tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67098642077794039772024-03-12T17:15:06.661-07:00Dunc's Climbing BlogBlogging on Life and Climbing...Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-79014767637657930092014-08-31T15:00:00.000-07:002014-08-31T15:00:57.881-07:00Climbing, the rockWell, this is my first blog in two years, over those years I occasionally look back at my old posts and smile, sometimes they make me feel sad too.<br />
<br />
My last blog in particular pulls at the heart strings, I guess. It takes a look at the previous three years of my life. Years that really shaped me into the person that sits here typing away. I finish by stating I can't imagine living anywhere but North Wales... Unsurprisingly, I no longer live in North Wales, I now live in another of the UK's climbing meccas; Sheffield.<br />
<br />
Apart from the climbing, one thing that features heavily in the previous blog is Jess. Jess is the reason I chose to leave North Wales, and after we broke up I felt stranded in this city away from the mountains and sea of North Wales that I love so much. But I'm not going back, not for the foreseeable future.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oId6_mFMI1U/U_5dLVGymoI/AAAAAAAAAZw/dRuodK1k64E/s1600/justonemore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oId6_mFMI1U/U_5dLVGymoI/AAAAAAAAAZw/dRuodK1k64E/s1600/justonemore.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a great day at Sharpnose, I couldn't resist one<br />
more route. (c) GuyVG</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
2014 has been a bit of a rough year so far, and yet also one of the best. I have lost both my girlfriend, and shortly after my job. Although in reality people go through a lot worse, I have had a fortunate life with few major disruptions like this, so to have two come along so quickly definitely knocked me off balance for a little while. Whilst I write this, I am sorting through a few more smaller life disturbances that I won't go into. Yet I can't help but feel 2014 has been a golden year - am I damaged?<br />
<br />
Whilst I fell out of love with someone I loved a lot, and lost a job I thought would suit me for the rest of my life, I relearnt something I had known all along but lost sight of. I fell head over heels back in love with rock climbing. I vividly remember when I started climbing, in comparison to the last 5 years I did it very infrequently, but my passion for it was all-encompassing. It defined me, every time I went climbing my self-confidence grew, I felt like I had found what I was born to do, I had delusions of grandeur. By the time I had finished my first year of uni, I had transformed from a person I didn't want to be into someone I wanted to be.<br />
<br />
Somewhere in the past few years, although very much a climber and very much in love with it, my passion wained and I often wondered if I would stop climbing, I thought that eventually it would take second place to other more important aspects of my life. I questioned whether I was a true "lifer", even though everyone else would say I was, I was never sure. Despite the fact that when I didn't want to go climbing something deep inside would force me too, I doubted the power of climbing. Yet time and time again, I would still end up wanting to put climbing before all else.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a_arW9RG_Bo/U_2OOCwQlkI/AAAAAAAAAZU/_l2PtllalJY/s1600/head%2Bhunter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a_arW9RG_Bo/U_2OOCwQlkI/AAAAAAAAAZU/_l2PtllalJY/s1600/head%2Bhunter.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up Head Hunter, E5 6a (c) GuyVG</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Recently, I have hit a real purple patch with my climbing and for the first time in many years felt <i>real </i>progress. I have progressed every year in some way, but this year my passion fired up as my life fell apart. This in itself is progress as I often looked to shy away from challenges in previous years. In the end it lead to me climbing what I consider to be my first E5. <i>Head Hunter</i>, in the very atmospheric Huntsman's Leap, Pembroke, has been a route I have dreamt of doing for a year or so now. Situated in my favourite crag it weaves a bold, technical line up the pink West Wall. It didn't disappoint. Upon topping out I felt a deep satisfaction that as a climber I rarely feel. The next day I climbed <i>Deep Space</i>, a wild E2 that made me grin from ear to ear. Climbing is good, the grade irrelevant.<br />
<br />
What the last few months have taught me is actually just how much climbing means to me. In many ways this is a little worrying. I now know that I am unlikely to ever live a normal life that I imagine my family wish for me. My future definitely looks a lot less certain than it ever has before, I thought I'd find this scary, but in reality I feel free.<br />
<br />
This all probably sounds pretty depressing, but in recent months I have found that there are definitely other people out there, however long or short our paths cross for is less important than the fact they did cross. When I had my job and Jess, I thought that that was it for the rest of my life, no more major changes. Instead there is more life out there to live, many more people to meet, places to see, parties to have and routes to climb. More adventure. I am only 24, the thought that I was set for life was actually unsettling rather than comforting.<br />
<br />
I have now realised where my priorities lie and that climbing is the thing that will pull me through life and give it probably its only real direction. Money holds little value to me, as long as I can go climbing. A big house has little value to me, as long as I live near crags. Expensive, flashy things are worthless in comparison to memories. What I have known all along is that happiness is key and that it is rarely bought.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5VjATPHfC3o/U_2OSjL2LUI/AAAAAAAAAZc/P3vRAZ8ASoY/s1600/happycheese.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5VjATPHfC3o/U_2OSjL2LUI/AAAAAAAAAZc/P3vRAZ8ASoY/s1600/happycheese.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happiness (c) GuyVG</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I don't know when I will next write another blog. But something compelled me to write this down. Climbing is a dangerous thing, however. I don't mean physically though obviously that too. You have to be careful not to measure your self-worth by your climbing ability - something that I think losing my job at UKClimbing has helped me shed. I often felt unworthy of the job having not climbed 'E5' - a big goal/deal for me, yet this held me back. You have to enjoy climbing for what it is, not for some ego boost.<br />
<br />
My new attitude towards life is summed up by the following (lame) phrase:<br />
<br />
<i>"If you don't shoot, you won't score" </i>- could be interesting to see where that takes me.<br />
<br />
What am I going to do in the future? The only certain is that I'll be climbing, and having a right good time with my best friends, and I guess that is actually all that matters. I'll still be the same as I've always been, and I still know that there is more to life than climbing, but for better or worse, climbing is the rock.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-2834868816547705412012-09-27T16:39:00.000-07:002012-10-15T08:16:33.296-07:00The Time Of My Life<div style="text-align: justify;">
I just realised that three years ago, I had been living in North Wales for less than a month! It is weird to think of the past three years and all they entailed as things of the past, and of course, much of it won't stop, but times are definately a-changing... </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
My move to North Wales really was a massive turning point in my life, and a big scary leap into the unpredictable unknown. The lead up to my leaving for university involved getting all the bits and bobs needed; pots, pans, plates, sheets, a laptop, the North Wales Rock guidebook, all vital things for a new Bangor university student. Bangor had been a potential place to study for well over a year by then, as I had applied here the first time round but had rejected their offer in favour of the academically better universities of Sheffield and Exeter. As fate would have it, I failed to get into either of these universities, something that I was gutted about to begin with, I really wanted to go to Sheffield; it was a big, exciting city with a good university and that was where all the climbers you read about in the magazines had studied! I considered my options and applied for a slightly different course and to slightly different universities to match my actual ambitions and my lower than predicted grades. Bangor and Sheffield were once again jostling for my favour. Having gained definite offers from both universities I headed off travelling on my gap year (Yah, it was sooo cultural, yah?), eventually ending up at Mt Arapiles, Australia where I met Dave Morse. I had only ever been climbing with Rob, who I had started with, so all of a sudden I had access to someone who not only knew what they were doing, but also who had done a lot of climbing in a wide variety of places from Yosemite through to Ceuse to Scottish winter climbing. I learned a lot from Dave and chatted with him about my university dilemma. I don't actually remember what he said about Sheffield, but I do remember him telling me that there was A LOT of good climbing in North Wales, much of it adventurous, but with a good variety and with the added bonus of being close to one of his favourite crags; Gogarth. In short, North Wales sounded like it had much of what the Peak had to offer and a whole lot more in climbing terms, though he reckoned that I would have to trade many perks of the city life for this. After spending months living in the dirt and climbing followed by time spent doing the normal route up the East Coast of Oz, getting drunk like normal backpackers, my decision was made and I accepted a place at Bangor University to read Environmental Conservation. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Upon returning home, I began climbing more with the locals and met a guy named Dom Jeff, an ex-bangor student who like me had gone to climb and had done so much climbing he was kicked out in his second year, he regaled me with tales of elegant, bold slate slabs, great days climbing in the sun in the Pass, lactic enducing sport routes on the Ormes, grippy goodness at Tremadog, though funnily he said that he didn't like Gogarth much and found it "reet scary youth". </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was mega excited, even more so the morning my new bible, 'North Wales Rock; Selected Rock Climbs in North Wales', landed with a thud on the doormat. I was always looking at it, at work, at home, I even took it on a climbing trip to Cornwall with Dom and asked him what routes were good. He reeled off names of classic routes I had heard of before "Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall, Superdirect, Vector, Pull My Daisy...". I starred all the routes I wanted to do, I could barely contain my excitement. Soon enough, the day to leave arrived and all of a sudden the fact I had never been to Bangor but was committing three years of my life to it seemed ridiculous.<br />
<br />
Full of nerves, we pulled into the car park at Normal Site, and my new life took it's first breath. I was scared and felt awkward with my Dad around, but I didn't want him to leave either. Soon enough, he left for home and I washed my fears away with cheap beer, meeting brilliant new people, and exploring new places. Slowly but surely fate revealed that it had known what it was doing all along; North Wales began to feel like home, I met some great people living in Normal Site, but I really felt at home upon joining Bangor University Mountaineering Society (BUMS). Out of all the freshers who had climbed before uni I wasn't the most experienced and was a long way away from being the best at climbing, with many of my peers climbing E2 or harder onsight and on big scary cliffs! This was brilliant though, where Dave had taught me a lot, like a sponge I was once again absorbing knowledge on everything from movement technique, ropework skills and the history of climbing. All the while I felt at home socialising with my non-climbing mates</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I vividly remember one morning having a shower after getting up and thinking how lucky I was to live in North Wales and be able to do loads of climbing and have a great time going out on the piss and lead an exciting varied and new life. All of a sudden I felt like the person I had longed to be throughout school was actually me! Here are a load of pictures that hold good memories for me...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HaiD2Hk8BQw/UGRyjAemIdI/AAAAAAAAAW8/GGNCRpdK5dM/s1600/9321_1150526876420_3409451_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HaiD2Hk8BQw/UGRyjAemIdI/AAAAAAAAAW8/GGNCRpdK5dM/s320/9321_1150526876420_3409451_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first night out as a Fresher in Bangor! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4pylCRQdys/UGRxTjAnrZI/AAAAAAAAAQc/Wdde25nPEQ0/s1600/10517_185236249675_3163286_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4pylCRQdys/UGRxTjAnrZI/AAAAAAAAAQc/Wdde25nPEQ0/s320/10517_185236249675_3163286_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two of my best friends from halls, Caroline 'Tittins' and Lowri,.<br />
Think we are in Paddys the first stop off on a night out from Normal Site.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d7-vqzm9ZZE/UGRyiC8gjsI/AAAAAAAAAW4/nHQA4eKEbjU/s1600/7530_162733493952_401935_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d7-vqzm9ZZE/UGRyiC8gjsI/AAAAAAAAAW4/nHQA4eKEbjU/s320/7530_162733493952_401935_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS Legendary Rubix Cube Night. <br />
Can you spot me?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e76PEjX-pPE/UGRxeHgY6sI/AAAAAAAAARg/1w6rSIs1yRc/s1600/17977_222324837996_2065405_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e76PEjX-pPE/UGRxeHgY6sI/AAAAAAAAARg/1w6rSIs1yRc/s320/17977_222324837996_2065405_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cold Autumn cragging in the Slate Quarries</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdxQs8F4fkM/UGRxWri7AVI/AAAAAAAAAQo/BiNwhxCCMQM/s1600/15953_323123140590_5044282_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdxQs8F4fkM/UGRxWri7AVI/AAAAAAAAAQo/BiNwhxCCMQM/s320/15953_323123140590_5044282_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS Peak Trip night out in Sheffield. <br />
Xmas-themed to contrast with the fact it was Hallowe'en.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FgUqAr2_ceE/UGRxUpeeYYI/AAAAAAAAAQk/hPuqvvPWqF0/s1600/13766_197722039598_7792372_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FgUqAr2_ceE/UGRxUpeeYYI/AAAAAAAAAQk/hPuqvvPWqF0/s320/13766_197722039598_7792372_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS Xmas Party, THE Alex Mason and THE George Ullrich to my right. Neither can climb for shit.<br />
Think I climbed Comes the Dervish earlier this day, which was a big step up at the time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKWN-pdtgUU/UGRxYEnwNOI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/wdzswOJQET8/s1600/16446_197536561090_2506157_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKWN-pdtgUU/UGRxYEnwNOI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/wdzswOJQET8/s320/16446_197536561090_2506157_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach Clean at Cable Bay, followed by Curry, beer and a fire on the beach.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HyiCLvylOwk/UGRyg5c2oOI/AAAAAAAAAWw/TkIaH6Y81KQ/s1600/7430_183806745020_3660676_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HyiCLvylOwk/UGRyg5c2oOI/AAAAAAAAAWw/TkIaH6Y81KQ/s320/7430_183806745020_3660676_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom 'Bubbles' living up to his nickname at a Foam Party in Occy... <br />
These things are good once. Just once.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-elIa2pl6vY8/UGRxqt2_6oI/AAAAAAAAASo/ZSI12VfjTrs/s1600/25300_491914885135_5930369_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-elIa2pl6vY8/UGRxqt2_6oI/AAAAAAAAASo/ZSI12VfjTrs/s320/25300_491914885135_5930369_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carnage in Aberystwyth with an old school friend. Geeky.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RDYk0Z0caV8/UGRxslniHHI/AAAAAAAAASs/_NdEnACiFhg/s1600/25442_349554847160_7448504_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RDYk0Z0caV8/UGRxslniHHI/AAAAAAAAASs/_NdEnACiFhg/s320/25442_349554847160_7448504_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS (4person) trip to pembroke in February 2010. <br />
Me leading Lucky Strike, a must do!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JTMGQ9f3gCU/UGRxZALYhrI/AAAAAAAAARE/vDjNFRMSTl4/s1600/165180_10150117334872806_7117714_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JTMGQ9f3gCU/UGRxZALYhrI/AAAAAAAAARE/vDjNFRMSTl4/s320/165180_10150117334872806_7117714_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day I really cocked up, setting off up Excursion, on the Orme, <br />
I fell off high up, ripped a load of gear, missed the belay ledge <br />
and stopped just shy of the road. Chopper.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Yb5gC4LZcA/UGRxmdabQyI/AAAAAAAAASI/2rr_2qxMIS4/s1600/20635_310834346304_4273012_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Yb5gC4LZcA/UGRxmdabQyI/AAAAAAAAASI/2rr_2qxMIS4/s320/20635_310834346304_4273012_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS Cartoon characters night out. L-R Ella, Bubbles, Me, Rach, Harry.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6l9vCJ1WD4/UGRxvLRDHkI/AAAAAAAAATI/UUJaAZbJwuc/s1600/25847_361427102786_4108816_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6l9vCJ1WD4/UGRxvLRDHkI/AAAAAAAAATI/UUJaAZbJwuc/s320/25847_361427102786_4108816_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four Pebble Slab, Froggatt. An early E3 for me.<br />
BUMS March 2010 Peak trip.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uXrjwtwXC8A/UGRx0E0V8EI/AAAAAAAAATs/It2JXKzwwDM/s1600/26814_10150133512680533_5623932_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uXrjwtwXC8A/UGRx0E0V8EI/AAAAAAAAATs/It2JXKzwwDM/s320/26814_10150133512680533_5623932_n.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never let people patronise you...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xTnWdSNpvUE/UGRxogF4pXI/AAAAAAAAASU/R4GWme19Tac/s1600/21055_333222120224_6307285_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xTnWdSNpvUE/UGRxogF4pXI/AAAAAAAAASU/R4GWme19Tac/s320/21055_333222120224_6307285_n.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal Site shenanigans, the day Ben's kayak was mysteriously found hanging out of a window... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9F79arGuOPk/UGRxtS9huTI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TLa7LMxGIUA/s1600/25617_10150152617375533_3400172_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9F79arGuOPk/UGRxtS9huTI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TLa7LMxGIUA/s320/25617_10150152617375533_3400172_n.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter 2010 Sport Climbing trip to Turkey. Me soloing a sweet little 5+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXW7VlWNQZQ/UGRxudLVqNI/AAAAAAAAATA/ylQlddXgcmE/s1600/25706_10150161915315582_2671205_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXW7VlWNQZQ/UGRxudLVqNI/AAAAAAAAATA/ylQlddXgcmE/s320/25706_10150161915315582_2671205_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting spanked on a 7a in Turkey!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QRTeml1aiew/UGRxwHGxh2I/AAAAAAAAATQ/05d6F7C-Rro/s1600/26345_10150119906300442_1236590_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QRTeml1aiew/UGRxwHGxh2I/AAAAAAAAATQ/05d6F7C-Rro/s320/26345_10150119906300442_1236590_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A quick break from revison with some Twister! <br />
Tittins winning...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M131Vz3xhn4/UGRx6rJQ9zI/AAAAAAAAAUY/Bh9lYjSa4rA/s1600/29497_406808537160_8262746_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M131Vz3xhn4/UGRx6rJQ9zI/AAAAAAAAAUY/Bh9lYjSa4rA/s320/29497_406808537160_8262746_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revision break at LPT, getting spanked on Pink Pinkie Snuffs it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ABWAXbyukW4/UGRxzBYS_tI/AAAAAAAAATk/w1J_cYSxWaE/s1600/26579_1299263354739_6770933_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ABWAXbyukW4/UGRxzBYS_tI/AAAAAAAAATk/w1J_cYSxWaE/s320/26579_1299263354739_6770933_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><blockquote class="tr_bq">
Hanging out on Normal Site Beach</blockquote>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ylqpn8fWeI/UGRyAxM4aHI/AAAAAAAAAU4/vzdjjCjomYY/s1600/30976_440329860224_5747629_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ylqpn8fWeI/UGRyAxM4aHI/AAAAAAAAAU4/vzdjjCjomYY/s320/30976_440329860224_5747629_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Scarlet Runner, Bus Stop Quarry. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cot_2IN2KnI/UGRx7uOSaCI/AAAAAAAAAUc/YMmwygTFjOo/s1600/29680_391756425193_2084022_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cot_2IN2KnI/UGRx7uOSaCI/AAAAAAAAAUc/YMmwygTFjOo/s320/29680_391756425193_2084022_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal Site Summer Ball. Best Halls in Bangor. <br />
Yes, I did grow a lot in a few months... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7RRE7CLfy4/UGRyB4kg5II/AAAAAAAAAVA/JBK61GBj78M/s1600/31968_10150196551240582_5530990_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7RRE7CLfy4/UGRyB4kg5II/AAAAAAAAAVA/JBK61GBj78M/s320/31968_10150196551240582_5530990_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ballsford and I at the top of The Weaver, one of the best routes at Bwlch y Moch.<br />
The start of living like outlaws for June 2010, raiding leftover food from<br />
other kitchens in halls and climbing loads.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2bXR_XTEA8/UGRyC_h8SFI/AAAAAAAAAVI/_zC81qVxX30/s1600/31992_780381153365_4219366_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2bXR_XTEA8/UGRyC_h8SFI/AAAAAAAAAVI/_zC81qVxX30/s320/31992_780381153365_4219366_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An atmospheric lead of Quartz Icicle in Wen Zawn. <br />
One of many good days out with Dave Morse, a friend I met in Australia!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FPQ-yMBqbcU/UGRyENTLanI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/gWiCp4GLqyg/s1600/31992_780381163345_1884307_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FPQ-yMBqbcU/UGRyENTLanI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/gWiCp4GLqyg/s320/31992_780381163345_1884307_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VECTOR! A Tremadog classic. <br />
Another good day out with Dave!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6-7kN9a9YTE/UGRyFYhmDMI/AAAAAAAAAVY/sIxYhyikalo/s1600/35736_785146663245_3588384_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6-7kN9a9YTE/UGRyFYhmDMI/AAAAAAAAAVY/sIxYhyikalo/s320/35736_785146663245_3588384_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bangor Uni Dossers. L-R, Ballsford, Bubbles and Me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKwg4zJRie4/UGRyIXS6gGI/AAAAAAAAAVo/D2HhS9Nx2xE/s1600/37398_10150219829500424_656197_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKwg4zJRie4/UGRyIXS6gGI/AAAAAAAAAVo/D2HhS9Nx2xE/s320/37398_10150219829500424_656197_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't forget your oldest friends from home!<br />
Emily, Me and Chris.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD2akcds7Nc/UGRyGdAv75I/AAAAAAAAAVg/dmDHQVjjJjk/s1600/35852_1297252523982_3421674_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD2akcds7Nc/UGRyGdAv75I/AAAAAAAAAVg/dmDHQVjjJjk/s320/35852_1297252523982_3421674_n.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect cragging weather (very rare) in the Llanberis Pass.<br />
Overlapping Wall, Carreg Wasted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRzILE_rWcY/UGRyexXbqFI/AAAAAAAAAWo/6800JOG7vuU/s1600/66531_483373812805_4025688_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRzILE_rWcY/UGRyexXbqFI/AAAAAAAAAWo/6800JOG7vuU/s320/66531_483373812805_4025688_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning Glory, Portland weekend hit. Mikey G basking in it. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nnlW_lXaCTc/UGRyd24XEvI/AAAAAAAAAWg/Ua1cKQB8xS0/s1600/63447_110831858989924_1771685_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nnlW_lXaCTc/UGRyd24XEvI/AAAAAAAAAWg/Ua1cKQB8xS0/s320/63447_110831858989924_1771685_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting Jess through BUMS early in my second year, <br />
one of the best things to happen to me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LjorcV06VXs/UGRxXcWEKXI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/vEJSd-_zXPI/s1600/162934_10150334395535150_2081436_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LjorcV06VXs/UGRxXcWEKXI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/vEJSd-_zXPI/s320/162934_10150334395535150_2081436_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freezing our bollocks off on a portaledge party on the Cromlech in December.<br />
For George's birthday. A night I'll never forget. Got a lot of shivering done.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zfqI1RtONLo/UGRxaVz9apI/AAAAAAAAARM/Yjn2fQlbzTY/s1600/166361_474753817996_5161190_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zfqI1RtONLo/UGRxaVz9apI/AAAAAAAAARM/Yjn2fQlbzTY/s320/166361_474753817996_5161190_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pre-xmas in the Lakes. <br />
L-R Bubbles and Nikki, Jess and I, Rach T and Ed, Heather and Ollie.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BZYM4XXAXKE/UGRxc0GBqyI/AAAAAAAAARY/FkNPKozoSdI/s1600/172176_10150384932685618_709582_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BZYM4XXAXKE/UGRxc0GBqyI/AAAAAAAAARY/FkNPKozoSdI/s320/172176_10150384932685618_709582_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheep Pen Bouldering. Dog Shooter.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-opw2PMYnKcI/UGRxgKuW28I/AAAAAAAAARw/lixepU0q0Wk/s1600/189974_10150113252374630_7255344_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-opw2PMYnKcI/UGRxgKuW28I/AAAAAAAAARw/lixepU0q0Wk/s320/189974_10150113252374630_7255344_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS Social, "When I grow up I wanna be..." </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uF3Ua-XQjv0/UGRxkC9PCqI/AAAAAAAAASA/fDQs0XO6mUY/s1600/199995_859301177005_662230_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uF3Ua-XQjv0/UGRxkC9PCqI/AAAAAAAAASA/fDQs0XO6mUY/s320/199995_859301177005_662230_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Dave below the top pitch of Cream. <br />
Fell off on my onsight attempt but the feeling of being on<br />
the Vector headwall is a special memory of mine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQg3qgwpJ4k/UGRxh_2z1YI/AAAAAAAAAR4/I6Y6k_CckI8/s1600/198201_10150200565195470_1025210_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQg3qgwpJ4k/UGRxh_2z1YI/AAAAAAAAAR4/I6Y6k_CckI8/s320/198201_10150200565195470_1025210_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Butcher, April 2011 Pembroke Trip. A great trip!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRuWlVrxyVc/UGRxn3yWiRI/AAAAAAAAASQ/rSNLs2aY0xI/s1600/209900_10150570159790618_3272555_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRuWlVrxyVc/UGRxn3yWiRI/AAAAAAAAASQ/rSNLs2aY0xI/s320/209900_10150570159790618_3272555_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter 2011 trip to El Chorro, the sandwiches and the odd day of sunshine <br />
were a bonus to the great routes we climbed.<span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jB_RJdbodgQ/UGRxxY00RbI/AAAAAAAAATY/iNuRT8JQZIw/s1600/264046_10150323224510470_6040463_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jB_RJdbodgQ/UGRxxY00RbI/AAAAAAAAATY/iNuRT8JQZIw/s320/264046_10150323224510470_6040463_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch on Memorial Ledge, Squamish... June 2011</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
Squamish was an awesome trip taken during the summer holidays after 2nd Year, with my good friend, Heather Florence. We had a brilliant month learning to climb cracks, climbing some big routes fast and free. Read <a href="http://climbingblogblog.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/squamish-select.html" target="_blank">Squamish Select</a> for more info!</div>
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HnZM3P0xDw/UGRx4jHRqsI/AAAAAAAAAUI/ryulRhaHkoU/s1600/284692_10150323227190470_4040147_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HnZM3P0xDw/UGRx4jHRqsI/AAAAAAAAAUI/ryulRhaHkoU/s320/284692_10150323227190470_4040147_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather and I on the summit of the Chief, Squamish having just climbed the Angel's Crest. Awesome.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8RRj7MA7Bs/UGRx0zL8jWI/AAAAAAAAAT4/RzrFkwTn3Us/s1600/268901_10150323231935470_898224_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8RRj7MA7Bs/UGRx0zL8jWI/AAAAAAAAAT4/RzrFkwTn3Us/s320/268901_10150323231935470_898224_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">True dat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BbjXvw6QsPQ/UGRxpcn0IOI/AAAAAAAAASg/Ad80FYc0XpI/s1600/224560_10150317977476343_7701619_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BbjXvw6QsPQ/UGRxpcn0IOI/AAAAAAAAASg/Ad80FYc0XpI/s320/224560_10150317977476343_7701619_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great day at Suicide Walls with Mason, here I am warming us up <br />
for the day on the classic Suicide Wall Route 1.<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Had a great week trip to Wales from home. First up headed to North Wales, had a great day bouldering at Angel Bay, Chaos Emerald Crack being a highlight. The next day, Al and me headed to Suicide Walls, where I ticked Route 1 and Capital Punishment. Al climbed a new E6 called Decomposed. The next day we headed to Cloggy and did West Buttress Eliminate. I then headed down to Pembroke with Dave Morse and we smashed a load of quality routes in in two days!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Zb8lQAK1gg/UGRx3I1eALI/AAAAAAAAAUA/fYdfQJrihWo/s1600/280444_10150712975975618_3056731_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Zb8lQAK1gg/UGRx3I1eALI/AAAAAAAAAUA/fYdfQJrihWo/s320/280444_10150712975975618_3056731_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiles all round on sunny sea-side Granite in Cornwall.<br />
L-R Me, Jess and Mark.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Quality little trip to Cornwall, Post Squamish. Did loads of great routes, the best of which was Glass Arete, stunning!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e0M0nsifmQ4/UGRx8tUjWPI/AAAAAAAAAUo/o8NH3Ax4854/s1600/297230_10150380209820470_1046034983_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e0M0nsifmQ4/UGRx8tUjWPI/AAAAAAAAAUo/o8NH3Ax4854/s320/297230_10150380209820470_1046034983_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When in Wales... get naked and chase some sheep.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wZGxtwwn4Og/UGRx57VxFAI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/65NgVfN4zfA/s1600/292084_10150424555961383_800324624_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wZGxtwwn4Og/UGRx57VxFAI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/65NgVfN4zfA/s320/292084_10150424555961383_800324624_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles and I fell-running on the Carneddau with Livingstone. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMkvSroQYeU/UGRx_PhoEpI/AAAAAAAAAUw/0JWgIywygJ8/s1600/308888_10150420118880225_14192875_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sMkvSroQYeU/UGRx_PhoEpI/AAAAAAAAAUw/0JWgIywygJ8/s320/308888_10150420118880225_14192875_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles having fun on the top pitch of Moonraker,<br />
a classic HVS at Berry Head, Devon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-usFTNS8YTpc/UGRyuFKMJOI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/B4JeCMupcJI/s1600/Chummer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-usFTNS8YTpc/UGRyuFKMJOI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/B4JeCMupcJI/s320/Chummer.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris Carroll... looking pretty special at the special venue that is Porth Ysgo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--KhFWoAhXQc/UGRzRZDP-SI/AAAAAAAAAX8/-wvqCTWhBac/s1600/Strange+Tom+Ripley.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--KhFWoAhXQc/UGRzRZDP-SI/AAAAAAAAAX8/-wvqCTWhBac/s320/Strange+Tom+Ripley.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles losing all sense of reason upon finding his beloved snow...<br />
My first day out in winter, Feb 2012.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--1WeVq2sjXA/UGRyXrdMiyI/AAAAAAAAAWA/p2h5dwgB79o/s1600/420538_10151237367750533_198596942_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--1WeVq2sjXA/UGRyXrdMiyI/AAAAAAAAAWA/p2h5dwgB79o/s320/420538_10151237367750533_198596942_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once people catch on that you are small, they never leave you alone...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4bhtpdGzRHw/UGRyaWr92NI/AAAAAAAAAWI/aG8OV2M285s/s1600/469357_10100342334097135_913931949_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4bhtpdGzRHw/UGRyaWr92NI/AAAAAAAAAWI/aG8OV2M285s/s320/469357_10100342334097135_913931949_o.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early season Grit Trip, finally sending the ultra classic Not To Be Taken Away.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i64ZVZrWRWo/UGRxR2_NS1I/AAAAAAAAAQU/AD9_g77DtFg/s1600/042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i64ZVZrWRWo/UGRxR2_NS1I/AAAAAAAAAQU/AD9_g77DtFg/s320/042.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter 2012 trip to Scotland... TEAM<br />
L-R Bubbles, Jimmy and Me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Bubbles, Jimmy and I headed to Skye to try and do the Cuillin Ridge but unfortunately it snowed the night before we were due to try it, so we headed to Kilt Rock, where Bubbles lead Grey Panther. Then Scooted over to Diabaig in Torridon, where we climbed some great single pitch routes such as The Pillar.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ouBpigszsA/UGRy9OoArPI/AAAAAAAAAXY/Du_Qnq7PDOY/s1600/Good+Times.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ouBpigszsA/UGRy9OoArPI/AAAAAAAAAXY/Du_Qnq7PDOY/s320/Good+Times.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles and Jimmy at the top of Grey Panther. <br />
Bubbles' first Extreme Rock Tick! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ce_JVp0ymNQ/UGRyVbZ_dDI/AAAAAAAAAVw/xhWyOTe8vfU/s1600/3rd+year+Dissertation.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ce_JVp0ymNQ/UGRyVbZ_dDI/AAAAAAAAAVw/xhWyOTe8vfU/s320/3rd+year+Dissertation.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very happy memory, finally handing in/getting rid of my dissertation. Wooop!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Im6J0Pb85VU/UGRxfFP2OEI/AAAAAAAAARo/dWAnyDDDj7M/s1600/182812_10151752660755618_1249350950_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Im6J0Pb85VU/UGRxfFP2OEI/AAAAAAAAARo/dWAnyDDDj7M/s320/182812_10151752660755618_1249350950_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the end of exams in Llanfairfechan with Jess.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIFPWZQpe3U/UGRzF_kDMJI/AAAAAAAAAX0/x-o0ztkxPAU/s1600/Pabbay+Campsite.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIFPWZQpe3U/UGRzF_kDMJI/AAAAAAAAAX0/x-o0ztkxPAU/s320/Pabbay+Campsite.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paradise... The campsite on Pabbay, Outer Hebrides Scotland.<br />
Officially finished Uni now... what a way to celebrate!<br />
June 2012.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0i6U9wKZnw/UGRylyUFi-I/AAAAAAAAAXI/mPLz7RQqmic/s1600/Bridging+wide+on+Spit+in+Paradise,+(E4+6a).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0i6U9wKZnw/UGRylyUFi-I/AAAAAAAAAXI/mPLz7RQqmic/s320/Bridging+wide+on+Spit+in+Paradise,+(E4+6a).JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spit In Paradise. Awesome route, shared with two good friends...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OR3h7677Dw/UGRzU2qZq5I/AAAAAAAAAYE/fezdwp1zrqU/s1600/The+Great+Arch+awash+with+the+last+rays+of+the+sun.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5OR3h7677Dw/UGRzU2qZq5I/AAAAAAAAAYE/fezdwp1zrqU/s320/The+Great+Arch+awash+with+the+last+rays+of+the+sun.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Great Arch, Pabbay, awash in the evening light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FhAYtDhDZkI/UGRycpjJqzI/AAAAAAAAAWY/oDGJacpKdAE/s1600/560218_10150878990627087_1513116637_n+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FhAYtDhDZkI/UGRycpjJqzI/AAAAAAAAAWY/oDGJacpKdAE/s320/560218_10150878990627087_1513116637_n+(1).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pabbay-Mingulay Team on top of the ruined house on Pabbay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnkitpwODLc/UGRzDrxPaXI/AAAAAAAAAXo/sL7eSRDMxIc/s1600/Jimmy+and+Gwen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bnkitpwODLc/UGRzDrxPaXI/AAAAAAAAAXo/sL7eSRDMxIc/s320/Jimmy+and+Gwen.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jimmy and Gwen on Voyage of Faith, Mingulay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pabbay & Mingulay, potentially the best climbing trip I've ever been on, perfect weather, perfect location, all shared with just your best mates. Here's more info on <a href="http://climbingblogblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/your-own-desert-island-paradise-its.html" target="_blank">you're own desert paradise</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sb5AbotZZB0/UGRybqsmkeI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/X4RtgcZG8pI/s1600/552095_10152107382700727_805694763_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sb5AbotZZB0/UGRybqsmkeI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/X4RtgcZG8pI/s320/552095_10152107382700727_805694763_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visiting Jess in Glossop. Climbing at Hobson Moor Quarry with Woody the dog.<br />
Smiles all round!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XZHv3PKjwCk/UGRxybYnxGI/AAAAAAAAATg/ax0kTlxWNmU/s1600/264882_10152107423140727_869732244_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XZHv3PKjwCk/UGRxybYnxGI/AAAAAAAAATg/ax0kTlxWNmU/s320/264882_10152107423140727_869732244_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben and I on Appian Way, Castell y Gwynt.<br />
A great day and one of the last I spent with Ben before he moved back to Yorkshire.<br />
(Yes, I know I look like a total Chummer...)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xcbSIOzCoEU/UGRyWhFr7jI/AAAAAAAAAV4/bjUiNyadwzI/s1600/418874_10151063397498068_1785128180_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xcbSIOzCoEU/UGRyWhFr7jI/AAAAAAAAAV4/bjUiNyadwzI/s320/418874_10151063397498068_1785128180_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start of non-student life: A quick trip to Ceuse in South France.<br />
L-R Me, Robbie Rocket Pants, Si.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qR1KNNWQ3-I/UGSQhZKnEHI/AAAAAAAAAYk/r-LpUNpec78/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qR1KNNWQ3-I/UGSQhZKnEHI/AAAAAAAAAYk/r-LpUNpec78/s320/025.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bible looking well 'loved' and patched up.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So there are just a load of photos I've nicked off facebook (cheers!) to show some of the great times I've had at Uni, there are many, many more but no photographic evidence. Coming to Bangor has completely changed the course of my life and now I struggle to think of living anywhere but North Wales. This blog post is mainly just a way of saying thanks to everyone I've met and hung out with/got drunk with/gone climbing with throughout the last three years. It's been absolutely awesome and I really have had the time of my life. So thank you all! To anyone thinking of, or just arrived in Bangor get ready for three of the best years of your life!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Can't wait to see what the next few years have in store!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-42419977870079650512012-07-26T09:52:00.001-07:002012-07-26T09:52:22.802-07:00Stuck in Neutral...<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white;">So it seems that I am currently struggling with 'progression' as driving instructors would call it. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Right now, the summer of 2012 is not panning out how it was supposed to, this was supposed to be THE year of crushing, get my degree out the way, finally spend the whole summer in North Wales, get out into the mountains and get all those amazing routes experienced.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
What the motherflip has happened!?!?!? Pabbay set me up perfectly, did two more E4s and got loads of good mileage in too! But then this massive, huge cloud came and messed it all up. The weather totally killed my drive, and seemed to dampen the fire inside. Every time I stoked it up to go out to try a hard route I want to do, it turns out to be wet! </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Having just got back from a few days at home with my family, I kept getting the question every recently graduated student (unemployed person) dreads; "Soo, have you got a proper job yet?". I currently am working as a freelance instructor at a High Ropes Course. The work is fairly enjoyable, pretty well paid and beautifully flexible. But none of that matters, because the weather has been so crappy that I may as well be earning loads of money so that I can run away somewhere sunny over the winter. I don't have a burning desire to instruct, its fun and all that, but I think I would struggle to remain motivation for my own climbing if I spent every day taking punters climbing monday-friday. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
But here is the truly burning question... What the bloody hell do I want to do?? Do I need to worry?? What the bloody hell do I want to do??</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Either way, in a complete turnaround from feeling like I had forever left to climb all those dream routes after Pabbay, I now feel like the summer is running away from me and that all too soon I'll be working full time and winter will have North Wales in its' icey grip... This feeling is exacerbated by the fact that a lot of my time is taken up by bloody driving lessons. Additionally, I said I was interested in going to the Alps at the end of the summer, thinking that I'd nail learning to drive around climbing loads in the warm, sunny, Welsh summer. Now it seems like this will be the time when North Wales is bathed in golden sunshine whilst I'm in the Alps, trudging up massive tottering pieces of choss/climbing some amazing big routes. I don't know whether its something I want to do or not, this alpinism lark.<br />
</div>
You didn't hear this from me, but I'm not the world's most natural driver. I may as well have said I don't have a penis, but hey. Its a frustrating/interesting learning curve really, breaking driving down into things I am good at, and things I am bad at is very much like trying to improve at climbing. In fact, having a driving instructor is a good insight into good coaching. It also reinforces the old adage "train your weaknesses", except I have someone forcing me to do the stuff I am rubbish at. So it's not all bad, but it does take up valuable climbing time, and use up literally valuable currency. In addition to this, I have recently learnt my younger brother passed his driving test first time after about 20 lessons. I have had close to 20 lessons, and I am not ready to take a test... What the HELL!?!?! Well its a bloody good effort anyway. Either way, I really wish I had learnt to drive whilst I was 17 or at uni, if you are reading this as a 16 year old who, like my younger self, thinks its crap to learn to drive because everyone else is. Get over yourself, it is a total ball-ache learning when you are older. Plus you look like a total loser. Bad times.<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Right now, sitting at home struggling to find a climbing partner, I feel like I have missed yet more good weather, but with any luck the weather will take a turn for the better and suddenly driving will click and all of a sudden, BOOSH! 2012 will be back on track...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until then, I'll keep on keeping on and hopefully I'll come across a dry testpiece soon enough!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-43249633624022864972012-07-03T15:50:00.000-07:002012-07-03T16:03:08.487-07:00The Great British Washout...<div style="text-align: justify;">
Through the open window in my temporary home, I can hear the sound of rain falling. This seems to happen with alarming regularity right now in North Wales, and seemingly across the UK with my Gran even booking a last minute holiday abroad to escape Devon's wetness!!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The forecast is very unreliable, and a dry spell can appear or disappear from day to day. You start dreaming of doing a certain route at a certain place in the next window of opportunity, and then the window closes and your route gets a bucket of water thrown at it.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The mountains of North Wales are a complete write-off, I never got much of a chance to climb in the mountains as a student, as I tended to be revising or gone when the best weather struck. Consequently, I was psyched for the Pass this summer, but as always, fate has other plans for you...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I feel frustrated. VERY frustrated. In addition to this, I am in my third house in as many weeks. First, I was given less than 24 hours to vacate my student house, I moved into Jess' student house for a few days before I had to vacate that, and now I'm in a friends house but only for another 6 days. This, combined with having no job, bad weather and a girlfriend in the Peak District makes Dunky an unhappy chappy. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel, even if it is just proverbially.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I have secured myself a convenient job. This is conveniently located between Vivian Slate Quarry and Llanberis. I am to be rising to the heady heights of becoming a "High Ropes Course Instructor"... after they've checked me out to ensure I'm not a total punter... I'm not am I?? This is great as the pay is pretty good and the work exceedingly flexible, and I'm eating into my savings at the minute, which isn't great...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In addition to this, it seems as though we may have found a house, <i>in</i> Llanberis, that is affordable if not quite the sort of quality we would have liked. Well, it is a toss up between this house and a nicer one in Llanrug which is further out of Llanberis, the heart of the North Wales climbing 'scene'. I think we are going to pursue the former.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Since Pabbay, I have managed to get out a bit, but not all that much! First few days back were good. though I didn't make the most of them. An afternoon climbing at Yellow Walls with fellow Devonian Sam Farnsworth was great and I managed to tick a route I have wanted to for a long time; The Sind (E3 5b/c) and Creeping Lemma (E2/3 5c). Both very good but very differing routes. The Sind (Sand in Cymraeg) was as the name suggested, sandy shuffley udging up an overhanging corner/slab, very awkward with a little emotional terror thrown in to make it memorable... The Creeping Lemma on the otherhand was wacky and wild! Offering unconventional moves on the middle pitch and strenuous, well-protected awkwardness on the final pitch.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
*Warning* I recently heard that the final easy corner section of Creeping Lemma has recently fallen down due to extreme Welsh weather... proceed with caution it's bloody pissing it down out there...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i0W-aEM_QDM/T_N13RVbebI/AAAAAAAAAPs/OvcmeNJn-Y4/s1600/12298_10150136033360302_2921792_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i0W-aEM_QDM/T_N13RVbebI/AAAAAAAAAPs/OvcmeNJn-Y4/s320/12298_10150136033360302_2921792_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Al Mason on the lower, dustier section of The Sind (E3 5b/c)<br />
(c) Mikey Goldthorp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Next up, I made steps to break down my mental barrier with the Cromlech by climbing Memory Lane (E3 5c). It's good that I can get up top-end bold E3's when my psyche is lacking! Afterwards I seconded Ballsford up Foil, a brilliant effort and the opposite of Memory Lane, with hard climbing for E3, but more runners than you can shake a stick at.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QHicbnmfMco/T_N14-G-VSI/AAAAAAAAAP0/w_-bx9rxhd8/s1600/12298_10150135958580302_6842048_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QHicbnmfMco/T_N14-G-VSI/AAAAAAAAAP0/w_-bx9rxhd8/s320/12298_10150135958580302_6842048_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Gray taking a trip <i>up</i> Memory Lane (E3 5c)<br />
(c) Mikey Goldthorp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: white;">An afternoon at Craig Doris with aspirant Alpine Guide Tom Grant almost made me shit my pants when I got on a wet E1 5a going on E2/3 5b! 'Votes for Dogs' involved loose rock, wet rock and dirty rock, in multiple combinations. The final steep crux finale was fairly damp too though luckily I finally got in more than one piece of gear that was definitely bomber. Still wouldn't be a nice fall though...</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w_cPK9X1jLk/T_Ny2RSV-8I/AAAAAAAAAPY/11cDLPM3z-E/s1600/Craig+Doris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w_cPK9X1jLk/T_Ny2RSV-8I/AAAAAAAAAPY/11cDLPM3z-E/s320/Craig+Doris.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig Doris... it just <i>wants</i> to fall down!<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4DcrJpBhhWM/T_Ny41f5bLI/AAAAAAAAAPg/QiE6SYhclc8/s1600/Votes+for+Dogs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4DcrJpBhhWM/T_Ny41f5bLI/AAAAAAAAAPg/QiE6SYhclc8/s320/Votes+for+Dogs.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owain on the lower section of Votes for Dogs (E1-3 5a/b)<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The next day we headed to Gogarth and hoped to get a route in on Main Cliff, unfortunately the waves were smashing the bottom of the crag so we did a few nice multipitches on the Upper Tier including; Park Lane/Doomsville (E2 5b), Fifth avenue (E1 5c), and Fail Safe (E2 5b). A great little day.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hopefully the weather will improve once I have been home for a bit! Otherwise, it looks as though I'll be trying to save some money to get abroad over the winter... In the meantime, here is a video of our trip to Pabbay and Mingulay, made by Callum;<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/44376036" target="_blank">Pabbay and Mingulay 2012</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-51139990058537404452012-06-14T08:28:00.000-07:002012-07-03T15:53:28.605-07:00Your own desert island paradise... It's closer than you realise...<div style="text-align: justify;">
And the name of your new favourite place??</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Pabbay and Mingulay, two uninhabited islands on the Southern end of the Outer Hebrides off the West Coast of bonnie Scotland. Ok so maybe they won't be yours, but they have certainly earnt themselves a solid place in my list of favourite climbing destinations. And it seems they have this effect upon most people who go there, even without weather as good as we were lucky to have.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A group of 11 fun-loving trad crushers loosely based around having attended Bangor University (with a couple of exceptions) were assembled by Jimmy Marjot, and after various people saying yes then no, and some organisational fuck-ups, we all finally merged in Oban, Scotland on May the 26th.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
After a late and long ferry journey from Oban to Barra, we hopped over a fence into a grassy field and eventually fell asleep despite the insistence of the Corncrakes that we stay awake. Soon enough, sunlight and the morning came and we packed up and giddily boarded the 'Boy James' in which, Donald and his crew took us off to our home for the next 7 days, Pabbay.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oyvCbguWiM/T9jszD9q3gI/AAAAAAAAALc/voKu6bef2D8/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oyvCbguWiM/T9jszD9q3gI/AAAAAAAAALc/voKu6bef2D8/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Oban</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7UqzcIFozUM/T9js1dQKJmI/AAAAAAAAALk/TBI9YvnOONM/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7UqzcIFozUM/T9js1dQKJmI/AAAAAAAAALk/TBI9YvnOONM/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+006.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark, George and Mason all show their psyche in different ways...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qxEKbr00W7c/T9js3rZS2-I/AAAAAAAAALs/EACyzouT-9M/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qxEKbr00W7c/T9js3rZS2-I/AAAAAAAAALs/EACyzouT-9M/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+016.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off to Pabbay!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
As we turned towards our landing spot, I could hardly believe my eyes; a beauitful, pristine beach of white sand leading into the clearest, blue-est sea I had ever seen. It was like something out of a holiday brochure to the Caribbean! After boarding the scarily small landing boat, we were soon back on dry land... and what a place! A ruined house sat a few hundred metres away, the beach a few hundred metres to the North, and with any luck a metric fuck-load of perfect, juggy gneiss to the South-West. We had some grub and after a while everyone left to go and sample our first taste of Pabbay climbing.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oiXoXapkuEA/T9js5obAqPI/AAAAAAAAAL0/MLct4U-hUsg/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oiXoXapkuEA/T9js5obAqPI/AAAAAAAAAL0/MLct4U-hUsg/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+019.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Oooh, Heaven is a place on Earth"<br />
Pabbay Campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
From now on life would be beautifully simple; eat, sleep, drink and climb, until we got picked up and taken to Mingulay for the remaining 3 and a half days of the trip. A real adventure, we even had to buy <i>all </i>our food in Tesco's before we got there, I sure as hell hoped we had enough, or we'd be experiencing those stories about pirates being left on desert Islands to starve. Bad times.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I won't bore you with a day-by-day, jug-by-humungous, grippy jug account of the climbing, I'll give you the top 5 highlights and boy is this going to be tricky!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Onsighting Sugar Cane Country (E4 6a), was the highlight of the trip for me. It has been a route I have wanted to do for years, ever since I saw a picture of a steep wall of perfect gneiss with a line of crimps weaving up it. As soon as I saw the picture, I knew that one day I had to climb it. But after 2 days of climbing I felt tired and wasn't sure I could pull a lead like that out of the bag. After a quick warm up I racked up and just took it move by move and after a good fight topped out elated! </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Spit in Paradise (E4 6a) was another moment where I doubted my ability, except this route was much more of a team effort. Ben, Fingers and I had all been recommended the route by everyone who had done it, "Three E4 pitches going through some amazing ground, and a wild abseil in!". It was steep that much was certain, but would we be able to do it? The ab in didn't help, right down the line of the route except the further you slid down the rope the further away the route got. Luckily Ben crushed the first, bird-infested pitch, I got the the next slightly sandy pitch, and Fingers the short, but wild corner to top out!</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Spring Squill (E1 5b), pitch one of this route is absolutely amazing - HUGE jugs blasting up some great overhanging territory! Just great fun and confidence inspiring so you just run it out between the obvious bomber placements. Big smiles on this one.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Corncrakes for Breakfast (E2 5c) did this on a very hot day and thought I was going to melt onto the rock. The crux felt desperate on the small holds (for Pabbay). Upon abbing back down it became apparent how steep the wall is!</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Voyage of Faith (E3 5c) climbed as a three with Gwen and Fingers, great fun a real nice route, though we did get a bit lost due to the lack of topos for Mingulay and the vague route descriptions caused us to do a completely horizontal traverse pitch! By chance I got pitch 2, (the best one!) which involves a brilliant rising traverse above the lip of a massive sea-cave. Belay penguin chocolate bars and jokes made it a real fun, sociable route! </li>
</ul>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lX_Bb7X0Q9o/T9n8J_-QWjI/AAAAAAAAAO0/URC1XnwxMRg/s1600/401857_3457289027767_245855379_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lX_Bb7X0Q9o/T9n8J_-QWjI/AAAAAAAAAO0/URC1XnwxMRg/s320/401857_3457289027767_245855379_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Callum crushing Sugar Cane Country (E4 6a)<br />
(c) Gwen Lancashire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Whx7vv20eQ0/T9js8rOZaKI/AAAAAAAAAL8/xGTH5lH3eVg/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Whx7vv20eQ0/T9js8rOZaKI/AAAAAAAAAL8/xGTH5lH3eVg/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+021.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gwen and Al roasting on our first route on Pabbay;<br />
The 4 star classic Prophecy of Drowning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hRIhp7yezd4/T9jtExpzUEI/AAAAAAAAAMU/6_XlvWf_5vQ/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hRIhp7yezd4/T9jtExpzUEI/AAAAAAAAAMU/6_XlvWf_5vQ/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+060.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gwen cruising Corncrakes for Breakfast (E2 5c)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DhTYmoVrZEI/T9jtSZPIUhI/AAAAAAAAANM/uy-EqP-0veU/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DhTYmoVrZEI/T9jtSZPIUhI/AAAAAAAAANM/uy-EqP-0veU/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+102.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben on the epic ab-in to Spit in Paradise (E4 6a)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JJmHXeJHYkw/T9jtXhkDYKI/AAAAAAAAANc/6bSmPU1NH4o/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JJmHXeJHYkw/T9jtXhkDYKI/AAAAAAAAANc/6bSmPU1NH4o/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+129.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me bridging wide on pitch 2 of Spit in Paradise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z4Tu8Mf0uZ4/T9jtaTAGQjI/AAAAAAAAANk/uPZhQ4MjCv0/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z4Tu8Mf0uZ4/T9jtaTAGQjI/AAAAAAAAANk/uPZhQ4MjCv0/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+141.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fingers starting up the wild last pitch of <br />
Spit in Paradise whilst Ben and I enjoy the situation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bnuD7j3LDvE/T9jtciAxvJI/AAAAAAAAANs/va_OHoG57XQ/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bnuD7j3LDvE/T9jtciAxvJI/AAAAAAAAANs/va_OHoG57XQ/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+178.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark Almack crushing The Herbrudean (E5 6a)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mesVFEg76Ig/T9jtfIqOELI/AAAAAAAAAN0/1EGQT80u_tY/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mesVFEg76Ig/T9jtfIqOELI/AAAAAAAAAN0/1EGQT80u_tY/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+230.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dun Mingulay and Yours Truly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UnisHXi6PTI/T9jtnbC54nI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/ocg5byWw1Ng/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UnisHXi6PTI/T9jtnbC54nI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/ocg5byWw1Ng/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+252.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Belay buddies! Voyage of Faith (E3 5c)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b1AL7_TGnmM/T9jtiO27vdI/AAAAAAAAAOA/oEp1TMlQw6w/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b1AL7_TGnmM/T9jtiO27vdI/AAAAAAAAAOA/oEp1TMlQw6w/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+234.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally after having Faith in my convictions, we are back on route!<br />
I begin the traverse over the lip of the Sea Cave!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5snE0LH9Lkg/T9jtk0HcGeI/AAAAAAAAAOI/DySNnmgLCVQ/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5snE0LH9Lkg/T9jtk0HcGeI/AAAAAAAAAOI/DySNnmgLCVQ/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+246.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gwen as chilled as ever pitch 3 Voyage of Faith</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
However, for me at least, Pabbay and Mingulay were so much more than just climbing destinations. Pabbay was a perfect island, we were the only inhabitants and it felt like a million miles from the hassles of normal civilisation. Mingulay felt slightly different, the other team of climbers, team of scientists carrying out research on the bird life of the island and the daily groups of tourists dropped off for day trips made it feel a lot less wild and closer to civilisation. However, the bird-life there was absolutely amazing, with Puffins and Bonxies present, whereas they weren't on Pabbay. The Bonxies were my favourite, massive brown sea-gulls that once you ventured into their territory they would 'Bonx' you. This involves flying right at your face before turning up at the very last minute! I have never experienced birds so comfortable with human presence, they were totally chilled and I got to see many birds very close-up. Bonxies (obviously) but I also had some close encounters with Razorbills, who despite looking threatening, are actually wimps, I climbed right past one on The Arch Deacon (A 4-star HVS) and it didn't do owt. Fulmars aren't wimps however, and if you get too close they'll puke on you, luckily I never got hit, but it was a constant fear...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4iC6lt8ggE/T9jtr0lA9oI/AAAAAAAAAOg/Fz3PltBqRA8/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4iC6lt8ggE/T9jtr0lA9oI/AAAAAAAAAOg/Fz3PltBqRA8/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+262.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fingers getting Bonxed!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Overall, Pabbay was the better island (I think most of us agreed on this), but both islands are worth a visit. Our 7 - 3 days split between Pabbay and Mingulay was perfect, we spent the majority of our time, on our own island of adventure, but still experienced the best of Mingulay too. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bBzPcIoZA88/T9jtG0ImaBI/AAAAAAAAAMc/rvidE4o5kGk/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bBzPcIoZA88/T9jtG0ImaBI/AAAAAAAAAMc/rvidE4o5kGk/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+087.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mingulay from Pabbay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iyi6faLL5d0/T9jtJkJMAMI/AAAAAAAAAMk/3qsQgK9AdWU/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iyi6faLL5d0/T9jtJkJMAMI/AAAAAAAAAMk/3qsQgK9AdWU/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+088.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Great Arch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OWSKFoSabhk/T9jtLVsbkFI/AAAAAAAAAMs/g0rzoTv9VqE/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OWSKFoSabhk/T9jtLVsbkFI/AAAAAAAAAMs/g0rzoTv9VqE/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late evening Sun on Pabbay </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rI2q4ftLjKc/T9jtNWiHHsI/AAAAAAAAAM0/h9ClR-Md06o/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rI2q4ftLjKc/T9jtNWiHHsI/AAAAAAAAAM0/h9ClR-Md06o/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+090.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice photo on Pabbay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Plu0kNuqY5k/T9jtOvHOWhI/AAAAAAAAAM8/vC8lKt8UvfU/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Plu0kNuqY5k/T9jtOvHOWhI/AAAAAAAAAM8/vC8lKt8UvfU/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+092.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pabbay Sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tn6OVKPe9-s/T9jtQbJGntI/AAAAAAAAANE/QfyXolB_byk/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tn6OVKPe9-s/T9jtQbJGntI/AAAAAAAAANE/QfyXolB_byk/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+093.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking North towards the beach on Pabbay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_y0JeBkqXa0/T9oBIQvAupI/AAAAAAAAAPA/cQbh4IW0zwI/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_y0JeBkqXa0/T9oBIQvAupI/AAAAAAAAAPA/cQbh4IW0zwI/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+267.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pabbay from Mingulay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gO9CV9N_XTU/T9jtprs9zWI/AAAAAAAAAOY/WeY2nC818DM/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gO9CV9N_XTU/T9jtprs9zWI/AAAAAAAAAOY/WeY2nC818DM/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+255.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mingulay's Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was a sad day when Donald came to pick us up, but it had started raining so it wasn't too bad! At the last minute Scooby made a dash for island freedom, and Al nearly forgot her!</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
What a great trip, thanks to Fingers for organising the boat and getting a brilliant group of people together, and thanks to all those great people for coming along and making it such a good trip. I'll remember it for a long time with a big old smile on my face.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KB5_3wjPalY/T9js-y-DLdI/AAAAAAAAAME/pXWBKljUc2k/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KB5_3wjPalY/T9js-y-DLdI/AAAAAAAAAME/pXWBKljUc2k/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+044.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fingers, the beautiful man!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rC9ZrPB5jNA/T9jtVLZuv9I/AAAAAAAAANU/KTNUmhznxMM/s1600/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rC9ZrPB5jNA/T9jtVLZuv9I/AAAAAAAAANU/KTNUmhznxMM/s320/Pabbay+and+Mingulay+2012+117.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The people I went with were real MEN. No messing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2GoSm3V9BQ/T9n7UFybNMI/AAAAAAAAAOs/eu7DkubzD7I/s1600/560218_10150878990627087_1513116637_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2GoSm3V9BQ/T9n7UFybNMI/AAAAAAAAAOs/eu7DkubzD7I/s320/560218_10150878990627087_1513116637_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team photo on the ruined house, Pabbay. (c) Will Nicholls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
If you are a climber, or even someone in search of cool, quiet, beautiful places, Scotland is the place for you! As long as the weather is good it is a really amazing place to go. Pabbay and Mingulay potentially being two of the most amazing places.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Top Tips for potential Pabbay and Mingulay visitors:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Take lots of TASTY food. More than you think you'll need. Big days equal big appetites. Me and Al didn't really bring enough food, our evening meals were good and big, but never big enough to save for lunch and a third of a Soreen and a chocolate bar aren't enough for during the day. Niether is one bag of porridge oats. Schoolboy error. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Get fit. In every sense of the word. You want to be climbing fit for these islands as the style is steep, juggy and sustained. You want to feel fine at having to use your arms everyday for the whole trip, there are no slabs here. If you aren't into walking/running, get into it. Due to a lack of time I haven't been running or fell-running for a long time and the big, hard walk-ins on the islands leave you feeling pretty tired before you even grab your first jug. Mingulay's walk-ins are bigger but on the most part have better paths making them easier than the grass/rock yomps found on Pabbay.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Don't drop your big blue camalot into the sea or plug your little blue metolius cam into a crack and expect Ballsford to get it out. He's a punter. It really sucks losing £100 worth of kit on a trip.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Take and use sunscreen. Just 'cos you are in Scotland doesn't mean you won't get savagely burnt when it is hot. It does get hot in Scotland sometimes, honest. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Take a camera and a spare battery. You'll want to remember every second of it.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Photocopy the guide so you can take the topo and description down without having to rely on your camera's battery. The guide is too big to take down, a piece of paper is perfect, as the leader can carry it no bother. Gwen and Mark did this which was perfect, I considered it but was too lazy to do so.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Enjoy it, hunt out the 4-star classics and you won't go far wrong.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-55186815326721867662012-05-18T09:09:00.000-07:002012-05-18T09:09:05.724-07:00Return to Gogarth...<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The day started the night before for me, really. Mason had expressed his desire to do The Cad, meaning that Blue Peter was on the cards for me. All night I tried to sleep but could just feel my heart thumping in my chest as I imagined huge, gear-ripping lobs smashing me into the rocks below, I eventually got to sleep at about 4:30am and was awake by 7:30am. A half-eaten breakfast before packing and we were off on our way to the Holy Island and the adventure playground that is Gogarth. Luckily, we would first be swapping partners with some guy Al knew from Hull, meeting in Morrisons, I had a free round 2 with breakfast, and wolfed down a bacon buttie, thanks Martin. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
My partner for the morning was a vet called Andy, who weirdly had a son my age at Aber Uni. He said he was a bit rusty so wasn't keen for anything above 5b, as I had The Sind (E3 5c) in mind. Instead, we opted for The Savage, which gets given E2 5b, I was on rope-gun duty, so racked up and abbed in. The first pitch was ungraded, though the second got 5a it was tricky and not made easier by my partner's tight grip on the rope below me! After a bit of dustiness, I emerged into the light and bought Andy up. After a much less faff-free changeover than I envisaged, I stepped up into the 3-D funkiness that is Yellow Walls climbing. Expecting some sustained or bold 5b sequences I was pleasantly surprised to find a couple of fairly well protected 5b moves into an enjoyable finish. As we had gone quick, I imagined we would have been quicker than Al and Martin, so to enable Andy some leading mileage, we headed over to the busiest crag at the Big G, Castell Helen. We abbed in and Andy set off up pitch 1 of Rap, a nice, juggy, VS 4c. Secretly, I hoped for Andy to take a while so Al would go and do something else with Martin and I would escape Blue Peter. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
No such luck, as I got to the belay, Al popped his head over the top and said he was keen to go to North Stack Wall. Suddenly, the dormant butterflies in my stomach took some cocaine or something and went absolutely mental. I carried on up to the top of the crag and Al asked what I was keen for...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
"Errrr whatever you are mate, I'm easy", I replied.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
"So North Stack Wall then?" Al said, a mischievous glint in his eye as he revelled in his desire to climb The Cad, E6 6a.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
"Err yeah, ok, I'm totally shitting it, but go on then, you gotta be in it to win it, eh?" Said I, my heart thumping in my throat. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So we headed over to North Stack, sorted the rack and walked in. On arriving, the wall was out of the sun and the tide was too far in for Al to do The Cad first, so it was down to me to kick the crush off. We went over to the top of the huge Parliament House Cave to scope it out with the guide and I tried to justify it as looking slabby, although this didn't work so well I did spot a small ledge at 3/4 height. Something to aim for then.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Racked up, I soon found myself at the bottom staring up at the dark, looming, undercut 40m wall. The start blasted straight up through an overhang to a peg. I got a couple of good wires in below but was fair pumped once I clipped the peg. Trying to compose and sort a sequence by the peg, the pump increased before I committed to a brilliant technical traverse on small edges and side-pulls, all the while the peg got further and further away. Now the real boldness kicked in, I fiddled in some uninspiring gear and began trying to shake the lactic from my forearms. More tricky moves followed until a slight easing, I continued to fiddle in gear that you most likely wouldn't hang your jacket on. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Before I knew it, the ledge was looming above me, reaching up it wasn't as positive as expected but I surprised myself by just open-handing it, getting my feet up and crossing into a jug. As has happened before, the quality of the move and my feeling of executing it well despite my anxiety and fear kicked me into in enjoyment mode, and I whooped at the top of my voice, to signify my joy at being 30m up a vertical wall with little in the way of bomber gear to stop a fall...</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I also sort of thought it would be all over by now, and that I'd get some bomber gear in. I managed to get some semi-good gear but not quite as good as expected, though now I found that all the good foot holds were in the wrong place! Some more tricky moves ensued, by-passing possible gear placements until it eased off a bit. Right at the end of the flake-crack I placed an absolutely bomber Rock 3 and knew it was in the bag! Proclaiming it's solid nature to the world, I clipped in and eye-balled the end of the route; the angle kicked back again, but I could see a line of brilliant jugs leading up the prow to the top, I set off, placing a cam (just in case) and romped up to the top, savouring the moment before pulling over and screaming at the top of my voice! After setting up a slightly dodgy belay I bought Al up.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm6z_ssLJBM/T7Oo2YM8ehI/AAAAAAAAAK8/82xhzT_ibOc/s1600/558546_10150687045692168_37491247167_7971245_1171305822_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm6z_ssLJBM/T7Oo2YM8ehI/AAAAAAAAAK8/82xhzT_ibOc/s320/558546_10150687045692168_37491247167_7971245_1171305822_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hansjorg Auer on the final juggy romp of Blue Peter, E4 5c.<br />
(c) Hot Aches Productions, (cheekily nicked this off their facebook!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Al got to the top, still had cold hands, and had stubbed his toe low down, I could imagine how cold he had got out of the sun and in the wind as I was cooling down fast and I was in the sun and had been physically active for the last 45mins or so. In addition to this, the tide was still not far enough out for Al to do The Cad, and by the time it was we would be cold and would only have time for the one route. Graciously, Al said he wouldn't make me second the Cad as he thought it would be an onsightable E6 for me in the future (gulp!) He racked up for 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea, but we stumbled across a bird ban sign. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For a complete change, Al was at a loss as to what to do, I said I'd belay him on whatever, but lacking in inspiration, we headed home. I was sort of relieved as I felt pretty beat up from climbing Blue Peter in total control, with some real brutal bicep, forearm and calf ache. I have been buzzing ever since, I know I say this every time, but Blue Peter must be my hardest route to date, in which I had to draw upon all the skills I have developed throughout my climbing career: Boldness, confidence, pacing, efficient placement of gear and fitness/ability to deal with steep and sustained climbing. I am now mega psyched to gain the ability to climb the other test-piece routes on this wall, and am supremely inspired by The Cad most of all at the moment I think, so I best get better, fitter and bolder!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7C6yqpxVd3o/T7Jmy0lrczI/AAAAAAAAAKw/GFsNXPjCIyI/s1600/The+Cad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7C6yqpxVd3o/T7Jmy0lrczI/AAAAAAAAAKw/GFsNXPjCIyI/s320/The+Cad.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cad... One of the most inspirational E6 testpieces in the UK?<br />
(c) Mike Miller</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In case you haven't already guessed I'm pretty chuffed with myself though am fully expecting to get spanked on an E1 next time I go climbing... Having got away with climbing a bold, solid E4 the climbing Gods will want repayment I imagine...<br />
<br />
I also managed a quick evening's bouldering in the Ogwen valley, the highlight being Red Sky Wall which gets V5 now but I think it is closer to it's old V4 grade, I surprised myself by managing it first go. Here's a picture of Livingstone on it.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f2V2vVN8CFE/T7ZwmPO5nsI/AAAAAAAAALQ/fU-joYhoXQs/s1600/019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f2V2vVN8CFE/T7ZwmPO5nsI/AAAAAAAAALQ/fU-joYhoXQs/s320/019.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Sky Wall V4/5, Clogwyn y Tarw.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I have now finished university, having done my last exam (potentially ever!!!), I have had my first driving lesson and am soon to be heading to Pabbay and Mingulay, and I have a potential job for the winter... in short life is good and I feel well blessed by the Gods. Hope wherever you are, whatever you are doing, life is going your way too...</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-85804047196197964922012-05-16T06:55:00.000-07:002012-07-03T15:55:40.742-07:00Variety is the spice of life...<div style="text-align: justify;">
Due to the intense amount of university work I have had of late, I have neglected from posting. Since I tried <i>What a Difference a Day Makes, </i>I've been getting out every now and then and there has been some considerable variety to my activities, which is always good! I'll try and keep waffle low on this post, and instead illustrate what I have been up to using pictures (not always mine) with a bit of chat on each photo. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Iron Crag, Thirlmere, The Lake District.</b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
The day dawned bright and sunny, after Bubbles and I had sorted some stuff for the weekend's work we boshed off to Thirlmere, and on up to Iron Crag after a quick drink and weasel through a tube.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji7E-TobtEY/T6ujskEFUNI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/yQXmK-TsVJY/s1600/DSCN1204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji7E-TobtEY/T6ujskEFUNI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/yQXmK-TsVJY/s320/DSCN1204.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles stuck in a tube!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I kicked the day off with Solidarity, E1 5b, a route with a stiff, dusty section low down followed by bold, airy, but positive climbing up a corner and rib higher up. Very nice!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CrkaebvGJtc/T7F4ZCr0BXI/AAAAAAAAAIA/iknNTu-3-Z8/s1600/DSCN1213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CrkaebvGJtc/T7F4ZCr0BXI/AAAAAAAAAIA/iknNTu-3-Z8/s320/DSCN1213.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solidarity, E1 5b (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Bubbles then strapped his cock on and went for a route high on his tick list; Hiddenite, E2 5c. After some upping and downing, fiddling kit in he showed excellent form by blasting to the top stopping only to slot a wire in. Great effort Booblar!!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNmDxdkNtwk/T7F4evUsSDI/AAAAAAAAAII/haciA3IWcKA/s1600/DSCN1240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNmDxdkNtwk/T7F4evUsSDI/AAAAAAAAAII/haciA3IWcKA/s320/DSCN1240.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seconding Hiddenite, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Next up it was my lead once again. I had, had my eye on one of the E4's of the crag but was secretly wishing for something a bit less taxing that I would have a higher chance of success on; something in the order of E3. No such luck, I set off up a new E4 6a; Amaballite, but after struggling up the overhanging starting groove, I found my self having to commit to a ledge above two reasonable runners, though in my wimpish state I wasn't sure how much I trusted them considering I couldn't see a runner coming for a looong way. After much pussy-footing around I backed off. SOFT. On abbing down Bubbles said he had found a runner a few moves off the ledge and declared my runners good enough. Get on it, it looks ace.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mhHWAZIIW_4/T7F4kiiJUxI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/8eAOndc4hiY/s1600/DSCN1248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mhHWAZIIW_4/T7F4kiiJUxI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/8eAOndc4hiY/s320/DSCN1248.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strenuous starting groove of Amaballite, E4 6a. (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Great Scotch Road-Trip; Skye, Torridon, Cairngorms</b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
After working for the weekend, we risked the dodgy forecast and blasted up North of the border, took a lovely, scenic detour through Glasgow to pick up the beautiful, Jimmy 'Fingers' Marjot. We carried on up North, stopping to buy food in Fort Bill and eventually arrived at Glenbrittle, Skye at 8pm in pouring rain. Apparently it was due to stop at 4:00am, so we set our alarms for 4:30am and tried to get to sleep.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e4njs85K9Wg/T7F4oybZNYI/AAAAAAAAAIY/GP1yOma89YU/s1600/DSCN1253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e4njs85K9Wg/T7F4oybZNYI/AAAAAAAAAIY/GP1yOma89YU/s320/DSCN1253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road Trippin' (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Upon waking up, we found it was still raining, albeit gently at 4:30, and heavier again at 6:30. Eventually we awoke to sunlight at 8:30am to find our objective; the Cuillin Ridge coated in snow. It was already too late to do it, but it looked as though we might not do it on this trip either.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PIw49VKWXkw/T7GIrhA1voI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/TiVjZtAfUrE/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PIw49VKWXkw/T7GIrhA1voI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/TiVjZtAfUrE/s320/008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cuillin Ridge, Skye, coated in fresh snow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Instead we headed to Kilt Rock and Bubbles lead his first Extreme Rock route; Grey Panther, E1 5b. It's a real ace route, but right in the wind so we bailed to the cafe and planned the next day.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T5U8sSAndsM/T7GQWdYCWUI/AAAAAAAAAKA/7bqLpSj8i-c/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T5U8sSAndsM/T7GQWdYCWUI/AAAAAAAAAKA/7bqLpSj8i-c/s320/025.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles crushing Grey Panther, E1 5b.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8gZ1-kqTIzs/T7F4sReECFI/AAAAAAAAAIg/QqJ8KkOWBUY/s1600/DSCN1305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8gZ1-kqTIzs/T7F4sReECFI/AAAAAAAAAIg/QqJ8KkOWBUY/s320/DSCN1305.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first driving lesson didn't go too well... (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The snow was not forecast to melt so we headed over to Diabaig, Torridon. This is one of THE most beautiful places I have ever been fortunate enough to visit. We arrived at last light, pitched our tent and had dinner washed down by a fine ale each and fell asleep once more. The morning wasn't as bright as yesterday but we soldiered on.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9XRKDxZaaDo/T7GQsy3b7II/AAAAAAAAAKI/VJ__ds_bgiE/s1600/036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9XRKDxZaaDo/T7GQsy3b7II/AAAAAAAAAKI/VJ__ds_bgiE/s320/036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torridon... B-E-A-Utiful.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
First up I led the Pillar; E2 5b which at 45m with numb hands and feet and small, spaced gear was fun! A brilliant route!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-URz6tcjF3G8/T7F4z6KjczI/AAAAAAAAAIo/MSYC_dnItTY/s1600/DSCN1323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-URz6tcjF3G8/T7F4z6KjczI/AAAAAAAAAIo/MSYC_dnItTY/s320/DSCN1323.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On The Pillar, E2 5b. (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Next up Jimmy cruised Route Two; HVS 5a, and after trying Northumberland Wall, E2 5c, Bubbles did Route Three; E1 5b with a top pitch very reminiscent of St Victus' Dance in Squamish.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxyqVHl-LVE/T7F44WiWa4I/AAAAAAAAAIw/2BEVLTtm7Cg/s1600/DSCN1343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxyqVHl-LVE/T7F44WiWa4I/AAAAAAAAAIw/2BEVLTtm7Cg/s320/DSCN1343.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fingers on Route Two, HVS 5a (c)Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XogtbR3LySM/T7F47FXmA7I/AAAAAAAAAI4/AwAd2tTFaWA/s1600/DSCN1385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XogtbR3LySM/T7F47FXmA7I/AAAAAAAAAI4/AwAd2tTFaWA/s320/DSCN1385.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diabaig. (c)Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We then headed over to Aviemore in the hope of getting a quick route in at Creag Dubh before picking up some skis in Edinburgh for Bubbles' Alaska expedition. However, we had forgotten the larger amount of snow-fall on the East coast and how much colder this meant it was. After a cold night's shivering we drove straight to Glasgow to drop Fingers off before heading to Edinburgh, where the nice man at Anatom gave me four free pairs of Teko socks and some insoles for my boots! (I fervently suggest you get some Teko socks, they are great and for me, women's size medium are the best fitting sock I have ever had!)</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Euro-sport in the English Riviera, Empire of the Sun f7b</b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
After a very successful hitch from the Lakes to Exeter in just two lifts, with ne'er more than 5mins spent at the side of the road, I knew I had to crack on with the dissertation. However, after a few days of remembering how much of an uphill struggle it felt like, I gave an old climbing friend, Jerome, a text to see if he fancied a catch up.<br />
<br />
Luckily he did, and I surprised him by requesting we go to the very un-traditionally angled Empire wall. I finally felt like I was ready for 7b and I knew Empire of the Sun was a solid tick at the grade and also very European in style; pumpy, with good holds all the way, and therefore good fitness training for my trad goals of the year.<br />
<br />
After a quick traverse along the bottom of the wall to warm-up, Jerome whizzed up and put the draws in for me, deciding that going all out and trying to flash this would be unwise given the short day, I dogged it bolt to bolt getting the sequence sorted for a clean ascent. Jerome then put the clips in Avenged (F7c+), now the weather reared its ugly head in the form of a massive hail-storm! The top of the route began to get wet but after sitting it out for a bit it seemed to dry up enough for me to consider going for a redpoint attempt. I surprised myself by getting past the crux, but forgot a foot placement on the next hard throw and dropped it! After a quick rest, I pulled back on and got to the last hard move, off of a poor pocket only to slip off! The water had run-down into the back of it! Gutted, that I could have done the route in two halves, I did the move and carried on to the chains.<br />
<br />
After Jerome cruised a lap on Avenged, the weather came in again!!!! Jerome offered to go up and dry the pocket out for me, but even after doing that, the weather knew and rained again! The water was now running in streaks down the top of the route, so a redpoint was almost out of the question. However, I had another go for some fitness training and despite messing up the crux, I got a move higher before running out of juice! I carried on to the top with a rest or two and cleaned the route as Jerome had work soon.<br />
<br />
What a route! One of the best sport routes I have been on in the UK without doubt, and one I am keen to get back on when I'm back home!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Trem-fest, Bwlch y Moch</b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
For a quick break from dissertation work, and due to the promise of a good prize draw, Bubbles, Ollie Burrows, Gwen and I headed to Tremadog for the clean-up festival. We arrived early and helped put the tent up before me and Bubbles opted to clean Grotto, an esoteric VS on the Christmas Curry Buttress. Donning water-proofs, we expected light drizzle, but on arriving at the first belay, the rain was coming in thick and fast. Abandoning the idea of climbing Grotto, Bubbles put in a commendable effort climbing the original Christmas Curry top pitch in a total waterfall. I seconded and cleaned as I went, and then lowered Bubbles into Grotto so he could clean it as he went down. Luckily, the sun had come out by now, and the crag was drying quickly. We walked down having carried out our duties and tried to decide what to do that would be dry and that Bubbles hadn't done already. We managed to postpone the raffle and after finding the Neb still under heavy cleaning activity, we remembered that neither of us had done the Daddy Cool/The Sting combination on Merlin Buttress. I set off up the main Daddy Cool (E2 5c) pitch and really enjoyed the positive, burly start which then gave way to less secure, technical in balance climbing up top.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x7JRZXo5hbE/T7F5E-qH_0I/AAAAAAAAAJI/e4TD3FLpk9k/s1600/DSCN1420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x7JRZXo5hbE/T7F5E-qH_0I/AAAAAAAAAJI/e4TD3FLpk9k/s320/DSCN1420.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling the overlap on Daddycool, E2 5c. (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Bubbles joined me and scooted across the 5a pitch to the bottom of his pitch, the Sting (E2 5c). I struggled on this pitch for some unknown reason, height maybe? But was soon chilling at the belay ready to race up Ths Sting after Tom as the call for "Raffle in 45 minutes" had been given! Bubbles up and downed a bit before slipping off, so I instructed him to aid out and promptly raced up after him, clean but only just. It is a very well protected pitch but very tough 5c in my opinion.<br />
<br />
We raced over to the beer house, grabbed a pint each and started rubbing our lucky charms, it worked out for me as I got a Petzl Bug rucksack (flogged for £30) and a Beanie. We then got Fish and Chips from Porthmadog and got pissed!<br />
<br />
Awaking to rain, I cashed in my agreement with Burrows; I bought him dinner the night before and was treated to a lovely breakfast! We left and chilled in Bangor for a bit before deciding a quick boulder at Braichmelyn was in order. Bubbles and Ollie flashed The V1 arete and the V2 ramp, Mike turned up and crushed Central Wall V5 after a surprising amount goes considering he has flashed V7 - it's not easy!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5PriyI2h5Ms/T7F5KOrgKYI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/odmtSo3fweQ/s1600/DSCN1441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5PriyI2h5Ms/T7F5KOrgKYI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/odmtSo3fweQ/s320/DSCN1441.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boulder scenes (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>A Righteous Day at the Promised Land, Gogarth </b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
With my dissertation handed in, Bubbles asked if I wanted to go climbing, to which I unsurprisingly answered, yes! We originally planned to head to Rhoscolyn, but with the recent rain we thought Fallen Block Zawn may be wet so despite Bubbles' epic the previous day on The Moon, we headed to Gogarth.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wiV2rNYGNmI/T7GTDrFEFoI/AAAAAAAAAKY/YvaYexQokEg/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wiV2rNYGNmI/T7GTDrFEFoI/AAAAAAAAAKY/YvaYexQokEg/s320/012.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The offending item.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
On arrival, we were soon joined by Mason and Jon Ratcliffe who were heading for Rat Race, an E3 I have wanted to do for a while. Upon arriving at the racking up spot I was still unsure what I was keen for, then remembered I hadn't done Aardvark, E2 6a. I racked up and we set off down the approach path.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wvl7qXnsx5k/T7F5OVqg8GI/AAAAAAAAAJY/EYCsg1kT_nM/s1600/DSCN1702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wvl7qXnsx5k/T7F5OVqg8GI/AAAAAAAAAJY/EYCsg1kT_nM/s320/DSCN1702.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aardvark, E2 6a. (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I found the bottom of Aardvark harder and bolder than expected, with in my opinion, a 5c sequence around 2 poor RPs well above the last kit. I got a bit freaked out as I knew the top was supposed to be a lot harder than the bottom. However, I carried on and managed to get a load of good runners before sprinting the top. I'd say there wasn't any 6a on it, so it felt more E3 5c to me, though maybe if you are tall with fat fingers it feels different.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ug2ah7bnrfg/T7F5Sru6YWI/AAAAAAAAAJg/dOS_v40Hc6E/s1600/DSCN1714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ug2ah7bnrfg/T7F5Sru6YWI/AAAAAAAAAJg/dOS_v40Hc6E/s320/DSCN1714.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mad, Bad, and Dangerous to know - Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Bubbles put in a good effort, seconding it clean, then had a crack at Fail Safe, E2 5b. But wasn't feeling it so suggested Cordon Bleu, HVS 5b. I agreed, and got the gear out for him. We headed over and started off the sight-seeing trip that it is. Along the way, we bumped into Al and Jon and Rat Race, and Bubbles began to complain at how crap our route was, though he perked up once he had climbed the tricky crux. Although the climbing isn't hard for the most part, I was simply enjoying being out in the sunshine and cruising along halfway up the Main Cliff.<br />
<br />
We topped out and returned to the gearing up area along with Al and Jon. After sitting around, eating sandwiches and chatting, it was time for some more routes. Al and Jon headed for Run Fast, Run Free (E5 6a), whilst I headed for Snakebite Wall, a tough E4 6a at Holyhead Mountain. Snakebite Wall is a really great route, with good hard sustained climbing up a vertical wall into the top of Penny (E4 6a). I felt like I climbed well and kept going despite being savagely pumped, but I made the mistake of placing too much gear in the Penny crack, and fell just a few moves away from the end of the hard climbing - Gutted!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UVe_6j0bTJ0/T7F5WzVCLpI/AAAAAAAAAJo/FBj-IU3ig0Y/s1600/DSCN1718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UVe_6j0bTJ0/T7F5WzVCLpI/AAAAAAAAAJo/FBj-IU3ig0Y/s320/DSCN1718.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snakebitten (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Bubbes then made a clean ascent of the hard King Bee Crack, HVS 5a (sandbag), a route he had dogged late last year. I seconded it, though found it very tricky due to high fatigue levels, it isn't very positive and is very burly! After abbing to get my gear back, we packed up and bumped into Jon and Al walking back, having done Run Fast, Run Free, and were greeted by a brilliant sunset as we got back to the cars! A great day, which was a great reward for all my slaving over my dissertation.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7AdeNXkyHB0/T7GcxyAEk8I/AAAAAAAAAKk/5BJ6wMLcZtk/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7AdeNXkyHB0/T7GcxyAEk8I/AAAAAAAAAKk/5BJ6wMLcZtk/s320/001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good end to a righteous day at the Big G</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b>An Afternoon of Faffing, Fiendish Beamish f7a+/b</b><br />
<b><br /></b><br />
On the Sunday, I had told Al that I'd be keen for a half day, enabling me to getsome climbing and revison done. Aiming to meet him about 2, he soon texted back asking to go early but be back early, unfortunately his idea of early was about 3 hours later than mine, and after a small textual argument, we ended up going out at 12. Choosing the Orme, we sped off only to be stuck in bank holiday parade traffic for a good hour or so. After extrapolating ourselves we sped over to the Lighthouse Crags to try Red Meat, a new 7b addition to the Orme. However, upon abbing down I found the route wet and covered in birds, we bailed and by this time had lost a good 3 hours!!<br />
<b><br /></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zh5HLIlVY6E/T7GRfazHXjI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/sQtPFpg73fc/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zh5HLIlVY6E/T7GRfazHXjI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/sQtPFpg73fc/s320/008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice Board Crag,<br />
Fiendish Beamish goes up the centre of the crag from the 'V' at the base.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Luckily, plan B was a simple one, go to Notice Board Crag. We warmed up on Leaning Jowler, a really great, steep F6b, and Al put the clips in Fiendish Beamish F7a+/b as he lowered off. After I stripped Leaning Jowler, Al set off up Fiendish, but stalled above the 4th bolt, after upping and downing a few times, he downclimbed to the deck and offered me the rope ends!! Nervously, I tied on and blasted upwards, stopping to take in beta from Al on the moves. Soon I found myself at Al's highpoint, a quick rearrangement of my right hand in the pocket to facilitate a match, and a quick slap out right found me totally committed, eye-balling the 5th clip. I pulled up an armful of slack but was so pumped I fumbled the clip and grabbed the draw, as I nearly took a massive whipper! Clipping in, I rested and then climbed to the top, trying a different sequence on the way down and beta-ing Al up. He duly cruised it this go, and it was soon my turn... I again felt apprehensive as the pump from the last go was still present in my forearms, but I strapped it on and got to it. Once into the crux, I moved quickly and aggressively, slapping my way between the holds, and before I knew it, I had done the crux and after a tricky couple of last moves was clipping the chains, chuffed at my hardest redpoint to date!<br />
<b><br /></b></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-87450793208708597892012-04-08T03:47:00.000-07:002012-04-08T03:47:50.117-07:00What a Difference a Day Makes...<div style="text-align: justify;"><b>A day can make all the difference, in many ways...</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I aged a whole year in just 24 hours, turning 22 when I had been only 21 the day before! All very unfair, but I did get some chocolate, coca-cola, ribena, climbing gear and money! Spent the day chilling with Jess, then went to a beach BBQ with a load of people for a joint birthday doo with Burdy, who turns 23 (Ha!) on the 1st.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>What a difference a day makes, the paranoia about time passing too quickly grew...</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Feeling guilty about neglecting my dissertation, I tucked my vagina in and boshed out 1000 words on Saturday. <b>What a difference a day makes, the guilt melted away...</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The next day, with minus an hour's sleep, I was picked up by Ollie and owing to the amazing weather, sped off to the Llanberis Pass, to a theme-tune of Bubble's choosing (Frank Sinatra - since when was Sinatra psyche music?!?). A quick stop to pick up Mark Reeves, and we were safely parked in the CC car park (Oooooh! Posh!), it seemed like it might be a mafter, but Ollie was keen for SS Special on the Grochan, and I was unsure of whether it would be too cold on the 'dark-side' of the Pass. Ollie boshed SS Special, and I got a free return ticket to it. I lead it in 1st year and thoroughly enjoyed it then, and this time, good effort younger me... it's tricky! By the time I reached the belay it was mafting (hot/boiling/roasting for those not with me lingo innit), so we hot-footed it over to Hidden Wall, behind Gravestones. I had a few routes in mind on this slice of the Pass, Rimsky Korsakov (E4/5 6a) and What A Difference A Day Makes (E4 6a) being right up there on things to have a bash at.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f6QyN3mE4Ck/T4FqXUIeUkI/AAAAAAAAAFI/PJtMBli9hmw/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f6QyN3mE4Ck/T4FqXUIeUkI/AAAAAAAAAFI/PJtMBli9hmw/s320/001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cor blimey! Roasting hot weather in the Pass, <br />
Clogwyn y Grochan the obvious crag on the sunny side.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">I was told it may be wet so left Ollie chilling whilst I sussed out whether either was dry, and if I wanted to get on either one of them. Turning the corner, I didn't know what I wanted to see; a lot of wetness rendering the routes un-climbable but a wasted journey to the dark-side, or bone-dry rock and then I'd have no excuse but to go for it? I found Rimsky totally dry (get on up there if you are capable; it looks mega) but What a Difference had some wetness at the base. Looking closely at them both, Rimsky looked to have small gear which I wasn't sure would be good for forearms as tender as mine; I might get too pumped to put good kit in. What a Difference had bigger cracks in and it turned out the wetness wasn't affecting the climbing too much at the start. Walking back down to Ollie I wasn't sure whether to take the risk... luckily I manned up and got psyched - if you don't try, you'll never know!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">So we boshed back up and I got psyched for a bit of lactic poisoning on What a Difference... The start went well, I managed it without the wet bits and got some gear in and was feeling good, tempted out left by an undercut jug rail I found myself in a nice niche but off route...bollocks. After a lot of faffing and swapping cams over to get my gear back on-line, I made a tenuous series of moves rightwards and 'powered' in the loosest sense of the word up the wall into the real meat of the route. Not feeling 100% happy with the gear below my feet I put a good small wire in, but still the paranoia flows and I am pumped, VERY pumped. Still I came here for a fight so that's what I'm gonna give! I am power-screaming and whimpering at the same time - each cancelling the other out into what I have now termed "power-whines". Half of my (small) brain said "HAVE IT!", the other said "This is freaking scary mate, is that gear good enough for you to even sit on it? Better get another bit in and sit on that, be a good boy".</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I took tips from both and put some more gear in but battled on up, another piece of gear to go in but I'm so pumped I'm struggling to open krabs and can't get the wire I want, opt for the next one up which is luckily the right size. "It didn't look this hard from below, looked like jugs all over and that you could bridge out" I think but instead there are a few incuts hidden in a sea of dirty, unhelpful rock. I power-whine up to the next hold but instead of something positive I find nothing good enough for the state of my forearms. I fall, a small one really as my runner is close by. Forearms boxed, I hang around and then try to climb back to my last piece of gear to dog it out, but I'm too pumped in both forearm and brain so lower off, defeated.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I always have to find the lesson in these things and upon abbing down to clean the gear I realise how steep it is; my runners are hanging away from the wall like they would on a sport route, I also find a small, positive hold just above where I was looking for one, but also the route kicks back more above it and I didn't bring a big enough cam for a big crack at the top which will protect me for the final layback.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I have learnt a few things though:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><ul><li style="text-align: justify;">RELAX! Being the first hard trad route I've been on this year (Heading the Shot is sport), not being my style, I was mega tense, probably over-gripping, not finding the best body positions, and not shaking out that I can remember. With a more relaxed style, I would have done better. </li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Give 110%. I think I gave 100% on the route, but could I have squeezed a bit more out? </li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Listen to your instincts on gear size you spot from the ground. I almost knew it was blue camalot sized up there but hate carrying unnecessary weight. </li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Get on it again soon, or something else pumpy soon. You need to get fitter and better you fat bastard.</li>
</ul><div style="text-align: justify;">After cleaning it, Ollie boshed the Stebbing which gets E2 but is closer to HVS. I had also done this in 1st year so it was nice to revisit it in safety. Finally, to really knacker us out we walked <i>back</i> to the Grochan and linked the first 4c pitch of Spectre into Nea (HVS and VS respectively) before heading home. All in all a great day, and I think that once my calves, forearms and shoulders stop aching, I'll be fitter once more.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Right Wall, Bloody Sunday etc all feel a million miles away right now, but I'm staying optimistic, they are all only bits of rock. A bit more familiarity with the "dreaded pump" and it might become a good friend, no reason why not eh?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>What a difference a day makes, I've grown older, made some good inroads into my dissertation and given myself the kick up the arse to knuckle down and try and get fitter, stronger and better to actually achieve my goals for this year.</b></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-32426855147840244592012-03-15T08:32:00.000-07:002012-03-15T08:32:56.785-07:00Airtime.<div style="text-align: justify;">Airtime, the antithesis of climbing, yet without the fall, looming or experienced, it would be a boring 2-dimensional exercise whereby half the fun would be taken away. If you aren't risking falling off then you aren't trying hard enough, but imagine if there was never the risk of falling? Top-roping classic routes in imperfect safety, just working out the moves and being fit and strong, except it wouldn't matter, you would just go for the most obvious sequence and if you couldn't do it, who cares?. Falling is a big part of climbing, and I like it that way. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">As with everyone, I find the thought of falling scary at the beginning of the season, but I enjoy climbing a lot more once I am comfortable with falling, and truth be told, I do quite enjoy falling. Big whippers, whilst scary are FUN!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">A brilliant yet slightly naughty form of fall practice is bridge jumping. On a whim, and after we had exhausted our supplies of stale bread to throw at unsuspecting drunks, Livingbone, Bubbles, Ollie, Harry and I went and found a bridge, set up a suspect hauling system and a dynamic rope to jump on. Despite others' 100% psyche levels, no-one was keen to jump first, so I stepped up to the plate. I was apprehensive tying in, I knew the dynamic set up was fine, but the hauling system was unorthodox to say the least. Climbing over the railings, I was a bit scared but I knew I just had to commit. A split-second of control and it is out of your hands, you are falling, flying through the sky and suddenly, the rope catches and you swing around for a bit, as you are pulled up by your mates. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This time was different, I jumped and fell; as usual, was caught; as usual but looking down, I grabbed the static but it was dangling underneath me, not above!? </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"What the F***!" </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Was my first thought, asking the guys above if it had snapped, they seemed to think it hadn't, though they weren't sure. In the end, they agreed with me so I asked them if they would be so kind as to lower down a new bit of rope? They obliged, and whilst I waited, I realised I had stopped swinging. Usually, whilst bridge jumping you are hauled back up before you stop swinging, but now I was dangling, hoping the hauling system would work and that I wouldn't have to be rescued (embarresing much?) Luckily, it worked and I was soon standing on solid bridge...phheww!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U9q4trvsuLs/T2CgcUW1pvI/AAAAAAAAAE4/nG6JR0MR2c8/s1600/Bridgejump1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U9q4trvsuLs/T2CgcUW1pvI/AAAAAAAAAE4/nG6JR0MR2c8/s320/Bridgejump1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jump psyche... Also putting on a brave face as I'm not sure if my pants are still clean...<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Seeing it safe, the rest of the crew jumped, without mishap, though Ollie and Harry did take a while to man up and jump, though Bubbles put in a commendable effort and went quick, unlike last time when he requested to be 'thrown overboard' as he couldn't bring himself to jump. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kcql9ztBs-M/T2Cg6cHtXHI/AAAAAAAAAFA/OvCmnJEEo2Y/s1600/Snappedstatic1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kcql9ztBs-M/T2Cg6cHtXHI/AAAAAAAAAFA/OvCmnJEEo2Y/s320/Snappedstatic1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember kids; think carefully about eating that last biscuit cos' ropes snap sometimes...<br />
(c) Tom Ripley </td></tr>
</tbody></table>After some amount of sleep, Eugene and I went to Penmaen Head on the A55, to go sport climbing. I wanted to get some early season mileage in, though was feeling ache-y from hauling people up and tired from the late night. First up we boshed a couple of Fr6a's; Helyg Crack and Red Handed, these went without mishap and so I decided to have a go at onsighting a 6c, Top Secret taking my fancy. I felt pretty good and confident, I was getting pumped, but I was working out the moves too. A tricky sequence to a bolt passed, I moved up and could taste success, spotting a good crimp rail, I grabbed it, unfortunately it was sloping, but I matched and tried to press on but fell. DAMN! De-pumping I carried on up to the top, chastising myself for not reading the sequence correctly. Eugene had a go but fell at the second and third bolts, came down and boshed it. After some lunch, I did the same, confidently flowing through moves I had been much more static and slow on before. Getting to the crux, a quick shake and I boshed the right sequence right to the top, Woopa! Next up, Eugene had a go at The Gimp Crimp, 7a after a slip low down, he boshed on to the top but came to a hault at the last bolt, unable to foresee a way to the chains he passed over to me. It looked desperate, so I didn't hold out much hope, but I went up and tried my very best, passing the lower crux, I rested well in the middle, got up and committed to the laybacks and slapped for the finishing jug! As I held it, I realised I'd left the quickdraws on the ground, so fumbled with my belay device and screwgate, getting a bit pumped and gripped, but psyched to have got it first go.<br />
<br />
On Wednesday, I got the call from Mason that he was going for an evening Parisella's Cave hit, and did I want to join him and Laura? Yes I did, despite having had an Indy session the night before I desperately wanted to close my account on Left Wall Traverse (V8/Fr7c+). We got there and after a short warm up in Split Infinity (I always feel like such a punter not being able to warm up in the cave), I boshed Flake start to be sure I knew I could do the end of the full thing. Anyway, there were loads of beasts there trying some hard shit, and Mason added himself to that mix with some really brilliant links on Lou Ferrino, a powerful, steep, V10. Anyway, I had a load of mediocre efforts including one stupid one where I slightly messed up with my feet and let go thinking it not worth it! That last stupid little fail did not sit well with me, and I found myself in a very determined mindset. After a short rest and a banana (Thanks to Al and Laura for that one) I was pandered to by Laura who kindly brushed all the holds and got chalk ready at the halfway rest while I got focussed and booted up. This time up everything fell into place and I just focussed on getting the next hold, then the next etc, any mistake and I just kept going, trying to eak another move out of the attempt. Suddenly I found myself through the crux and starting the last tricky sequence down to the rest. My right foot wasn't quite correctly seated but I pressed on, all of a sudden my left hand popped (I didn't let go) and I found myself trying to grab a handhold whilst lying on the pad. One move away from the rest I had fallen, although it is not totally in the bag at that point, it is a hands-off rest so I could have rested until I felt fresh enough to finish. However, a brilliant triumph for tenacity! After this effort I could barely pull the starting moves so called it a day, but a great bit of training! Thanks to Al, Laura (espesh) and all the cave beasts for being so supportive!<br />
<br />
Here's what I've learnt recently;</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Give everything you have to give, and you will be rewarded with a fulfilling experience. Oh and don't fear the airtime ... just sit back, relax and enjoy the ride...</b></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-55774077567346295672012-03-06T07:07:00.003-08:002012-03-07T16:21:34.972-08:00Buzzin'I was BUZZING! For days after! Last saturday, me and Al headed out to the Slate, with an ambitious day planned; first we would head to Serengheti where he would redpoint The Medium (8a), I would flash Heading the Shot (7a+), then we would head down to the Rainbow slab, I would onsight Poetry Pink (E5) and he Ground-up Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6). Upon arrival we both had a head-sorting solo of the Quarries' classic Seamstress (VS), then Mason abbed and put the draws in his project, and all but the first draws in my target. After a quick toprope each and a lead attempt on The Medium by Al, I was up... Like a substitute being called on to the pitch I felt excited and yet unsure whether I would be able to step up to the plate and put in the required performance.<br />
<br />
"54-46 was my number, ohh yeeaaah"<br />
<br />
I was bricking it, I've heard a lot of 'E5' being bandied around, despite this I set off knowing the first bit from previous ground-up efforts to be scary but easy. First bolt clipped, I began my mantra "I am Johnny Dawes' illegitimate love-child, I will cruise this". I startled myself moving past the first bolt, how could I be so chilled onsighting way above my ability?<br />
<br />
"Right now someone has that number, ohh yeaaahh"<br />
<br />
Up above the second bolt now, I falter. I know how to get into the crux but it's a little tricky. A quick foot swap and I am immersed, all small feet and thin side-pulls. I grab a good crimp at my full reach 'You forgot the number 1 rule of slate; don't overstretch!!'. Paddling my feet up, I match left foot and hand, rocking up into good holds and the next clip, a few strenuous moves and the next bolt is clipped, rushing I almost fall but nope, I'm into the jugs yarding my way up the final run-out, looking out over Moel Eilio, over Bangor and onto Anglesey, I'm BUZZING! I did it, I tried hard and did it!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r6Jf2StGJvo/T1Yfh50h9dI/AAAAAAAAAD4/aEDDjYgkkmU/s1600/HeadingTheShot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r6Jf2StGJvo/T1Yfh50h9dI/AAAAAAAAAD4/aEDDjYgkkmU/s320/HeadingTheShot.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading the Shot: THIN! <br />
(c) Nikki off UKC <br />
(stolen photo as I cleverly forgot my camera)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Before long, Gwen and her friend Anna turn up, and Gwen (total technical crusher) cruises the crux without my flapping, only to fall off the traverse! Nightmare! Anna begins to re-work it (and later sent it, bon effort!), as Mason has some more burns at the, not so moderate, Medium. But no such luck, with each attempt I see his psyche diminish (not something I witness all that often with Al), Ballsford then turns up and we decide to go down to Rainbow Area. With diminishing time, we hit up Taken Over By Department C (7a/+), Al puts on a stylish onsight, and Ballsford puts on a stylish repeat ascent. Which left me to make a frumpy dogged ascent. It went so well up to the last bolt, reachy powerful moves, but I did them, then I failed to find the correct sequence and was well and truly taken over by fatigue. Still, a great route so get on it!<br />
<br />
The next day, everyone was paired up and Al had to work, so I followed Ballsford to Parisella's Cave so that we could both send Left Wall Traverse (V8), neither of us did, but we both made better links and got some shweeet beta for the start! Also was reet good training!<br />
<br />
Having felt smothered by the rain in North Wales, Jess and I headed to Glossop to visit her Dad, their awesome new puppy, Woody and so that I could pull some moves on the fabled Gritstone.<br />
<br />
Thursday dawned bright and clear, so 'Team North Wales' consisting of Dave Morse, Josh Marshall and I headed to Curbar, or 'Sandbag crag' as it shall now be known. Having not climbed on grit much, or for a while I declined the offer of first lead, which was valiantly taken up by Josh. He fought the good fight with Maupassant (HVS 5a) for a while before declaring man-down and sending me up into the jaws of the layback flake!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2wLcSmVX-s/T1YgxhgpM4I/AAAAAAAAAEA/2r74hMVcTfk/s1600/josh+maupassant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2wLcSmVX-s/T1YgxhgpM4I/AAAAAAAAAEA/2r74hMVcTfk/s320/josh+maupassant.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh fighting the good fight on Maupassant.<br />
(c) Dave Morse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Next, Morsey went a bit crazy on Insanity (E2 5c), a horrendously steep, pumpy, thin, awkward layback flake. After two good efforts, the rope ends were once again handed over to me (why me!?!), I fought the fight, but I got a good kicking this time, and was sent packing. A quick Top-rope effort from Josh and we decided to move on. Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a) being the next on the list upon recommendation by Jess' Dad. After some faffing at the bottom, I got stuck into the great movement between twin cracks, before jamming myself into the niche. After a bit of a flail, I got into the jugs and topped out triumphant, glad not to have to tell Jess' Dad the bad news that his daughter was indeed, dating a pansy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R4rpBkv70-c/T1YhkOvnFuI/AAAAAAAAAEI/3V1xvRdfgg8/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R4rpBkv70-c/T1YhkOvnFuI/AAAAAAAAAEI/3V1xvRdfgg8/s320/024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave on Insanity</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Dave then wanted to return to a previous spanking on The Toy (E1 5c), after getting all the gear in he fell off, returned to the ground and sent it, like a true hero! Looking forward to being on the blunt end of the rope for the first time all day, I was alarmed to see him drop the ropes saying, "You'll flash that Dunky!". Without question I tied on, squeaked me boots and set on up the longest 6 metres of my life. Nearing the top crack, I used my rat fingers to simply climb the crack instead of using Dave's sequence, just about managing to haul my sorry ass over the edge and to terra firma! Cheers for the gear and the numbers Dave!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ucEO0N49jmo/T1aGSW4XSBI/AAAAAAAAAEw/2smTEW_jiJA/s1600/033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ucEO0N49jmo/T1aGSW4XSBI/AAAAAAAAAEw/2smTEW_jiJA/s320/033.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave, happy topping out on The Toy, E1 5c</td></tr>
</tbody></table>After lingering in the Gritstone evening, we headed home, with Josh psyched for a quick boulder hit to plantation the next day we chatted about problems we wanted to try, hushed hopes of Not To Be Taken Away for Dave and I, with Josh being keen for the Green Traverse, something I hoped to have a play on.<br />
<br />
Friday turned out to be slightly colder than the day before and we hurriedly got warmed up on a couple of moderate problems, a flakey throw for a flat hold and a lovely little arete with a slopey, horrible top-out. After some spankings on a few other problems, Chris Todd headed over to Zippy's traverse (Font 7b), we all had a go, Chris got close, but no send! Josh headed up to the Green Traverse (Font 7a) to get the beta from Big Ron Fawcett, with the rest of us close behind. I felt that being fairly competant at the grade it should go for me, but no luck for any of us, and so we were sent packing with our tails between our legs once more! So we headed over to the Grand Hotel block, home to Not To Be Taken Away (Font 6c), the start felt a bit greasy, but after a few false starts, Dave was up on the ramp, faltering around the tricky high move he took the fall. I had a few goes but was really struggling with the start. Luckily, after failing on the first moves a few times, I got properly established and clicked into that focussed mind-set, concentrated on my feet and cruised to the top!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zTcCBg4ZJxc/T1YiCdn4tzI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/34TZa-5k4Lc/s1600/NTBTA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zTcCBg4ZJxc/T1YiCdn4tzI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/34TZa-5k4Lc/s320/NTBTA.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not To Be Taken Away; Classic.<br />
(c) Dave Morse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We then went and had a play on Silk Start (Font 7a/+) and Help the Aged (Font 7a/+), I could do niether but Chris put in a mint effort and nearly stuck the move on HtA. Running out of time, we headed down to D.I.Y an E3 6a solo with a cruxy move to start but trickyness up high and despite a good drop-zone the ground slopes away behind this, giving a feeling of exposure. Dave and Josh put in a brilliant effort but felt uneasy at committing to the tricky high move, I struggled on the start move partly due to fear of falling off the top.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMELgVmtqaw/T1YijRK4igI/AAAAAAAAAEY/3OcN9PAZOms/s1600/048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMELgVmtqaw/T1YijRK4igI/AAAAAAAAAEY/3OcN9PAZOms/s320/048.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh putting in a great effort on D.I.Y.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>All in all, it's been a brilliant week or so of climbing, with both sides of the coin, failure and success experienced. After playing with Jess' new puppy, Woody, all weekend I really should be cracking on with my dissertation...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i1bZdDwUsQw/T1YkKd8ld5I/AAAAAAAAAEo/VfjRvCDR6dc/s1600/052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i1bZdDwUsQw/T1YkKd8ld5I/AAAAAAAAAEo/VfjRvCDR6dc/s320/052.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woody and Jess watching the rabbits...N'awww</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-83587054013069149802012-02-22T06:04:00.000-08:002012-02-22T06:04:10.276-08:00Gotta keep on, keeping on...<div style="text-align: justify;">January and February have been pretty crappy months in the big N.W, unfortunately. We've been plagued by really crappy weather, too warm for the winter-ey whiteness, but too wet for the rock. On top of this I feel increasingly weighed down by uni work, I can feel my energy and psyche being drained and this just makes me feel worse. Being of a positive mindset I have tried to fight this, and I'm still a happy chappy on the whole, but the last couple of months have definitely lived up to their depressing reputation. I keep trying to remember that you gotta have the lows to appreciate the highs...<br />
<br />
If you feel like this too, then I recommend you watch this video:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/en/srikumar_rao_plug_into_your_hard_wired_happiness.html">http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/en/srikumar_rao_plug_into_your_hard_wired_happiness.html</a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">"Happiness" is something I seem to be more obsessed/fascinated/intrigued by than many people, well I'm probably not, but I am very conscious that YOU are responsible for your own happiness and if you aren't happy then YOU have to do something to change your current predicament, no-one else can, should or will do it for you. So if you feel down in the dumps, watch the vid and think about it, I hope it inspires you. Pass it on to others too, if you feel it would help them too. It's not necessarily easy to make the change, could take some real balls and commitment, but if it'll make a difference then why not go for it? Happiness is the key, or else what is the point? Have a good hard think about what makes you happy too rather than just believing society's set path to happiness, as although it may work for some it won't work for all, we are all different and that's the beauty of life; variety!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Anyway, back to climbing. As I said the weather has been real bad, but I have been trying to get out, honest! I have had a couple of okey-ish trips to Porth Ysgo, on the Lleyn Peninsula. The first trip was dry when we arrived and I managed to bosh out a soft unnamed V6 which was fun, and also started working on my first V7; Perrin's Crack Sit-down start. Then it rained and I don't think I did anything else after that.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0H8NPqnaC6g/T0PiUSx5JXI/AAAAAAAAADI/nIG8M8szhfk/s1600/017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0H8NPqnaC6g/T0PiUSx5JXI/AAAAAAAAADI/nIG8M8szhfk/s320/017.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris on the send on the un-named V6</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The second trip, we arrived to find the rock wet! So we sat around and played on the 'Ysgo Challenge; Lite', which is an axel with two wheels on each end left over from when the area was a port or 'Porth' in welsh. The actual one is a lot heavier, but I still couldn't do the light version. Bubbles beasted it though, as did Miles, Ballsford (managing to hold it one armed above his head, and press it out 15 times with two arms), Dyllan and Burdy who made t look like it was made of polystyrene! I don't think I did anything of note on this trip though we had a good play on a damp Popcorn Party; V6, which I did last year but is always a joy to climb on, beautiful rock and tricky technical moves.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6i5CfI_Xwvs/T0PjYCrHR2I/AAAAAAAAADY/lPnbWPr9a90/s1600/401258_10151263247275232_692315231_23251108_1396750971_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6i5CfI_Xwvs/T0PjYCrHR2I/AAAAAAAAADY/lPnbWPr9a90/s320/401258_10151263247275232_692315231_23251108_1396750971_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles completing the 'Ysgo Challenge; Lite' GRRR<br />
(c) Nikki Sommers</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zIRTniH0Lkc/T0PjZGI2xtI/AAAAAAAAADg/0sjVdw4kW_U/s1600/407545_10151237353395533_534170532_22918938_291953199_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zIRTniH0Lkc/T0PjZGI2xtI/AAAAAAAAADg/0sjVdw4kW_U/s320/407545_10151237353395533_534170532_22918938_291953199_n.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling funny faces on Popcorn Party, V6.<br />
Classic of Porth Ysgo. (c) Miles Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">In preparation for a trip to Scotland which thanks to a poor forecast never happened, Bubbles took me out for a day of getting used to wearing crampons, for a day up Bristly Ridge on the Glyders. This was actually on a beautiful day, and I felt like a kid in a sweet shop, just so excited to be out having an adventure, learning to climb again (almost), taking me back to my early days in climbing but without my crippling fear of heights.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Kc1Lw-KPio/T0Pk1oMBtxI/AAAAAAAAADo/u3Qhh5LCEM8/s1600/006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Kc1Lw-KPio/T0Pk1oMBtxI/AAAAAAAAADo/u3Qhh5LCEM8/s320/006.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles showing just how Alpinists prepare before a winter route... eeerrrm?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TkdPGHUyyMA/T0PlGoyW4vI/AAAAAAAAADw/rvfX8iwqzLs/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TkdPGHUyyMA/T0PlGoyW4vI/AAAAAAAAADw/rvfX8iwqzLs/s320/008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tryfan, and the Carneddau... B-E-A-Utiful.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">That was a while ago, but yesterday I got out and tied on for the second time this year! Off to the Orme with Al Mason, we met up with Sam Radcliffe and Tom Livingstone. We nipped off to do a Fr6c above Parisella's Cave, instead doing the 6a+ by accident, though it felt stiff at that! We then headed back to their route, to find Livingstone having a top-rope on a bouldery 7a called Jerusalem is Lost. I was encouraged to have a go, so I pulled the rope down and went for it, but failed on the start of the crux. Lowering down a few inches I was back on the floor, and after a few more attempts like this, made the crux move and clipped the second bolt! Then with misremembered beta being thrown up at me, I got to the top, Huzzah! We then went up to the Firefly area for some trad (gulp!), I was a bit gripped knowing it was all hard, E3+ sort of affairs and therefore the sort of thing I would find tricky at my best last year! Anyway, Mason boshed on up Firefly, with a cheeky rest on the bolt as it was wet. Leaving the gear in, I was originally just going to top-rope it, feeling tired from my previous efforts. However, Mason convinced me to go for the lead, so I did, slipping off on the second move I dropped back to the ground, and went for it again, this time getting it right, with the pump rising I managed to rest it off and carry on all the way to the chains, just by being confident and keeping on! The rain set in, and after Mason had a clean ascent, we finished the day off in the Cave. After Livingstone sent the 7a of earlier in the day, we boshed down to a busy cave. I headed for the Left Wall traverse, refining and remembering my sequence. I then had a burn from the start to see how I was going and surprised myself with my best link yet, getting through the crux and failing due to not quite being able to remember some moves.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HuxmJxSWw_o/T0PjW1-rLlI/AAAAAAAAADQ/j_BzPlqV93k/s1600/303666_721374694918_274706047_8844336_1815815520_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HuxmJxSWw_o/T0PjW1-rLlI/AAAAAAAAADQ/j_BzPlqV93k/s320/303666_721374694918_274706047_8844336_1815815520_n.jpg" width="178" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owain sending Jerusalem is Lost Fr7a, last summer.<br />
(c) Owain Atkins</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">So if everything seems crap and pointless, keep on keeping on, and work out where you are going wrong and change that to squeeze some more happiness out of your life. Oh and take a chance every once in a while, it feels good, I promise...</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-80577936681427485042012-02-15T05:05:00.002-08:002012-02-15T05:08:15.365-08:00Humans are shit...<div style="text-align: justify;">A bit of a different post here, but it is something I feel strongly about. As some of you may know, during my year out between Sixth Form and Uni, I went away and had some amazing experiences. One of these was volunteering in a Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre in Thailand, in which monkeys, gibbons, bears and many other animals that had been taken from their natural environment and used by humans as photo-props, and pets as babies but then mistreated as they grew to adolescence and became more aggressive. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The centre I went to is run by the WFFT or Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand, I worked with many of the animals, feeding them, cleaning enclosures, creating stimuli for them to give a more natural life, and more interest than being kept in an average enclosure, with the aim that one day they might be ready to be released into the wild. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The staff and volunteers at WFFT do a brilliant job, making life for these animals good again, whilst trying to help as many animals as possible, and fight for animals rights through-out Thailand, often standing up and using the media to bring light to any poor conduct from humans towards animals, both wild and domestic. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately it seems that the government in Thailand are shits too and have been found to be killing elephants in the natural reserves to make a bit of money on the black market. I was lucky enough to see these elephants on a trip from the centre and it is amazing to see such a powerful, wild animal that should not be shot and sold for money, least of all by those who already have enough.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">WFFT stood up against the government, naming, shaming and campainging them to punish those who are guilty. This has unfortunately caused a massive backlash from the government towards WFFT and also an Elephant sanctuary (I don't know much about this), whereby the government has sent armed officials to raid the sanctuary, and have now taken around 100 animals without anesthesia catching them in an aggressive and stressful way. They have also arrested one staff member and detained many other volunteers and staff members, without real reason. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here are some videos of the raid;</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sandee the Binturong being captured, knocked off branches, hit with nets as the gov't officials hamfistedly attempt to catch him: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150605164348290">https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150605164348290</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Having been caught, the officials get him into a crate by holding his tail, pinning him down and trap his tail in the crate door, whilst Thai officials laugh:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150605233393290&set=vb.28211827656&type=2&permPage=1">https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150605233393290&set=vb.28211827656&type=2&permPage=1</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I emplore you to help the plight of these animals, it really sickens me to hear of this and to see the videos makes me feel really angry. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">However, there are a number of ways you can help;</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Firstly you can sign the petition here; <a href="http://www.thepetitionsite.com/2/urgent-plea-for-rescued-thai-wildlife/">http://www.thepetitionsite.com/2/urgent-plea-for-rescued-thai-wildlife/</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Secondly you can send an email to the Thai Embassy in London: <span style="background-color: #e3eefc; color: #0e2b43; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left;">csinfo@thaiembassyuk.org.uk</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The British Embassy in Bangkok: ConsularEnquiriesBangkok@fco.gov.uk </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here is a stock email another ex-volunteer wrote to make it easier for you;</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">Dear Sir/Madam</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">It has come to my attention that officials have raided Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand, located Phet Buri, Thailand 76130. As I am writing this one co-worker has been arrested, and over 100 animals taken from the sanctuary in an inhumane way, causing stress and harm to these animals.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">I have known this foundation to do great work preserving the beautiful wildlife of your country. A wildlife so rich you have every reason to be proud of. A foundation that has dedicated itself to help elephants, primates, bears, tigers and so forth should have every support of the government. Not only for tourists (as eco-tourism is booming business) but very much so for the people of your country it is so important to preserve the wildlife that is still with us. You have so many animals living in your country that are almost extinct, and it would be a powerful message to your own people and the world if you could preserve them now and in the future.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">The raid that has been performed now followed after a critical article was written regarding the trade of elephants in your national parks. If this truly is the reason the raid was sanctioned, than I am truly appalled.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">I would really appreciate it if you would let your government know that I am really worried about the wellbeing of the workers at the foundation and of the rescued animals currently residing there.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">I would also like you to let your government know that I would applaude any future support given to Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand and the wildlife in general.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">Thank you very much for the time you have taken to read this email, I am looking forward to a positive reply.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px; text-align: left;">Sincerely,</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Simply copy and paste it into your email, add your name and hit send, it's simple and you can make a difference! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Please, please, please do this, it must be stopped! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Thank you for reading this and helping these animals.</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-11268081384003737022012-01-21T15:32:00.000-08:002012-01-21T15:40:15.394-08:00The future is unwritten...<div style="text-align: justify;">So 2011 is out and having reflected upon the good and bad of the last year, I think I now need to start setting achievable goals for 2012, whilst also outlining things I can do to achieve them. Having read Mason and Morse's blogs it seems to be a good idea to look back and analyse the past year and use that to set next year's goals and area's for improvement.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In preparation, I have been doing a bit of research and trying to work out key areas to train that may give me the edge when I get onto the rock next year. I have begun a love-affair with sustained, sometimes bold routes up vertical walls, and so I obviously need to be fit, but there are a few subtle things that I can train that require (a) less effort and (b) could make a bigger difference whilst saving the effects of training for when I am in dire need of a plateau-breaker. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The first of my sneaky tricks is to get good frog flexibility! Being able to get my CoG (and my semi) as close to the rock as possible will likely make a bigger difference than extra fitness, especially when pumped! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The second is to do some drills (sounds boring as feck eh? But it seems a lot of other sports and the military use them to good effect). This is to focus on the fact that once you (I) get pumped, quite often technique, sequence deciphering, gear placement, and aggressive mindsets go out the window quicker than you can say "Take!". By drilling myself good movement skills in a normal situation and then build it into stressful situations, I will hopefully reinforce smooth movement, efficient sequence deciphering, and the ability to place good gear, allowing better focus, that's the theory anyway...<br />
<br />
Thirdly, climb with Al Mason more, because despite him being hairy and smelly, I have done all my E4 on-sights with him either belaying or at the crag, and most of my hard boulders with him... I can learn a lot from him and he pushes me. Maybe I just fancy him...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>2012 GOALS:</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br />
</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b> Climbing Goals</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><ul><li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Onsight some classic, solid E4s.</b> E.g. Ressurection, Moon Walk, Sugar Cane Country, Great Wall (Both!), Star Wars, Bloody Sunday, True Grip, Roc-Nest Monster, Break On Through, etc.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Ground-up an E5 that inspires me.</b> E.g. Rimsky Korsakov/Mur y meirwon/Pembroke E5?</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Redpoint 7b</b>. E.g. Red Meat, Ceuse 7b, Bloodsports?</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Onsight more 7a's and some 7a+'s.</b> E.g. Axle Attack, Calimero, Ceuse 7a/+'s.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Send powerful V6 and technical V7.</b> E.g. Chummer's Wall, Lipstick, Perrin's Crack SDS.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Get more comfortable yet again on sustained, pumpy ground, especially with a trad rack and/or runouts. </b>This will basically be a case of putting in effort whilst training, but more importantly getting on bigger sport numbers and simply getting on pumpy trad routes!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Have a good day at the Cromlech!</b> Have a day doing classics, then get on Foil and try it onsight/ground-up. It's not a route I'm super bothered about so it should breakdown the 'Cromlech barrier'. Just do Memory Lane. Then start getting on the harder routes.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Remain motivated and injury-free.</b></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Go on some sweeeet trips</b>. Got a fair bit lined up once I'm free from uni; Pabbay or Ceuse in June, Pembroke or Lakes in July, maybe Les Alpes in August?</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Get some winter climbing done!</b> </li>
</ul><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Life Goals</b></div><ul><li style="text-align: justify;"><u style="font-weight: bold;">Pass my degree!!!</u> - Pretty important this one, don't want to waste all that money!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Enjoy the last 6 months of Uni life.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Get a job that I can save loads of money with for Autumn/Winter 2012/13.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Try and be the nicest, happiest, most positive person I can.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Learn to drive</b>, pass my test and get some wheels.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Save as much of my last loans as possible!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>BE HAPPY</u></b></li>
</ul><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">So is there any vague plan I hear you ask! Yes! Trip-wise, I won't be going anywhere sunny at Easter as I have revision for finals to do. However, I am hoping to go to places like Kilnsey and Malham for short hits in the spring. Then, June will be exciting with either a trad expedition to Pabbay in the Scottish Outer Hebrides. OR a sun-tastic sport trip to Ceuse in Spain. Hopefully, and almost certainly if I go to Ceuse, I'd like to go to Pembroke for 2-3 weeks in July, really get my teeth into the climbing there and do some inspiring routes! Then, dependant on money, I will either head to the Alps with Bubbles, or continue to crag in the UK whilst finding a bleeding job for the winter! Preferably in North Wales so I can live with Jess...<br />
<br />
</div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br />
</b></div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-45268469763753821072011-12-24T12:16:00.000-08:002011-12-24T12:16:02.562-08:00Three hundred and sixty five, maaan...<div style="text-align: justify;">Soon, another year will be submitted to time immemorial and, for better or worse, richer or poorer, every single one of the 6.9 billion people alive in the world today have grown, changed, breathed in and experienced the world we live in and live to continue to do so... </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">For me and my climbing it has been a year full of learning, highs, lows and realisation (Not the 9a+ super route at Ceuse, next year maybe?) . At times I have looked back at the year and thought "I've done barely anything to be proud of this year" which felt quite depressing, wondering if I had stagnated or worse, regressed as a climber and as a person. Luckily, once the cold, hard figures and the warm, fuzzy logics are analysed properly, it has been another good year, and actually probably better than the last! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">So lets get some real number crunching done:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B3YREQMVE8s/TvJhU5fX6dI/AAAAAAAAAC0/h4_hAx1EsGU/s1600/2010-11gradechart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B3YREQMVE8s/TvJhU5fX6dI/AAAAAAAAAC0/h4_hAx1EsGU/s1600/2010-11gradechart.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">On the face of the cold hard facts alone, I have bettered or matched 2010's grades in every discipline and done more climbing despite injury, Hooray! However, I can hear you saying, "But you've done loads more climbing this year Dunc, surely you should have smashed your previous bests!?" Well yep, maybe but 2011 has been about creating a stable base upon which to progress, rather than shakily trying to stack blocks ever higher in 2010's areas of success, I have broadened my choice of routes, and begun moving towards the style I aspire to: steeper, more sustained routes. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">On top of the above figures I have; onsighted more E3's than last year, but unlike last year they weren't all slabs; I climbed overhung walls, aretes, corners, slabs, all sorts! The only E3/E4 I did, actually felt harder than the E4s I did last year, as it was a lot more dangerous, but it was also SO much better! I have also had some good failures both physically and mentally; </div><br />
<ul><li style="text-align: justify;">Stroll On E3 6a - didn't quite have the guns, or the commitment level to stick the laybacks, lesson learnt.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">The Big Groove E3 5c - reachy crux above a nasty ledge, good call backing off as I barely made it on second!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Cream E4 6a - Missed the crux hold, wrong size cam in the crack didn't help the chattering in the back of my head! What a route though, WOW!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Poisoned Arrow - End of a hard day, got absolutely boxed putting good kit in, and just couldn't rest it out! </li>
</ul><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sport climbing was however an area of good improvement, the trip to El Chorro at Easter was a real boost to my fitness and my confidence at tackling steep, pumpy ground, on-sight. RP-ed my first 7a then on-sighted my second, yeeeha! This came about through accepting failure as a possibilty but turning it into a success as I tried to learn something from the failure and relish the fact that it simply got my mind and body more used to the higher difficulty.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In bouldering, I have not yet upped my RP grade, though have flashed a couple of problems around the V6 mark, and have been working hard to crack the V8 (Fr7c+) Left Wall Traverse, which features a powerful V6 into a longer, sustained V6. I'm getting there, but there is a lot of uncertainty still.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I also learnt some new climbing techniques during what turned out to be a wet month in North Wales; I flew off to Squamish, Canada and learnt the dark art of hand and finger jamming, something I felt to be a major weakness of mine. I now try to find jams wherever possible and am certain this will have a positive effect on my climbing in pumpy situations as I'll be able to rest effectively if there is a good crack going!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mastering the art of good heel use feels like a sneaky bonus and one I felt pride in when I used it to flash Parisella's Original, and one night bouldering at the Barn, getting good heel positioning on a Font 6c+ crimpy rail, allowing an effortless crossover. I'm keen to use this to good effect also!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Personally, I have felt that I have become a more negative and slightly less tolerant person for some of this year, this realisation coming in Autumn time for me, these are two Character traits I wish to have nothing to do with. Luckily I saw this, and have made an effort to be more tolerant and nicer once again, lets hope its working :-). As my graduation draws ever closer, excitement and dread grow in equal measure, I know the sort of lifestyle I want to lead, but it will require bold actions to achieve, and a thick skin to ignore the nay-sayers. I have also discovered another semi-passion, running in the mountains, a great way to keep fit and just be outside on days you wouldn't like to be climbing!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Climbing highlights of this year include:</div><div><ul><li style="text-align: justify;">Capital Punishment - A brilliant day, Suicide Wall Route 1, Al's new(ish) route, then this, my ascent of the year.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Glass Arete - After my Squamish month I felt doubtful at whether I could still ride the pump, some brilliant sustained moves stretched a grin upon my face.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">La Novia - Perfect mixture of control, focus and aggression, and physically my hardest on-sight.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">E3's - Geireagle, Colossus, Astoroth, Stimulator...</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Pembroke trip in March - an E1 in the rain, The Butcher, and just nice weather and good routes.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Squamish trip - Angel's Crest, Squamish Buttress, Seasoned in the Sun, Exasperator, Dirt-bagging!</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Failures - Cream, Poisoned Arrow, Stroll On, Hand-Jive...</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Boulder - Flashing Parisella's Original was brilliant! Chaos Emerald Crack and my Birthday boulder bash were good too.</li>
</ul><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Overall, I have felt that I have pushed myself a lot this year, failing on some hard routes, but mainly I have broadened my skill set and become a more rounded climber, from which I can push onto the next level knowing I am a fairly solid E3 leader, and have become more confident at two climbing styles I would have been very uncomfortable with in 2010. Injury has also reared its ugly head, but luckily I had found my positivity, and the 'rest' has allowed me to come out feeling just as good as before! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I have realised that I'm a pretty good all-rounder; I'm good technically, getting fitter, and can occasionally crank out some hard moves. Yet I still feel I have plenty of improvement left, both physically and mentally, and I'm psyched to push into new ground on my newly acquired stable base.<br />
<br />
In other news a few notable mentions;<br />
<br />
<ul><li>Chris Carroll flashing 7a+... BEAST! </li>
<li>Owain crushing his first E3's and Axle Attack in December!</li>
<li>Mason doing what he thought was a new E6 on Suicide Walls and flashing 7c.</li>
<li>Mikey doing a new E6 at tremadog, and still ticking Fr8a DWS and Font 8a after breaking his ankle!</li>
<li>Bubbles actually getting up a new route in Peru, Alpine stylee.</li>
<li>Morsey crushing Fay, Pacemaker and Break On Through in 2 days...</li>
<li>Pezza soloing Oh man I gotta have a wildebeest, at E1... NICE!</li>
</ul><div>Nice one guys!</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X-dZYWwYTGI/TvYwYvnsDfI/AAAAAAAAADA/Tk6P5a6a4Mc/s1600/282037_10150323227630470_656050469_9721958_733668_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X-dZYWwYTGI/TvYwYvnsDfI/AAAAAAAAADA/Tk6P5a6a4Mc/s320/282037_10150323227630470_656050469_9721958_733668_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2011: It's a thumbs up from me!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Stay tuned for my hopes, dreams and goals for 2012...</div></div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-14161951974469197672011-11-25T09:32:00.000-08:002011-11-25T09:32:12.083-08:00Out of the woods??The woods of injury were dark and scary; wondering how long I would be out for, whether I would tweak my finger again, how much I had set myself back if I want to improve and reach new (so far unset) targets? On top of this, everyone was keen to get out but I either couldn't as they wanted to climb hard or just plain and simply didn't want to! This time of year always sees a slight drop in trad climbing psyche, the dropping temperatures and rain meaning you have to pick your crag carefully and risk getting wet halfway through a route. I absolutely love trad climbing, but once autumn sets in, I begin to feel the psyche for bouldering grow, warm and fuzzy inside me.<br />
<br />
However, the woods weren't all dark, scary and depressing; they gave me another view into my mountainous world through fell-running. I doubt fell-running will ever be as strong a passion as rock climbing is for me, but nevertheless it is always good to keep cardiovascular fitness up, and it allows you to go into the mountains when injured or its wet and keep in touch, maybe even check out new crags you've never been to before but normally wouldn't risk wasting a good, dry day on... Plus its just good, plain fun pelting it down hills and staggering back up the other side! By no means am I the best rock climber in the world, but with fell-running I am probably far worse! Still, maybe one day I will do the Paddy Buckley Round in the beautiful Northern Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park... A tough round, with roughly 100km of distance to run, and 8,500m of ascent taking in a lot of summits along the way, all in 24 hours if you can!<br />
<br />
Check out the stats here: <a href="http://www.gofar.eclipse.co.uk/paddybuckleyround.html">http://www.gofar.eclipse.co.uk/paddybuckleyround.html</a><br />
<br />
The PBR makes up the Welsh contingent of the UK's big 3: The Lake district offering the Bob Graham Round, and The Scottish Highlands offering the Charley Ramsay Round. All of a similar distance and ascent. Some nutter called Mike Hartley did all 3 back to back in 3 days, 14 hours and 20 mins... RESPECT!<br />
<br />
However, I have been doing some climbing recently, and some of it I'm even quite chuffed with! The last weekend of October I spent most of my time working, but on the Sunday after planning a wall session it brightened up beautifully over in Ogwen Valley so housemate Ollie, Rich "McLovin" Kemble and I went for a quick session at the Milestone buttress boulders. Not much actually ticked but I tried a few things, getting close on an unnamed V6 that Kemble crushed with an almost unavoidable 'dab' on the pad. I did manage Jez's Arete a highball yet shortlived crimpy V4, which got a bit gripping on the topout! Tried a few other bits but a nice afternoon out nonetheless.<br />
<br />
Once the week ended the weather brightened up and I headed off to the Orme with Mason, Drew and Owain. We were destined for Pill-Box Wall, a short overhanging wall on the Northern edge of the headland. However, on arrival we were greeted by shade and a very cold wind, still we warmed up and started trying Pill-Box original, V6. Drew showed us the beta, Mason managed a quick repeat, whilst Owain and I had a slightly tougher time. After Mason and Owain valiantly tried Mr Olympia, whilst me and Drew played on Pillbox Original, we decided to head down to Parisella's due to some fabled warmth...<br />
<br />
After running down to warm up, we set up our pads below Parisella's Original, a V6 first put up by Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon back in the day. I had wanted to try this problem for a while, so suddenly got keen, especially with the amount of pads on offer! Mason stepped up and having done it before, despatched it first go, effortlessly revealing the moves for me. As nobody else had their shoes on, I thought I would have a go, expecting it to be a lot harder than Al made it look I grabbed the starting jug with both hands and jumped my feet into position. Moving my hands the way Mason had, involving a tricky crossover, I placed my right heel perfectly and stretched for the next hold... everything felt totally rubbish, but luckily I was directed into the good hold before I committed to one of the poorer ones. A hard cut-loose and a few more goey moves later, I was eye-balling the finishing jug, but could feel my strength dropping... I lunged and grabbed it, hanging there for a second to make sure I had actually finished and dropped off. Flashed! My first proper tick in the Cave and its a bloody flash! Apparently it's V6/7 but I don't believe that for a second, V5/6 more like, the holds are all good, and if you get the heel right and know where your hand is going it doesn't have many hard moves. Mason sent a V8 and a few of us had a play on the start to Left Wall Traverse, which is proper hard!<br />
<br />
Sunday dawned bright once again, and Ollie Burrows, an Ogwen Cottage CA picked me up for a Roscolyn hit. As niether of us had been there before, it took a while to find it, but when we did it was totally sheltered from the wind and bathed in sunlight! To start we did Icarus a 2 pitch HVS, I led the easy first and Ollie the steeper 2nd pitch. We then went back in and I led Wild Rover, a brilliant little E1 5a slabby wall climb. The start was a bit bold, but the climbing was positive and open and soon enough the gear got good, and I began enjoying it. I dropped the ropes and walked back round to belay Ollie on it. Soon enough it was my turn to climb it again, it was just as good second time round! Despite racking up for Savage Sunbird, I totally wussed out and we pottered up a wet VS topping out as the sun set, so maybe lucky we didn't do the E2.<br />
<br />
It looks like I am nearly out of the woods of injury, though looking back on it, it has given me another interesting and healthy aspect to my life, given me some rest from climbing and allowed me to crack on with some of my 3rd year work...<br />
<br />
Then there was the BUMS Peak trip! First thing Saturday morning, Rich K picked me and Jess up from Glossop and we headed to Stanage Plantation. Rich and I then spent the rest of the day looking for dry rock, heading to Curbar, then "Burbage South" (Millstone). A few good easy problems were done but Trackside and Gorrilla Warfare were both damp/totally wet. So we headed off to somewhere new...<br />
<br />
"Excuse me, nice lady, which bit of Burbage are we at?"<br />
<br />
"You aren't at Burbage, you are above Millstone at Owler Tor..."<br />
<br />
"Oh, right, woops! Thanks"<br />
<br />
So yeah... but it all worked out good because we ended up at the Mother Cap, where Rich got on better with the Font 7b than Conan the Librarian, a tricky V4 (What the flip!?!). I got super inspired by Conan, getting pretty close to ticking it but alas it wasn't to be... I just couldn't quite latch the sloper after the small slopey crimp rail! Rich then put in a mint effort on a V6 sitter at Mother's pet but couldn't quite do the top out! We left the crag super psyched to return the next day, send our problems and then head on to Curbar for some trad...<br />
<br />
Unfortunately after having a tame night out, we awoke to thick fog in Sheffield, so headed to the Climbing Works and bouldered our little hearts out. Not the perfect trip but not a bad one either, always good to get a good spanking!<br />
<br />
So here endeth the lesson:<br />
<br />
Don't rush through the woods of injury, but take the time to stop and admire the flowers and those cute little squirrels and rabbits along the way, just be careful not to rush out, as you may find yourself in deeper, darker woods... Sometimes you burn all the brighter in the sun having strolled through the woods a while...Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-87354219301648929242011-10-27T04:13:00.000-07:002011-10-27T04:13:56.301-07:00Runaway...<div style="text-align: justify;">Not much extreme rock to report since Rub A Dub-Dub, I'm afraid...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I had an enforced week off of climbing to let the inflammation go down, me and Bubbles went on another fell run, intending to run the Nantlle ridge, but got totally lost in Beddgelert forest. We eventually found our way to the bottom of the ridge, but niether of us could be bothered to go up into the wind and cloud, so we decided to find the most direct route back to the car for a future run.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Spent one weekend at home, in which Bubbles and I did the uber-classic HVS adventure route, Moonraker at Berry Head, Brixham. Situated in The Old Redoubt Sea-cave, the traverse through the dark depths of the cave makes the approach to Gogarth's Main Cliff look like the walk in to Stanage. Unfortunately we arrived after low-tide due to England losing the Rugby, but instead of abbing in we thought we'd chance the traverse. With the water not high enough for the higher traverse but just over the low one, we waded across. I got totally soaked by some swell, which wasn't cool. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-45iYt1DgDWI/Tqk4qjq7FTI/AAAAAAAAACM/nKLAyCTMYb0/s1600/IMG_0338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-45iYt1DgDWI/Tqk4qjq7FTI/AAAAAAAAACM/nKLAyCTMYb0/s320/IMG_0338.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversing through the back of the Cave at an inconveniant tide!<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Anyway, we eventually got to the belay, and after some obligatory faffing, Tom set off up the steep, juggy 1st pitch. After much gear placing, he was at the belay, and I squelched my way up, looking along the traverse of the classic E3, Dreadnought as I passed. Next up was my 4c pitch, a bit of a corner crack followed by some traversing along the guano covered bands of rock before reaching the belay ledge I had reached on my first sea cliff route, Goddess of Gloom in September 2009. Sitting down on the palatial belay, Bubbles followed me up and got stuck into the last pitch, a steep, cornery affair, but at least the rock got less pooey the higher he got. A brilliant route, slightly marred for me by my moistness, but definitely good for the finger. I think until I feel my finger is back to health, I'll try and get the odd adventure route in every week, allowing me my fix but also to do some classics that I would normally dismiss as too easy, or esoteric.</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VNUDoUFImjE/Tqk5z5LaBlI/AAAAAAAAACk/ziV_rwx7lBU/s1600/IMG_0345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VNUDoUFImjE/Tqk5z5LaBlI/AAAAAAAAACk/ziV_rwx7lBU/s320/IMG_0345.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seconding pitch one, Dreadnought traverses out to my right.<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DItiYllsixw/Tqk56P0Hc0I/AAAAAAAAACs/q7NTMxtli8w/s1600/IMG_0371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DItiYllsixw/Tqk56P0Hc0I/AAAAAAAAACs/q7NTMxtli8w/s320/IMG_0371.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AT THE TOP! (c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">For the rest of the week I spent a lot of time trying to write about a massive subject in just 600 words, eventually cutting the subject matter down, and therefore finishing the essay!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Due to a good forecast for the weekend but people wanting to climb hard; not good for finger, I went for a run in the mountains; not good for legs! I was dropped off at around 10:15 at Pen-y-Pass by Bubbles and Nikki on their way to Tremadog, and was soon dodging the hordes on the track up to Crib Goch, eventually the angle got too much for me to handle along with the rocky track, so I slowed to a quick walk, passing as many walkers as my legs would allow. Soon I was on Crib Goch's ridge for the first time, lots of people up there were looking quite gripped, so I tried to hide my haste and only pass at appropriate points, though many let me pass of their own accord, thanks to them. Lots of tomfoolery occurred, with a group using slings on spikes to allow 'spotting' (!?!?!) and a rescue by the RAF Sea King. I carried on over Crib y Ddysgl and up to the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) for a quick sit-down and an energy gel. I also finished my water and re-filled in the Cafe, though didn't need to steal any sugar this time! The time was 11:58 exactly when I stopped, but after my break I set off down the Snowdon Ranger's Path which goes over the top of Clogwyn D'ur Arddu. I was now reversing the first run I did with Bubbles, so I went up Moel Cyngorhion, after a snickers break, back up over Foel Goch, Foel Goen and then extended it up and over Moel Eilio. Going down Moel Eilio's ridge my legs were really feeling it, and it turned out to be far steeper and difficult to run than it looks from Llanberis. I almost slipped ass over tit a few times due to my trainers being pretty well worn and it being exceedingly boggy! I eventually found my way into Llanberis and onto the high street at 14:18, so it took me around 4 hours to complete the 9.7 mile circuit.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Although not great, I haven't done much fell-running or any running really! Especially after feeling pretty ill for about a week and a half. Depressingly, I just worked out that to do the Paddy Buckley Round, a 61 mile, 24 hour fell-run around Snowdonia, I would have to slightly improve my speed as at my pace I would have completed it in around 25 hours! I need to seriously step up my hill-fitness, though I think it may be a pacing thing and complacency as I was alone. Especially if I want to do the Paddy Buckley at some point, which I think I do. However, I'm sure I can show rapid improvements if I can drag my arse out for runs around Bangor...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">On Monday, after expecting a huge mass of rain to hit North Wales, I awoke to a lot of missed calls from Bubbles about going to Gogarth. I grabbed my stuff and Bubbles, Pete Graham, Matt (??) and I headed to the Holy Island in search of good times! On arrival, the wind was absolutely blasting in from the South West, rocking the car and preventing any of us from wanting to leave. All I could think was; 'I gave up a warm bed and sex for this!?'. Despite this we decided that Main Cliff might be worth a look so we shouldered bags and headed off, propelled by the winds! On arrival at the racking up spot, we looked down to see massive waves pounding into the bottom of the crag, with spray probably hitting at least 5 or 6 metres up the first pitches. With the wind still hitting the crag, the options were simple; go inside the Upper Tier on Bloody Chimney, HVS 4c, or traverse over the wildness on Cordon Bleu, HVS 5b. A wild card was introduced by Bubbles also; "Well, we could go do 'Dream' it would be wild!". As we were at the crag we decided a team ascent of Bloody Chimney would be fine sport for the day, and so racked up and headed off. Matt and I were to follow Pete and Bubbles' ascent as Bubs had done the route before. I led the first pitch which started off with jug-hauling but soon I was offwidth-ing up to the chimney entrance before "going in", which luckily offered a calmer environment than outside. A short cruxy squirm through a hole and I was with Bubbles at the belay. Matt scootled up and set off up the chimney above, whereby short crux sections led to huge chockstone ledges. Soon enough he emerged back into the wind, and I thrutched towards the light...</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x3iCI11qT9E/Tqk5nTDXlQI/AAAAAAAAACc/GINpG1ohJoI/s1600/IMG_0424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x3iCI11qT9E/Tqk5nTDXlQI/AAAAAAAAACc/GINpG1ohJoI/s320/IMG_0424.jpg" width="108" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Cooooeeee!" Making the final crux squirm to the belay of pitch 1.<br />
(c) Tom Ripley</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmIWaS7Nfzk/Tqk5jx0aTHI/AAAAAAAAACU/toXAKYEfBSQ/s1600/IMG_0423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GmIWaS7Nfzk/Tqk5jx0aTHI/AAAAAAAAACU/toXAKYEfBSQ/s320/IMG_0423.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete chimneying towards the light...<br />
(c) Tom Ripley<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">Upon resurfacing one thing became clear to me; there was a massive rain-cloud approaching over South Stack... quickly sorting the rack, I set off hoping to beat the rain. With the biggest bit of gear placed in the smallest bit of crack, the rain struck, hard and wet. Unfortunately this pitch seemed devoid of holds and so after placing a wire behind a loose flake, I committed to some thrutching, soon enough my inadequacies in this technique were shown up by the sopping rock, and I slid down to the semi-rest. I began to feel the fear rising in me as I realised I wouldn't be getting any more gear in until easier ground tantalisingly close... Luckily the rain stopped enough for the rock to not get any wetter, allowing me to evaluate my situation and utilise a different sequence and I was up! After boshing another piece of gear in, I raced to the top and bought a cold, wet Matt up. We raced to the top and back down to the racking up spot, almost being blown over, many times. Brilliant, although a warm bed and sex would have been nice, Bloody Chimney was a brilliant adventure and I'm sure we were the only people at Gogarth to do a route that day... NICE!</div></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Returning home via Indy, I felt decidedly weak and crap, nothing new there then! The rest of the week went by with another Indy session, where I felt less shit, and trying to start new essays...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">But by Thursday, a plan was hatched for Bubbles, Tom Livingstone and me to go for another fell-run. After faffing about where to run we settled on the Carneddau, and what a run it was...</div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yzKt9JEngww/TqLJlHYRMHI/AAAAAAAAACE/TMNkRXGZoXI/s1600/P1010454.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yzKt9JEngww/TqLJlHYRMHI/AAAAAAAAACE/TMNkRXGZoXI/s320/P1010454.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One little man "running" over the Carneddau.<br />
(c) Tom Livingstone</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">First we went up on to Pen yr Olen, across to Carnedd Dafydd, carried on up to Carnedd Dafydd, (which was dusted in snow!!!) and back down to Ogwen valley, via Pen y Helgi Du and a whole lot of bog! A good run of about 8.5 miles and it took us just under 3 hours thanks to Tom's pace setting, the boy is fit and has long legs!</div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xjg4g_G6k/TqLJjvkgziI/AAAAAAAAAB8/KyeV1Hk5BVk/s1600/P1010458.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xjg4g_G6k/TqLJjvkgziI/AAAAAAAAAB8/KyeV1Hk5BVk/s320/P1010458.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bubbles himself, atop Carnedd Dafydd.<br />
(c) Tom Livingstone</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Another cool thing about the run apart from the snow was getting an up-close look at the Black Ladders, one of North Wales' primo winter crags, from what I saw yesterday it would be a horrible summer crag!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SVJkM5XCXto/TqLJg7RYzPI/AAAAAAAAAB0/nSiMCod0KXw/s1600/P1010469.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SVJkM5XCXto/TqLJg7RYzPI/AAAAAAAAAB0/nSiMCod0KXw/s320/P1010469.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Trumphant Three!<br />
(c) Tom Livingstone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The weather looks pretty bad for the next few days so I will be making headway into various essays...<br />
<br />
** Cheers to Tom Ripley for the Moonraker and Bloody Chimney photos, and to Tom Livingstone for the Fell-running photos, HEROES. **Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-34589517787750718172011-09-29T11:40:00.000-07:002011-11-07T06:54:59.442-08:00Ups, Downs and Silver-Linings.<div style="text-align: justify;">So I am now back in Bangor, in a new house, with 2 different housemates, and apparently 300 hours of work to do for just one module...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I have been out climbing a bit though... Before Florence upped and left us for the bright lights of Chamonix, we avoided the hurricane-force winds and did a bit of evening slate climbing; I led Plastic Soldier, a brilliant, long 6a with plastic soldiers hidden a long the way...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The next day we did A Dream of White Horses, HVS 5a... Brilliant, although being distracted when tying in, and then finding you aren't properly tied in on the rope all your gear is clipped to, isn't the best start to a route. However, the 4th pitch is absolutely sensational, big hand and foot holds, good gear and super position!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After Florence left the weather got bad for a bit and a bit of drinking was done, but it eventually dried out and I went back to Gogarth with Owain. The original plan of Aardvark into Achilles was binned for a go at The Big Groove, E3 5c. A coin toss for the crux and I win! We scramble across the base of the crag just above a wild sea, into a nice little belay position above the wild sea... Owain set's off and the sea immediately seems to start rising, and becomes more rough! Luckily I have a bit of a barrier, until a massive wave comes crashing in soaking the whole of my right leg!!! Trying to dry my right boot before the crux, I hang both boots to the belay and stand back, willing Owain to the belay... Eventually I am up with him and off onto the next pitch. Tricky moves onto a ledge above the belay see me trying to reach a big slopey hold, the only way I can reach I can't do anything with it as I'm in totally the wrong position and just above a ledge... I hand over to Owain feeling stupid. Owain gets to the belay, and I am called back to the world of the vertical and away from mesmerisation by the waves crashing into the bottom of Main Cliff. I just about do the crux moves I struggled with before, and blast up the next groove throwing a few jams in to rest on. Next up a lovely sustained 5b groove pitch, I try and climb as quickly as possible, revelling in the position... Once Owain tops out he scrambles up to the top and we coil the ropes and race up and along the top of the crag whilst being battered by the wind... Arriving back at the car as the sun sets, we headed back to bangor.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The next day, me and Mason headed to the little Orme, and more specifically, The Diamond. This is one of the best sport crags in the UK, apparently rivalling Kilnsey, Malham, Raven Tor and LPT. Me and Mase had headed down this time last year but climbed diddly squat due to rain and greasiness on the overhanging rock. This time the weather looked fair and we were surprised to find we were the first ones down there!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">First off Mason onsighted Rub a Dub-Dub F7a, but took surprisingly long to work out the crux sequence! On his way down he beta-d me up for the flash, and chalked the moist holds for me. I headed up in flash mode, managing to remember the sequence quite well, which is an achievement for me! I felt a bit 'fish out of water. however, I got into it and was soon at the crux, remembering Mason's 'crossover on the slopey crimp rail' I went for it but was too pumped to get into it! I pulled back up and had a few goes but it wasn't working for me and I was fed up of flailing in front of all the Wads who had turned up so I lowered off. Up went Emma Twyford who sorted some new beta for the crux, it was also pathed by DMM reps Alex and Rob, and some other dude. However there were wads all over the shop, Caff, Gus Hudgins, Callum Muskett Jim McCormack, Pete Harrison and Tommy Channings, who was a total legend and was super sound to me, introducing himself and not making me feel like a total punter which was nice. Mase was being indecisive so he did RADD again to re-warm up and I had a Top-rope burn and managed to get the crux with the new beta. We then went to try 'Wall of the Evening Light' F7b+ but after ripping 2 holds off and it still being a total greasefest, Mase sacked it in. I got back on RADD and managed to just stay on through the crux, and rode the pump up the technically sustained wall above to a gripping clip of the chains! Wooopeee! We monkeyed up and out of the crag along the fixed lines and headed off on a night out!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately on waking I had real bad pain in my finger and swelling in the knuckle! So definately no climbing for a week at least! :-( So instead I went to all my lectures in my first week, I have been set a lot of work this semester! After a semi-mental Rubix Cube, I headed out on a fell-run with my good mate Bubbles. Fearing absolute humiliation I was worried, but in actual fact I really enjoyed the 13 odd km run, up onto Foel Goen, across to Foel Goch and Moel Cynghorian, down and then up the ridge above Cloggy to Snowdon's summit and then down. Unfortunately, taking 20 Jelly babies isn't really enough food and so we both hit a big brick wall. With no money or food we resorted to stealing water from the disabled toilets and packets of sugar for the run down to Llanberis. We planned on going further but had absolutely no energy left. However, I'm mega keen on the fell-running especially through my injury and as a bad weather activity, definitely a silver lining to my injury cloud!! Its a good way to enjoy the mountains in a different perspective! I'm pretty psyched!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">That's all Folks, keep psyched!! DC</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-59769340040985485252011-09-12T05:13:00.000-07:002011-11-07T06:55:36.973-08:00Tears and tantrums...<div style="text-align: justify;">Not much has been going on in my life since I left Pembroke a few weeks ago, due to my fingers feeling a bit tweeky, starting work, revision for my re-sit and feeling like a rest would do me good, I didn't climb for over a week... but instead of sitting around doing nothing I did some CV exercise interested to see what it did for my climbing. I mainly went swimming as my Dad kept going and offered to pay me in...DEAL! Now then swimming isn't my bag, in fact I feel really out of place in the water, first time in I was coughing and spluttering and only just maintaining the right to swim in the middle lane. But the next few swims, I began to feel a lot more comfortable, and even dare I say it quicker than a few others in the pool, despite my awful technique!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I also hung out with a few old friends, had a couple of BBQ's got drunk, and spent a chilled day in Exeter trying to feel less hungover... This was in fact brilliant and exactly what I wanted to do on coming home, in the past year or so, whenever I come home climbing takes a back seat for me and I focus on other things instead. Partly due to less people who are psyched to get out, also I have less time, and usually because it is either freezing cold, I'm about to go on a climbing trip, or I have just spent a load of time on a climbing bonanza.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Once a week was over I managed to convince my original partner in climb, Mr Rob Steer to accompany me to our original crag, Torbryan Quarry. On arriving, we found a party already there with quickdraws in the two routes I wanted to do! Woopee! Last year I came here and managed to flash Boogie on Down, F6c but floundered on Barney Rubble, F7a+. This year was very similar, though slightly better, I retroflashed Boogie despite being very pumped at the top, phew!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Next go up I was back on Barney, I sorted the moves with a few rests in-between and then went for the send. I felt a bit jittery but got through to the final move on the lower crux but didn't catch the hold right! Damn! But got further than last year, managed to also mess the sequence up around the penultimate bolt! Back on and I got up to the top and past the last tricky sequence! One to come back to, I feel fairly confident that a warm-up on Boogie in which I focused on getting warm not to the top, and then another go at this and it should be in the bag!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Next on the exercise agenda was a run, with my dad who runs all the time and me, who has run maybe twice in the last year? He wanted to test a 9 miler as he was 'leading' his running club on a monday evening run... "Right, ok, nine miles you say?" When he explained where we were going it didn't sound too bad and actually ran us close to home 3/4 of the way round so I could always slink off home if I wanted. The laps of Decoy Park depressed me, but despite being pitifully low on the mileage and high on the feeling of death upon entering the park, once we left I felt better and we had racked up a lot of mileage. Unfortunately a mile or so later I hit a wall, the worse thing is I couldn't see the damn thing... it was at this point my legs started screaming "STOP YOU MENTAL B*STARD!!! GO INFLICT PAIN ON YOUR FOREARMS YOU DID ENOUGH TO US ON TEN TORS PISS OFF!!!!". Fortunately dad pushed me on and I collapsed into the car, proud I had (just) kept up with my dad in his own sport, but a broken man. After 3 days of walking the 4 miles there and back to work and standing up all day my legs finally stopped screaming at me, so upon the arrival of the August Monsoon I went to the wall...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"£6.00 for bouldering entry? You are bloody kidding me!" I thought as I handed over the dollar to the wall I hate the most in a quiet little village in South Devon. (Not naming names) The poor setting and limited size meant I neglected my normal slow and steady warm-up, after a couple of hours we left dissapointed as I always am after going to that wall. In the morning I woke up to my greatest fear, pain in my fingers. I desperately searched the internet so I could self diagnose. After a good bit of reading, I reckoned on a torn pulley... it didn't seem too bad so I rested it the rest of the day, while I revised. Then the next day began icing it followed immediately by the hottest water i could stand twice a day. This was secretly a blessing in disguise as I had revision to be doing for my exam which loomed ever closer...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Exam taken, I taped up and hit the Indy as I had been told that light climbing will stimulate recovery... with nothing harder than V3 climbed and all those V3s being slopey or juggy I woke up the next day to no pain! PHEEEW!! This stimulated me to try and begin training again on my fingerboard, endurance work so just hanging in there on different holds without touching down. Then discovered the Metolius workouts.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Another day off for my partner in climb, Rob led us on an iffy day to Meadfoot Quarry, Rob crushed the 'jugs on a slab' Diamond Rib, HS 4a. Then I got on Median Lucky a low in the grade E1 5b. Quite bold up to the crux but a reasonable peg protects the short 5b sequence. Not wishing to push my finger too hard and with Rob losing interest, we headed off for an afternoon of slack-lining, I am definately getting better, I think...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I have also kept up the running regime, though mediated it to just over 6 miles by basically losing the laps of the park... I have got my time to dead on an hour, and look forward to carrying it on in North Wales, though swimming I won't be, going round in circles is so dumb...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I ventured outside with Henry up to Dartmoor where, without a pad, we decided a session back on the 'Hidden Traverse' at Saddle Tor* would be good. At V4, I should be capable of flashing this or at least getting it in a session, but I have never done it. Perhaps when I was more in tune with Dartmoor granite I wasn't fit enough and now I am my hands get cut to pieces. Anyway the first bit isn't too hard about V2 but pumpy, all on your arms, slopers with a couple of heel-hooks. Then comes the crux, its a hard couple of moves in its own right V3(??) then a few easy moves to the end. I worked the crux a few times noting exact foot positions (often something I neglect on Redpoint), and went for the send. Got to the crux pumped rested it out for a bit but touched the hold that marks the middle of the crux. But couldn't stick it! Henry had a go and almost got the hold but couldn't quite reach! I had a few more goes arriving at the crux fairly fresh on one but couldn't quite stick it without a foot popping off! With rain and darkness closing in, we bailed. On arriving home my forearms were cooked, good training then!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Now I'm back in North Wales and a fairly hard session at the Indy and my finger still feels good, lets see what happens... however we are currently being hit by gail force winds, it would be pretty epic on the crags of North Wales right now!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* I recently found out this is where my old Ten Tors trainer, Ivor died of a heart attack, he was a real nice guy and its a tragedy he died, RIP Ivor you are sorely missed.</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-13596850072559440972011-09-02T09:36:00.000-07:002011-09-02T09:36:21.793-07:00Roll-up! Roll-up!Got a few things for sale in an attempt to de-clutter...<br />
<br />
Montane Tee gone pending payment.<br />
<br />
5.10 Anasazi Velcro's UK 5 1/2 potentially sold.<br />
<br />
Lowe Alpine Wicking Baselayers. Size Small, one red, one blue. Worn a bit but not much, good condition£7.50 posted each.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lsYYDjrj3uY/TmC1HfIew8I/AAAAAAAAABg/vQn2FpRdHz4/s1600/034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lsYYDjrj3uY/TmC1HfIew8I/AAAAAAAAABg/vQn2FpRdHz4/s320/034.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue Lowe Alpine Wicking Tee. Small. £7.50 posted</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nZV0WPJtqI0/TmC1JIZPwRI/AAAAAAAAABk/-SJfCZcsW8M/s1600/035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nZV0WPJtqI0/TmC1JIZPwRI/AAAAAAAAABk/-SJfCZcsW8M/s320/035.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Lowe Alpine Wicking Tee. Small £7.50 posted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
The North Face 'Never Stop Exploring' Cotton Tee. £6 posted. Never worn. Size Small but seems more like a Medium.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CTYVLAm9ihE/TmC1K6P2g_I/AAAAAAAAABo/B7uoZGqDljo/s1600/036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CTYVLAm9ihE/TmC1K6P2g_I/AAAAAAAAABo/B7uoZGqDljo/s320/036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TNF 'Never Stop Exploring' Tee. £6 posted. Small/Medium.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZXzec0pkfk/TmC1yQBooZI/AAAAAAAAABs/b93CVsZi-84/s1600/037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZXzec0pkfk/TmC1yQBooZI/AAAAAAAAABs/b93CVsZi-84/s320/037.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail on TNF Tee.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The North Face Expedition Hat. Worn a few times a few years ago... good condition and sun protection. £8. posted.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRD-SkEA6SI/TmC10YHIftI/AAAAAAAAABw/vYql3jUkQ-A/s1600/038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRD-SkEA6SI/TmC10YHIftI/AAAAAAAAABw/vYql3jUkQ-A/s320/038.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TNF Expedition Hat. £8 posted</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Petzl Elios, White. Size 2. Been used but not much, some cosmetic scratches and marks, still in very good condition. Good beginner/winter Helmet. £30 posted.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NJC9Z44QXjQ/TmC1EVki-cI/AAAAAAAAABY/2nVMSYWfA3E/s1600/031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NJC9Z44QXjQ/TmC1EVki-cI/AAAAAAAAABY/2nVMSYWfA3E/s320/031.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petzl Elios. Size 2. £30 posted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5OwrPPmYmY/TmC1F1ZPAKI/AAAAAAAAABc/IJp7CbNuD_E/s1600/032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z5OwrPPmYmY/TmC1F1ZPAKI/AAAAAAAAABc/IJp7CbNuD_E/s320/032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petzl Elios. Size 2. £30 posted.<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>That's all for now folks!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-25874386353747059102011-08-08T13:35:00.001-07:002011-11-07T06:56:37.260-08:00GREAT British Cragging: Part II<div style="text-align: justify;">The next day we were up and out the door earlier than the previous two days and headed for Llanberis. We drove as far as we could up the road towards Snowdon, then shouldered our packs and yomped up to Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, or as it is more commonly known; Cloggy. A crag almost permanently in the shade due to it's Northern aspect, a visit there requires a hot day, however Cloggy also has a fairly long walk in up the track adjacent to the Snowdon Railway, which isn't so much fun in aforementioned heat. However, as long as you wear shorts and bring spare clothes it's fine. As you walk up to Snowdon, Cloggy sits, waiting, right in front of you, the East Buttress with the arete of The Axe jutting into the sky, the Great Wall smaller but more cunning and deadly with it's Indian Face watching you approach. Then there is the hulking mass of the West Buttress, looking as though it has been tipped over, revealing slabs and corners but also steepness too. This was where we headed; to do West Buttress Eliminate an Extreme Rock tick (my third of the week). At E3 5c, this was the E3 that last year was to break me into the grade proper, fortunately the weather was never good enough. I would have floundered on this last year for sure, the first pitch bold and tricky, the second pitch which was my lead - given 5b but it looks as though it has lost a large chunk of rock - solid 5c climbing above a ledge and an RP2. Then Walsh's Groove, the party-piece, only tech 5b but sustained and in this case wet, thankfully I now know how to jam, I would have struggled like hell on this last year, just jamming your body into the groove isn't enough! An absolutely brilliant route but after this I was more than ready to rest as I was totally knackered, both mentally and physically...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Thankfully the next day I had promised to meet Jess in Chester before heading to Capel Curig that evening. Jess and I spent a perfect day just chilling out on patches of grass together, messing around and just generally being silly before we had to spend the next month apart again. The day didn't last nearly long enough but before I knew it I was off back to North Wales and on my way Capel Curig. After a dinner consisting of; a chicken mayo sandwich, a banana, a chocolate flapjack and a bottle of Lilt, I was met by Davey Morse and we sped off South in the Chariot... it's last journey before being taken off the road... a sad time for us all.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The next morning dawned overcast and still with showers forecasted we set off in good spirits to Mother Carey's Kitchen. 1st route up was my lead to get us both warmed up ready for some meatier routes, I chose Rock Idol E1 5a, rumoured to be one of the best E1s in the country! Abbing down I looked across at a steep, hungry, wide crack, uh oh this could be harder than E1 I thought. Once I got down though, Dave explained that the route follows the crack but climbs on the right-hand wall... phew! As I pulled on I realised what the main difficulty of the route would be; the greasiness. This is a problem on all sea cliffs; moisture from the sea makes the rock wet, requiring a good bit of sun or a stiff breeze to dry it off, unfortunately today was very still, and it was overcast... luckily the holds are absolutely massive and there are two really good rests! A really good route, I had to run it out to prevent running out of draws but the run-outs are enjoyable on big holds and if you wanted you could take more gear and stitch the thing up! Definately recommended but one of the best E1s in Britain?? I'm not so sure... Next up Dave was keen for Star Gate E3 5c, despite the wet start and getting lost, Dave hung in there with endurance rival to Nigerian marathon runners and made it to the top. On second I found the fact that the route traversed over the sea and a fall would leave me in space with just one prussik (I leant one to Ballsford... chopper), I took a couple of hangs on some gear to keep the pump at a minimum. A brilliant route and an awesome effort by Dave. On account of the Grease and the big intimidating nature of the Kitchen - I never have liked cooking or washing up! - we busted out and onto St Govan's.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After a quick coke and a coffee to refuel we headed to the crag and Dave convinced me to get on Poisoned Arrow E3/4 6a. I racked up, we dropped in and watched some old dude cruise it on second! Up I went but as I moved into the crux sequence it became apparent that this was going to be a big ask. I got some kit in as high as I could and reversed back to the ledge at the beginning of the difficulties. Back up and I managed another move or two, got some more gear in but was already pumping out! This really knocked me mentally as I still had a good way to go before it eased and I was worried I wouldn't be able to even get the kit in. I fell/slumped, put some gear up higher and tried to make some more moves but fell again. I still felt knackered and Dave offered to have a go. A few falls later and he was at the top of the crag, luckily this route was alot straighter so I could just give it my all until I fell, perfect training. Even on second I still fell off a few times proving either I really was knackered or that I'm not even good enough to second Pembroke E4 at the moment. On getting to the top of the crag we agreed it was time to call it a day, you need to be climbing fit to do a lot of routes at Pembroke for sure. We went home and ate, A LOT but it was good wholesome food and it allowed me to feel semi-ok the next day.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Luckily the Friday was only going to be a short day, so we headed to Carreg-y-Barcud, a nice big slab next to the sea. Once again I was on lead first and I chose the Barcud classic Sinecure E1 5b to start. It was a nice, with good moves, though again maybe not as good as I expected but maybe that's because I associate quality with achievement... Next up Morsey fancied trying to finally lead Mean Feat, an E5 6a he has toproped a number of times over a number of years. After another top-rope session the lead was on and I abbed in. Looking a bit shakey, he got up to good gear, unfortunately getting into the crux he didn't feel secure so came down. He soloed out of the crag by an easy corner and I seconded out removing his gear. The climbing was great, thin, steep slab climbing with a lot of looong moves. After sorting the gear we left and I headed home.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">An absolutely brilliant week of climbing, I did some amazing routes, both that I have wanted to experience for a while and a few I hadn't considered myself ready for. I think it helped me build a bit of fitness back up but also let me gauge my current standard, I feel like I am as bold and technical as I ever have been, but am slightly lacking the standard of fitness I had earlier in the year, and I can bloody well jam now! I know that the thing I need to work on most whilst I have less intense period of climbing during August is my fitness. Luckily South Devon has some cracking European style sport venues!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Venga!</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-69980437025160065502011-08-08T13:35:00.000-07:002011-11-07T06:56:55.216-08:00GREAT British Cragging: Part I<div style="text-align: justify;">No sooner was I back from Squamish but I was off to sunny West Penwith, Cornwall, with Jess, Mark, Tom and Flo (Not her again!). A quick overnight stop at mine and we arrived at Sennen!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Some brilliant routes were done; Monday Face VS 4c, Hayloft VS 4c - brilliant varied climbing finished by a good ol' thrutch, and The Arete VS 4b and oh-so-juggy. Next up after a rainy start was Carn Barra, a crag that had caught my eye a while ago with the sustained Glass Arete. Keen to test my fitness and climbing ability were up to scratch on the opposite style to crack climbing, I abbed down and jumped on! The greasy start immediately turned the pump on as did the fact I couldn't reach a good wire placement... I made do with what I could and got onto the arete proper. After a few moves up I was still feeling a bit up-tight and intimidated. All of a sudden a double-slap move up the arete smacked me in the face and a smile spread from cheek to cheek! What a move! Feeling a bit more in the groove I moved up between good rests and gear. Eventually I found myself at the wide break below the final arete section... after placing a load of kit I set about trying to work out the moves eventually just managing a stiff pull out and into a beautiful layback... I still had it E3!! Looking back it was soft for E3 but fairly sustained, more so than I would expect to get on an E2 without being able to slot in gear whenever I wanted, whereas on Glass Arete although there was plenty of gear, you had to leave it behind on some sections and forge on to the next piece. A low in the grade E3 but what does it matter, the climbing is superb! The rest of the day was spent seconding mark on a VS and HS.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Next up was Bosigran, me and Jess headed down to do Ding a VS carving straight up through an overhang and grooves in 2 pitches. I completely lose sight of where I am going once I finish the first pitch and end up belaying two thirds through the second! Still a nice little bit of climbing and totally possible to do in a one-er if you look after your ropes. After lazing around on a ledge in the sun by the sea we headed up to Anvil Chorus another VS 4c with a meaty 3rd pitch up a layback corner followed by an awesome traverse and grovel onto a ledge! Anvil Chorus is a brilliant top-end VS that has a good amount of variation between its pitches... a must do! On our final day, we headed to Chair Ladder and South Face Direct, yet another VS 4c. A team ascent was made by Mark, Jess and myself. SFD is a brilliant route and had some lovely jams ;-)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Heading back to Devon, Jess and I spent much of the rest of the week and a half lazing around eating chocolate, though two trips to the beach were made, and I managed to get a couple of cheeky wall sessions in! Eventually it was time for Jess to go home, so selflessly, I escorted her home and jumped onto a train for North Wales!!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The first day of the trip was designed to break me down and fully prevent me from climbing anything hard for the rest of the trip... A crack team of Yorkshire crushers (Steve Ramsden and Billy Lawrence) recruited me for a boulder sesh at Angel Bay on the Little Orme. Having never been there the offer was snapped up and a late start was planned! First we got lost, then we arrived... HEAVILY dissapointed, however dear reader this is a lesson for you: never judge a bouldering area by its cover and first few problems. We decided that warming up on a slightly highball set of V2s would be agreeable, and adding to this a V3 we found the problems were alright but nothing to rave about... Aha Letterbox Wall, Al said this was good and he only likes good problems! However it turned out to be either rediculously easy using the block to start on with hands or desperate if you sat on it! We moved on to Ren-Arete the V5 next to it, Steve crushed it, but me and Billy found it a little bit more tricky... I found that to do one of the moves my feet had to leave the block and I wasn't strong enough to do it footless and not good enough to get a heel on... Balls! Steve turned his attention to The Limpet, a highball V6 around the corner while Billy rested... this looked more my style! Crimpy wall climbing! Or not... being a midget thwarted me once again, however this is not an excuse but not only was I too midget-ey, I was also too weak! Billy managed to get Ren-Arete and then almost The Limpet too... The boy is strong!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After laughing at some sea kayakers stacking it onto the beach, we moved on to Chaos Emerald Crack the thrutchiest boulder problem I have ever undertaken. The perfectly smooth rock was formed into an overhanging layback flake with a high top-out. Every muscle was required to keep the pressure from your feet constant as you moved your hands higher and higher. Every one seemed to have a different method each time, I almost got up it before the other two but slapped to nothing and plummeted back to earth! However I knew the sequence now and after Billy and Steve dispatched it I went for glory and tussled my way upwards! After failing miserably on a V4 arete with no feet, that was flashed by Billy and Steve, I was all but ready to go. Steve did a nice looking problem called Pocket Wall, V4 again, but this one had feet and small crimpy, pockety holds! Having seen Steve do all the moves I managed to pull a flash out the bag! We were all feeling it by now, and wanting to remain (relatively) fresh for the rest of the week, I took my boots off and chilled whilst Billy and Steve had a last couple of goes.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Once again, the day dawned bright and warm, after another chilled start Max, Chris, Mason and I headed off to Cwm Idwal, and up to the Suicide Walls area. Mason had a new line cleaned and chalked and was hungry for the send, despite not feeling overly psyched for anything up there, I still hadn't done Suicide Wall Route 1 yet, which is a fairly historic line as it was climbed in 1945!! This was an incredible achievement at the time as at E2 5c it has technical moves on it, and is bold even with modern protection, but to climb it in '45 would have been exceptionally bold.... RESPECT! The ascent went without too much drama, I didn't place any gear up to the mid-height ledge to allow Mason a top-rope on the crux of his new route. Then the top section wasn't too bad and there were runners here and there. I abbed down and Mason began cleaning the rest of the line and practising the crux a few more times. Once on the ground he racked up, tied on and set off, placing the first runner he committed to the crux and floated his way up to the mid-height ledge. Suddenly, it began to rain, luckily it never got too heavy and then stopped after a while, allowing Mason to climb the top half of his route, having seen the holds but not practised the moves, he was surprised at the amenity of this climbing. Boom! A new route, Decomposed E6 6b, it really is excellent on second I found the bottom crux tricky but do-able with some info from Alex. The top wall fully blew me away, absolutely amazing climbing, with technical moves but regular good holds and feet to allow you to chill out and savour the movement.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here is the V12 report: <a href="http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/07/29/decomposed-e6-6b-suicide-wall/">http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/07/29/decomposed-e6-6b-suicide-wall/</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Abbing back down we had time for one route, and my lead, with Chris and Max going for Suicide Groove, E1 I was left with Capital Punishment E3 5c or nothing... but, I was scared knowing full well that everyone on UKC had voted E4 for this one, coupled with Suicide Wall's lack of good gear. I got on with it and soon found myself with a good micro-wire and the first run-out beckoning. All I could think about was getting too far and falling off, but with Mason's encouragement I moved up the first slab with an irreversible move to get stood on a good finger-ledge. After a few more tricky moves, I was at a good hold and fiddling in 2 RPs. Not 100% confident they would hold I moved up into the crux, finding it difficult I stepped back down and tried to re-assess the moves. "Nope, only one way to do it matey, you've gotta stretch and pray that hold is good", 'OK, right come on then Dunc turn it on' going for it I went for the hold, heart in mouth, "Phew it's good enough!" As the world rushes back, I quickly clip the threads and take a deep breath. Next up was the best part of the route lovely juggy pockets up a vertical wall. The rest of the route went without drama and I topped out with a woop of joy! Without a doubt my hardest route this year, and probably harder than the two E4s I did last year, certainly more dangerous on the hard bits...</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-83282281713020628782011-07-29T16:21:00.000-07:002011-11-07T06:58:00.520-08:00Squamish Select<div style="text-align: justify;">OK, so I've not posted for ages AND I've been back from Squamish and been on TWO climbing trips in the UK!!! In this post I'll do a bit of a Squamish write-up and then crack on with UK blogging when I begin revision tomorrow...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">30 days, 110 pitches of climbing, 100's of metres of cracks and a good dose of rain. Trip outcome: Success all round!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The main aim of the trip had been to learn to hand jam and not rely on face holds of any kind whilst doing so, I started out struggling on 5.9's (HVS), even falling off one, St. Vitus' Dance! I then moved on to falling off 5.10b (bottom-end E2). This, I feel is Squamish's sandbag grade, with routes such as Seasoned in the Sun, Centrefold, Caboose, and Hand Jive all being harder than many 10c's I did. In fact I fell off all of the above except Seasoned in the Sun, which I feel was the hardest pure crack I climbed, with steep, thin hands jamming with no foot holds outside the crack, with it being to thin to jam with your feet! Again I found myself finding a normal-width handjam as good as a jug!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">On the routes front, the top ten include (in order of granite-ey goodness):</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">1. The Angel's Crest 5.10b - an amazing adventure and the biggest route I have done to date, almost every pitch is 3 stars!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">2. The Exasporator 5.10c - wanted to do it as soon as I saw it, way before I even thought about going to Squamish.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">3. Squamish Buttress 5.10c - the first route to the top of the Chief, the crux pitch is an amazing corner very reminiscent of the Grasper at Bwlch y Moch.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">4. Peasent's Route 5.10c - Done on my last day in Squamish with Loz, a fellow West Country bey! Brilliant climbing despite being soaking wet!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">5. Hand Jive 5.10b - Got pretty shut-down by this one... fell off the start when I climbed it the wrong way, managed to do the vertical hand-crack fine until a fall on the last hard move to the chains! A good spanking!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">6. Seasoned in the Sun 5.10b - My finest moment of crack climbing, I felt like a real crack climber after this!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">7. Karen's Math 5.10a - An amazing varied pitch at the top of the Apron; steep crack, massive layback flake then a tricky face traverse to finish... I felt like Leo Houlding!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">8. Flying Circus 5.10a - Just brilliant finger-locks up a slabby wall, the first hard crack I did in Squamish!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">9. St. Vitus' Dance 5.9 - A brilliant route up the Apron with 3 contrasting 5.9 pitches in a row!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">10. Banana Peel 5.7 - Me and Flo ran up this one afternoon, just so much friction slab fun!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I also did some awesome bouldering and sport climbing, highlights of these include 3 classic V4s in an afternoon; Superfly, Easy in an Easy Chair and Sloppy Poppy. The bouldering in Squamish is awesome, and I wish I had done more, but it felt like a cop-out when the Chief just screams to be climbed!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">On the Sport climbing front the highlights have to be; Dark Don't Lie 5.11a (6b+) A brilliant flowing route that would be an amazing E3 with trad gear! The Neutered Bovine, 5.11c (6c+) 1st Redpoint as the first route of the day, super-powerful but brilliant moves! Face the Music, 5.12a (7a+) Didn't get it clean, but a brilliant crux sequence!! Cheakamus Canyon was great when the rain fell as it stayed dry, the only problem was getting there, however I would have loved to get to the Petrifying Wall at Murrin Park, but only went there one evening for a bear (beaver) hunt with Will Stanhope... Yep the guy who broke the Parthian flake!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This nicely brings us on to the next highlight of the trip.... THE BEAR IN CAMP!!!! Unfortunately there is no photographic evidence, as one grey morning, Heather got out the tent, I decided to have a bit of a lie-in, as I'm a lazy bugger! Until suddenly Heather ran back shouting "If you want to see a bear come quick!" Quickly, I dressed and ran out of the tent to find a bear trying to get into the bear boxes. Suddenly it turned and began to walk in our direction... luckily it was small and there were a lot of us! Eventually it left but what an amazing thing to see!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Despite having an amazing trip there are a few hints and tips for Squamish:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">1. Don't be intimidated by the Chief, by the time I left I had completely changed my outlook towards it and given another week or two would have got on the Grand Wall.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">2. Squamish is a prime place to learn how to jam and crack climb, HOWEVER you will have a much more productive trip if you know how to jam and crack climb and will be able to get on harder routes!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">3. Go to Zephyr's Cafe and have a Chicken and Avacado Burger EVERY rest day... it makes you stronger.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">4. Only wash ONCE a week in the Rec. Centre, and spend as much time as possible dicking around on the toys the swimming pool has i.e monkey bars (perfect for climbers!), Tarzan swing (perfect for belly-flopping) also watch the rain fall from the toasty warm jacuzzi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">5. Try not to forget your swimming trunks, especially on the day(s) you were wearing Union Jack boxer shorts... Laughter from your 'friend' and the lifeguards echoes around the swimming pool.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">6. Buy a pair of crack-climbing shoes. These must allow your toes to be pretty much flat, not like face climbing shoes. They must also be made from something durable.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">7. If you can afford it, get a car/van/truck... it means you can drive to dry climbing places/fun non-dry weather dependant places, and sleep on something that isn't gravel... yes, yes I know I should buy a thermarest... they just seem a little gay!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">8. Go and get used to finding routes at Tremadog... Squamish is just Tremadog on crack!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">9. Don't get stressed, just roll with whatever happens.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">10. Enjoy it! Try and tick as many of the 'Ultimate Squamish Routes' as possible :-)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">11. Go with a girl who will be fancied by Will Stanhope, he'll do anything to win favour and you might meet Sonnie Trotter... a proper legend! In fairness, it was pretty cool hanging out with these guys, and we got lifts to places! But seriously now... never go on a Bear hunt with Stanhope... he'll be secretly hunting for Beaver!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">All in all, we had an awesome trip, and although some face climbing fitness was lost, a completely new set of skills were developed, going from barely being able to jam to feeling confident at relatively steep pure cracks, without tape. Hopefully, this will eventually improve my UK rock-climbing! Squamish is a really cool place, I would whole-heartedly recommend it as a first North American venue, as I hear the grades in places such as Yosemite are a bit stiff, they seem fair in Squamish.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Get on it!</div>Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-63066575736595437792011-06-23T12:53:00.000-07:002011-06-23T12:53:47.386-07:00Squamish Update...Just a brief one here, had a really good couple of weeks here so far, done loads of awesome routes including Hairpin 5.10a, Karen's Math 5.10a, Slap and Tickle 5.10b, Paul's Crack 5.10a, Squamish Buttress 5.10c (PUMPY!), and Angel's Crest 14-pitch 5.10b/c yesterday! even topped out on the crest with enough time to go bouldering! Looks like the rain is set in for afew days so unsure of what to do, but should get better 5 days before we leave!!! Could be an intense 5 days!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
See y'all soon, peace out.Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-1148179940957062272011-06-11T11:59:00.000-07:002011-06-11T11:59:05.170-07:00Karate Kid and the Canadian Crack Addiction...Last time I psoted, I was about to head up Helvellyn to sell Tea, Coffee and Bacon butties to unwitting punters at the top of the Mountain. It was a lucrative couple of days seeing a haul of 400 squid each after expenses... I bought a pair of trainers for squamish and headed to Liverpool to meet Jess and Heather, after a meal in the Egg, we headed back to chill at Heather's house. A teary goodbye to Jess and a hurried pack, and it was 3 hours till we had to leave for the airport. A short flight to London and we are off to Vancouver, witht he pressing issue of whether to try and sleep or to take advantage of the free movies... free movies it is. Upon landing in Vancouver we are interrogated by border control about how we know each other and how much money we have... a skytrain into the centre and we decide to go straight to Squamish rather than chill in a hostel, in the bus station we meet two Canadians who are heading out to boulder for the summer, Liam and Doug. <br />
<br />
We arrive at Squamish and all I can see is the Chief rearing up above me... holy shiiit! That thing is BIG! the rest of the day I am too tired to do anything and all I can think about is the Chief... intimidated is a word you could use to describe the feelings going through my head... We head to bed early as we have been up for over 24 hours and are knackered.<br />
<br />
The next day we went and got food and then headed out to the Smoke Bluffs to try our hand at crack climbing. We crush an unknown 5.7 and find that taping your hands makes a big difference, then a 5.9 is cruised, feeling cocky I get on a 5.10b, but the gear is poor, I make do with the best I can and sketch my way through to jams and a cruise to the top, after finishing with a 5.7 we head back to the camp-site.<br />
<br />
Thursday dawns and we head to the Upper Malamute, a sort of sea cliff crag in which you have to ab in. Heather cruises a 5.8 layback corner, which means I get the lead on a 5 star 5.8+, High Mountain Woody. A tricky section off the ground leads to stead climbing and regular rests, I'm not entirely convinced its 5 star but it was awesome nonetheless. We head back for lunch and then head back to the Smoke Bluffs, we both crush an awkward 5.8, the Quarryman, and then Heather crushes Penny Lane, a tricky 5.9. Walking on to Neat and Cool crag, Flying Circus, a just off-vertical fingercrack at 5.10a catches my eye. TThe guide says it's polished from topropers, and the people before us have just toproped it, hmmm, I go for it anyway, and feel confident with sinker finger-locks and not terrible feet either. Suddenly, the fingerlocks open up and the feet diminish, a foot slips, but I manage to keep it together, make another move and I'm inot jugs and real footholds. The best route of the trip so far!!!<br />
<br />
Friday is overcast again, but we planned to go and do our first Squamish multipitch today and the weather isn't bad enough to not do this. 'Hiking' (as the Canadians say) out to the Apron, we choose St. Victus; Dance, a 6 pitch 5.9. The first 2 pitches are steady, a bit of rock climbing, and then pullin on trees. The third pitch, only rated 5.8 is a massive 50m crack that widens as it gets steeper. I gear up ready for the fight and go at it, karate-chopping jams and fist jams in, whilst torquing my feet into the crack... Suddenly, it starts drizzling, I push on and squirm up the final offwidth to the belay ledge...phew!!! Florence's next pitch is a super cool 5.9 pitch that involves switching crack systems and then a wide crack to finish. Now the final hard pitch, involving an overhanging section of crack!! I go up, fix some gear and throw a fist jam in, pulling up, I stuggle to torque my feet in as the rope is in the way, first fall of the trip... taken. I lower down to the slab at the bottom, and engineer the rope so it runs deep in the crack, go again, and manage to haul myself over the top! It was only a body and a half length of crack but it was hard!, I carry on up to the belay and we top out, and walk back to camp.<br />
<br />
I still feel like I have a long way to go before I feel totally comfortable at Jamming, and cracks, and long multipitches here, but hey we have had 3 days climbing and have still done some fairly hard stuff (for us).<br />
<br />
Stay tuned...Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6709864207779403977.post-25126319358932562192011-06-03T02:54:00.000-07:002011-06-03T02:54:08.605-07:00Freeeedooom!!!!Ok, so this time last week I had finished my exams but was desperately trying to finish my dissertation project proposal for 5:00pm... Thankfully, I finished it on time and plans were made to go climbing at Gogarth the next day. However, on awaking to heavy rain we decided to chill out and watched Shutter Island, a mega spinney film about a high-security mental institute for the criminally insane!! After this we went and got lunch at the Blue Sky cafe in Bangor, which, whilst expensive is pretty tasty!! Finally it was time to climb, but with threats of rain later on in the afternoon at gogarth, we headed to the slate quarries.<br />
<br />
I used to go to the slate quarries a lot in my first year at uni, it was a place I felt comfortable... big slabs of smooth rock, big run-outs, but simply a case of trusting your feet and standing up until you were at the top or the next piece of gear, I even managed to go from onsighting E1's to onsighting 2 E4's on slate during first year, and so it became sort of a comfortable place to go. However, in almost every other aspect of my climbing I could only get up E2's, highlighting a major specialism in slabs and weakness everywhere else. Due to this and a couple of trips to Lower Sharpnose in North Devon and getting completely shutdown by the sustained vertical wall climbing, I made a conscious decision to get better at steeper rock, as after all that inspires me most... Despite my heavy addiction to the slate, I never got round to doing Fool's Gold, E1 5c. So on arrival at Bus Stop Quarry, I headed straight for it...<br />
<br />
BAM!! "Now then Mr Duncan, where have you been all this time?" the slate teased as I grappled with the first easy moves. "Just away, you know on other rock-types, steeper angles, trying to become a more rounded climber" I reply balancing to get some gear in as high as I can for the crux sequence. "But we used to be such good friends, why should I let you up this when you have neglected me?" The slate angers, I misread a hold sequence, going for a poor slopey crimp, my right foot swinging round to the left to keep my centre of gravity constant. "Yes why should I indeed... hahahahaha!" Collecting myself, there is only one way to do the next move, use a small, polished foothold. I'm wearing brand new Anasazi whites and havn't got the sensitivity for polish, I commit, slap for the ledge and it's ok, just the odd tricky move in the upper crack. Wow, nearly spat off by something I would have walked up last year... Florence cruises up behind me, but team psyche is low, we have all spent a lot of time in the quarries and have almost run out of things to do in North Wales Rock.<br />
<br />
But Mikey Goldthorp is back up for a couple of days, and is keen to go see Mason at the Indy on his first day! It was awesome to see Mikey, he is as positive as ever and strong as an ox, flashing a V4 I can't even touch, campusing in complete control so as not to fall and hurt his ankle... I have another burn at the now regraded full traverse which goes at Fr7a+ though I have heard people talk about 7b/+. I managed to redpoint this on one of the many Indy trips during exams, but never repeated it.<br />
<br />
Sunday was a rest day but also the day Jess left Bangor for the summer so I helped her pack and said goodbye :( unsure of whether we would see each other again before I left for Squamish.<br />
<br />
Monday saw more rain in the morning but team psyche was high for Gogarth and after a (un)healthy sized fry up, a massive team headed out; Me and Jez, Mark and Tom, Florence and Livvers, and Fingers and Lyndsay! On getting to the Main Cliff racking up spot, I noticed something was different from the other times I had been to Main Cliff, there were LOADS of rucksacks... I had my sights set firmly on Stimulator, a 2 pitch E3 5c to the left of a classic and strenuous E1, Emulator. The bold 5c starting groove felt greasy, but the holds were just positive enough for me to chalk up and go for it, soon reaching good holds and the top of the pitch. Unsure of whether to carry on and link the 2 pitches together, I belayed so I could keep an eye on Jez. After a good effort trying his best, he managed to haul himself up the pitch more than a bit boxed. Feeling guilty for the sand bag, I set off on the 5b 2nd pitch, which starts with a bold teeter around an arete until good finger ledges are gained. A party having a slight epic on Emulator were just starting the '2nd' pitch, and I tried to offer words of encouragement. The last piece of the route is a brilliant little handcrack, so I became quite gripped then! Suddenly, I realised a problem, the 2 routes share a topout sequence. Seeing the other guy flapping, I let him go first though suddenly regret it, he is right above me and his feet are sketching, I am on 2 hand-jams, a foot-jam and a small edge. I place a cam inbetween my hands and hope he doesn't fall off. He doesn't and I race to the top, sharing belay anchors we chat as we bring our second's up.<br />
<br />
The next day a crack team of crushers (Mason, Steve Ramsden, and Jake Cook) recruit me for a hit on Clogwyn Yr Eryr, in the Crafnant Valley. This esoteric little crag is an absolute gem, though known for having stout E2's! After yesterday's exploits I feel tired, but on arriving at the crag, I take a look at Astoroth, E2 5c in NWR but hinted at harder on UKC... I gear up and prepare for a battle... going up into the 2nd groove is tricky and it keeps coming until a small sloping shelp is reached below the final quarrman-esque groove. I place some high gear, but am tired from the awkward placement and retreat to the ledge. Looking up I see a peg on the right wall, where I am heading. Upwards, I squirm, back and footing, using every part of my body to stay in contact with the rock. I stretch, clip the peg, a disco leg rising in my right leg threatening to part me from the rock. Bridging out over 20 metres of space I see the peg, rotting, and sticking out further than it should, my brain goes back into red alert, the next peg is crap too, damn! I'm scared now, tiring, I wiggle a wire in above the pegs clip it and fight on to the top, shaking all over as I clip the belay! What a route!! Everybody else does it and consensus says E3 6a... wow what a battle, what a route! Jake crushes an E5 6b but I can't even get off the ground... the sun has gone so we all opt for a boulder in the Ogwen on the way home... a fine couple of day's cragging if you ask me, and my last in North Wales for a while.<br />
<br />
I headed to the lakes on Wednesday and on Thursday me and Bubbles went cragging in Borrowdale. We headed to Black Crag, the home of Prana E3 5c, but after a warm-up solo of Troutdale Pinnacle, a brilliant Severe, we find it wet in its bottom half. Not wishing to fight a stream we opted for Raindrop, an E1 5b very reminiscent of overlapping wall on Carreg Wasted in the Pass. Afterwards, we head to Quayfoot buttress and Bubbles leads Crypt Direct, a tricky and bold E1. We are going to be selling Bacon Butties, Tea and Coffee on the top of Helvellyn this weekend, and then I am off to Squamish on Tuesday! <br />
<br />
I'll try and keep blogging whilst I'm in Squamish, so keep an eye out!Dunchttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01331856930066094459noreply@blogger.com0