise, I won't be going anywhere sunny at Easter as I have revision for finals to do. However, I am hoping to go to places like Kilnsey and Malham for short hits in the spring. Then, June will be exciting with either a trad expedition to Pabbay in the Scottish Outer Hebrides. OR a sun-tastic sport trip to Ceuse in Spain. Hopefully, and almost certainly if I go to Ceuse, I'd like to go to Pembroke for 2-3 weeks in July, really get my teeth into the climbing there and do some inspiring routes! Then, dependant on money, I will either head to the Alps with Bubbles, or continue to crag in the UK whilst finding a bleeding job for the winter! Preferably in North Wales so I can live with Jess...